biker_reject
Over 1,000 Posts
Awesome! Good to know. Thanks for the tip.
cb450 rearsets done on the cheap!
- Thread starter Herm21
- Start date
cheap? you want cheap, you say?
I got yer cheap CB450 'sets right here:
get a pair of thru-bolt rearsets (like early 2k gsxr, or fzr, or even a hacked up set of tarozzis, which I got for the price of shipping):
Cut two pieces of 1/4" aluminum into triangles (2 per side, total of 4), of the right size to fit in the rear passenger mount holes:
I drilled a hole through the centers of each, a little trimming and polishing, and fit one on each side of the passenger mounts:
Now, my rearsets happened to come with shifter linkage, but not brake linkage. So:
I made the turnbuckles myself from steel bar stock and an angle grinder. I drilled and tapped a hole in the ends for the rod to thread into. They look a little rough right now, but I'm gonna clean them up on a belt sander.
The "arm" the rod attaches to is simply a bent piece of 3/16ths steel, ground into shape. It's bolted to the original brake pedal arm, and bent to clear the pivot. I cut the original pedal off up to the brake switch spring mount so I can keep my rear brake switch, which simplifies things a lot.
the result:
EDIT:
I'd like to add that the threaded rod I used for the brake linkage is all-thread, with a sheath of aluminum tubing to add rigidity as well as looks. I can hang from the thing (and I'm not light!), plus I hit the other linkages with a hammer to test them. they passed ;D
I got yer cheap CB450 'sets right here:
get a pair of thru-bolt rearsets (like early 2k gsxr, or fzr, or even a hacked up set of tarozzis, which I got for the price of shipping):
Cut two pieces of 1/4" aluminum into triangles (2 per side, total of 4), of the right size to fit in the rear passenger mount holes:
I drilled a hole through the centers of each, a little trimming and polishing, and fit one on each side of the passenger mounts:
Now, my rearsets happened to come with shifter linkage, but not brake linkage. So:
I made the turnbuckles myself from steel bar stock and an angle grinder. I drilled and tapped a hole in the ends for the rod to thread into. They look a little rough right now, but I'm gonna clean them up on a belt sander.
The "arm" the rod attaches to is simply a bent piece of 3/16ths steel, ground into shape. It's bolted to the original brake pedal arm, and bent to clear the pivot. I cut the original pedal off up to the brake switch spring mount so I can keep my rear brake switch, which simplifies things a lot.
the result:
EDIT:
I'd like to add that the threaded rod I used for the brake linkage is all-thread, with a sheath of aluminum tubing to add rigidity as well as looks. I can hang from the thing (and I'm not light!), plus I hit the other linkages with a hammer to test them. they passed ;D
biker_reject
Over 1,000 Posts
You sir, rock.
jonescafe72
Been Around the Block
That is brilliant! I tried like crazy to mount mine, and finally gave up. What piece are you using for your rear brake linkage?
goodfornothing
Spicey!
He said he used all threaded rod and he fabbed the linkages/turnbuckle out of aluminum.
The turnbuckles are made of steel bar stock I bought at the hardware store (the local place loves me, I've bought enough stainless bolts there to put their kids thru college).
The brake arm itself is just flat steel that I bent into shape after heating it with a propane torch - red hot metal is lots easier to bend. It's just a flat "z" bend, and bolted onto the stock brake pedal arm.
The brake arm itself is just flat steel that I bent into shape after heating it with a propane torch - red hot metal is lots easier to bend. It's just a flat "z" bend, and bolted onto the stock brake pedal arm.
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goodfornothing
Spicey!
That's what I plan to do on my old brake arm. Would aluminum work? Or would it not hold up?
I would use steel if I were you - be safe! Use steel as thick as the original lever arm (the one the brake rod attaches to). If you heat it with a torch it's easy to bend in a vise.
Honestly, it would be better if you welded an arm on to the pivot tube, I just didn't have access to a welder.
Honestly, it would be better if you welded an arm on to the pivot tube, I just didn't have access to a welder.
Those little plates are sweet. Do you have approximate dimensions for those? My buddy in the machine shop here at work said he's got the material to make those for me, but if I can save some time so I don't have to go home and measure them that'd be great! I'd also need the hole dimension.
Thanks!
Thanks!
borzwazie said:cheap? you want cheap, you say?
I got yer cheap CB450 'sets right here:
get a pair of thru-bolt rearsets (like early 2k gsxr, or fzr, or even a hacked up set of tarozzis, which I got for the price of shipping):
Cut two pieces of 1/4" aluminum into triangles (2 per side, total of 4), of the right size to fit in the rear passenger mount holes:
I drilled a hole through the centers of each, a little trimming and polishing, and fit one on each side of the passenger mounts:
Now, my rearsets happened to come with shifter linkage, but not brake linkage. So:
I made the turnbuckles myself from steel bar stock and an angle grinder. I drilled and tapped a hole in the ends for the rod to thread into. They look a little rough right now, but I'm gonna clean them up on a belt sander.
The "arm" the rod attaches to is simply a bent piece of 3/16ths steel, ground into shape. It's bolted to the original brake pedal arm, and bent to clear the pivot. I cut the original pedal off up to the brake switch spring mount so I can keep my rear brake switch, which simplifies things a lot.
the result:
EDIT:
I'd like to add that the threaded rod I used for the brake linkage is all-thread, with a sheath of aluminum tubing to add rigidity as well as looks. I can hang from the thing (and I'm not light!), plus I hit the other linkages with a hammer to test them. they passed ;D
Muddy4DSM said:
Bump this - anyone got an idea of dimensions? Or is anyone home today not doing anything and want to get a ballpark measurement for what these plates would need to be?
Thanks!
Herm21
Been Around the Block
I can try and you get those dimensions tonight.
One thing to consider when making those plates is the angle of the fixed passenger mounts, they are not lined up to the frame and kick out some. So if you cut those "triangle" pieces without accounting for that angle, your foot pegs will mount pointing into the front of bike, which looks and feels a bit awkward in my opinion. If you have sander you can sand the inside of the pieces down on an angle to conform to the angle of the mounts... or if it doesn't bother, just ride around "pigeon toed".. :-\
One thing to consider when making those plates is the angle of the fixed passenger mounts, they are not lined up to the frame and kick out some. So if you cut those "triangle" pieces without accounting for that angle, your foot pegs will mount pointing into the front of bike, which looks and feels a bit awkward in my opinion. If you have sander you can sand the inside of the pieces down on an angle to conform to the angle of the mounts... or if it doesn't bother, just ride around "pigeon toed".. :-\
What's the harm in attaching them with flat metal and bending the bracket slightly to whatever angle you want it to be? It's only stamped metal, nothing welded. If they aren't exactly true with the angle of the frame, a little mechanical convincing should get them a lot closer!
bending the brackets in will cause them to hit the swingarm. there's not a lot of clearance.
honestly, I don't notice the angle at all when I'm on the bike. I only notice it when I'm looking down on the bike from the top.
you could "level out" the peg by cutting (with a dremel or some such) a relief into the plate at an angle (see attached)
Pretty easy but not necessary IMO.
EDIT: I didn't draw it, but you'd obviously need a relief on the back plate as well.
EDIT 2: You know, I've gone back and re-read this thread. One of the reasons I didn't do what Herm21 did is because I don't like drilling holes anywhere in my frame (or cutting bits off my frame, I've always been sorry when I did). I must say that his levers and pegs are a lot nicer-looking than what I have (for free, I can't bitch) - a combination of the two would make a pretty nice set of rearsets, and no need to cut or drill any frame parts... you could do all of it without any machine shop at all - just a handheld jigsaw w/metal blade, drill, and angle grinder.
honestly, I don't notice the angle at all when I'm on the bike. I only notice it when I'm looking down on the bike from the top.
you could "level out" the peg by cutting (with a dremel or some such) a relief into the plate at an angle (see attached)
Pretty easy but not necessary IMO.
EDIT: I didn't draw it, but you'd obviously need a relief on the back plate as well.
EDIT 2: You know, I've gone back and re-read this thread. One of the reasons I didn't do what Herm21 did is because I don't like drilling holes anywhere in my frame (or cutting bits off my frame, I've always been sorry when I did). I must say that his levers and pegs are a lot nicer-looking than what I have (for free, I can't bitch) - a combination of the two would make a pretty nice set of rearsets, and no need to cut or drill any frame parts... you could do all of it without any machine shop at all - just a handheld jigsaw w/metal blade, drill, and angle grinder.
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I am impressed each time somebody refuses to pay ridiculous prices for something as mechanically simple as rearsets. My hat's off to you on a job well done. I am getting a 450 to do a clubman conversion from Omar's. I just think the bike looks cool but I have more time than money and like to create things like rearsets myself. Have only one question. You said that you used a jigsaw to cut out the levers out of 1/4 inch plate aluminum. I'm interested in the tool you actually used. Hand jigsaw like a Bosch or a scrollsaw as in table mounted. Never done work like this so it's something new but not a problem as I have both.
Thanks,
Terry
Thanks,
Terry
djelliott
Real bikes are built in garages.
WOW! I just came up with this exact same idea the other day. Skateboard bearings and BMX pegs were the key to mine as well. Yours came out fantastic. Great job. I was just going to by these replacement pedals (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130352953249&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_4466wt_1002)for other rear sets and modify them to work with my design. You kind of upped the bar now though by making it all by yourself.
