CB450 K7 "Espresso Love"

Dude, check out my brake linkage here:

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7401.60

It uses the stock brake arm and rod, is a "pull" so no long, flexy bends, and is cheap. Plus, you have a welder (I don't) so you can mount a brake arm properly.
 
borzwazie said:
Dude, check out my brake linkage here:

http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7401.60

It uses the stock brake arm and rod, is a "pull" so no long, flexy bends, and is cheap. Plus, you have a welder (I don't) so you can mount a brake arm properly.
Click to expand...

Thanks man. Yeah, that's pretty much what I'm thinking of doing. I also like Hancock's brake lever, but I think yours will be easier to set up with the return spring, lever stop and brake light switch.

Thanks, CC
 
You rotated the drum arm and it still grabbed when in movement? Well, what I would do then is measure the two arm lengths from center of the pivot to the center of the linkage barrel/pivot point. I think you'll find that they are really different in length and need to be closer to equal if at all possible. You also may just have the freeplay dialed in too tight (at the drum).....they need a bit of room to account for expansion and contraction with heat as well as linkage irregularities.

Can you snap another pic with the drum arm as it is now?
 
That's a great lil spray booth you had setup there. That gives me a great idea on how to set mine up when I get to that stage.
 
Swagger said:
You rotated the drum arm and it still grabbed when in movement? Well, what I would do then is measure the two arm lengths from center of the pivot to the center of the linkage barrel/pivot point. I think you'll find that they are really different in length and need to be closer to equal if at all possible. You also may just have the freeplay dialed in too tight (at the drum).....they need a bit of room to account for expansion and contraction with heat as well as linkage irregularities.

Can you snap another pic with the drum arm as it is now?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I may have been even worse with the brake arm down. I think the best thing to do at this point is abandon my design and fab up something like Herm's or Hancock's.

Anybody need a brake lever for a 450 hardtail with rearsets? :)

CC
 
561design said:
That's a great lil spray booth you had setup there. That gives me a great idea on how to set mine up when I get to that stage.
Click to expand...

I worked out pretty well. I sprayed the frame on a wet, rainy day and didn't get any crap in the paint. It was dry and sunny when I sprayed the tank and seat, so some stuff was blowing around in the air and I got a little trash in the paint but no too bad.

CC
 
goodfornothing said:
Not sure if this was mentioned in your thread, but what kind of welder are you using?
Click to expand...

It's a 115V flux core wire welder, made by Century, borrowed from my dad.

CC
 
Here's some pictures of the tank and seat after painting.

Still in the "paint booth" after spraying:
DSC01503.jpg


DSC01502.jpg


And a few in the sunlight (the colors are probably a little more true to life in the booth):
DSC01522.jpg


DSC01523.jpg


DSC01525.jpg


And the seat in the booth:
DSC01499.jpg


DSC01495.jpg


And in the sun:
DSC01518.jpg


Thanks for looking,

CC
 
Nice work CC! I just read your entire thread from begining to end and it's impressive to say the least. I say don't give up on that brake set up just yet. Down the road, having your very own brake set up will add to the sweetness of the build. I know you can figure something out. Anyway, great job on everything. Looks sick!
 
Oh by the way, I'm interested in that tank (the one that came on the bike) if you want to sell????
 
Thanks for all the kind words everyone. It's encouraging to get positive comments from some of the folks on the forum who have such great builds.

Here's some pics of my refurbished guages, which turned out better than I expected. The pics look OK, but they look even better in person.

"COCKPIT" BEFORE:
DSC00198.jpg


AND AFTER:
DSC01761.jpg


I scanned the original guage faces into AutoCAD, and used them as a template to create the new clean and simple face design. The new faces were printed onto glossy photo paper and glued to the face plates with 3M super 77 contact cement. Then I sprayed several coats of clear Krylon on the faces. The needles were painted with good ol' Testor's model paint and a small brush.

Not bad lookin', if I do say so myself.

Meanwhile, I've been busy wiring. Hopefully in another days work and the electrics will be all sorted out.

CC
 
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