CBX550-Brat/urban scrambler on a budget

lchris21 said:
some nice work going on. those wheels are wild.........how times have changed

top job on the seat :)

Thanx Chris, Once I've finalised the seat fitting and lock down I'll have it upholstered.

Wheels are what they are, can't afford to have spoked rims as I want to retain the CBX inboard discs. I'll be getting flack for running tracker/enduro tyres but I like the look and will never push their limits of adhesion.
 
Well, after a good amount of reading and thinking, I've decided not to dick with the shock mounts. Offering the CBR shock up and raising the top mount by 40mm would push the shock cap/mount into the airbox and make it slightly out of vertical angle alignment which might cause fouling/binding issues.

So, plan B will be instigated.

I sell Protech Shocks into the VW aircooled market and will have a one-off 2.25"ID 13 stage adjustable monoshock coil-over 'made to measure' with alloy billet endcaps and rose joints at 275mm (static length) with a suitable spring circa 350lb (tbc). The adjustable damping will be useful, but getting the static length and spring rate correct is key.



I figure 185kg bike and 90kg rider = 275kg or 600lbs. So a 55:45 ratio would need circa 350lb/6-7" coil...am I correct?

Any advice or experience of coil rates for a 185kg (dry) bike and 90kg rider would be useful please. I'll be talking to Protech to get their advice as well, so should know more of the spec next week. Coils can be swapped out relatively easily and cheaply, so no great shakes if I have to increase/decrease poundage.

I wanted to have the stock ride height if possible, unless there is an advantage to raising the rear a few mm without any detriment to the handling (despite the chunky/clunky tyres).

Oh yeah, fork gaiters arrived from Honkers and fit, yay!

Thanks for checking in chaps. HNY2016 to all :D
 
Small update, but progress as I have stripped out the fork triple tree to access the head bearings. Now, I think they've been changed as there is very little signs of wear n tear, but they look like pattern bearings. I have no problem with that, and would change them if there were marked signs of wear, but aside from the odd blemish everything is shiny and wear free.



I think I'll grease them up and be done :)

Painted up the fork mounts, and a few other bits I'd cleaned up recently.



Jobs to do:

Fill forks with oil
Paint fork legs
Fit gaiters
Install forks and front wheel/brakes...
..so I can roll it outside to clean the engine down properly. I don't fancy doing it in the garage as it'll be a bloody mess.
 
NoRiders said:
Well, after a good amount of reading and thinking, I've decided not to dick with the shock mounts. Offering the CBR shock up and raising the top mount by 40mm would push the shock cap/mount into the airbox and make it slightly out of vertical angle alignment which might cause fouling/binding issues.

So, plan B will be instigated.

I sell Protech Shocks into the VW aircooled market and will have a one-off 2.25"ID 13 stage adjustable monoshock coil-over 'made to measure' with alloy billet endcaps and rose joints at 275mm (static length) with a suitable spring circa 350lb (tbc). The adjustable damping will be useful, but getting the static length and spring rate correct is key.



I figure 185kg bike and 90kg rider = 275kg or 600lbs. So a 55:45 ratio would need circa 350lb/6-7" coil...am I correct?

Any advice or experience of coil rates for a 185kg (dry) bike and 90kg rider would be useful please. I'll be talking to Protech to get their advice as well, so should know more of the spec next week. Coils can be swapped out relatively easily and cheaply, so no great shakes if I have to increase/decrease poundage.

I wanted to have the stock ride height if possible, unless there is an advantage to raising the rear a few mm without any detriment to the handling (despite the chunky/clunky tyres).

Oh yeah, fork gaiters arrived from Honkers and fit, yay!

Thanks for checking in chaps. HNY2016 to all :D

Just off the phone to a bike shock specialist who have/sell Protech Shocks build dampers to their spec. Mike was very helpful and gave me the build spec he uses for CBX550s.

Length 285mm open (I'm raising it 10mm from stock)
13 stage damping adjustment
650lb-6" coil
Rose jointed billet alloy end caps - anodised in gold (hopefully)
10x40 & 10x50mm mount spacers.

Should look good and work well.

Here's a link to the UK motorcycle dealers webpage: http://shock-factory.co.uk/m-shocks-home.html
 
The cleaning continues......it'll get more interesting soon, I promise :)

Coils



...and NGK caps & leads.



I might change the leads but they're known to be OK and still look in good condition. A job for later maybe?

Taking in the alternator cover into club workshop to try and see what a wirewheel finish looks like, nt bothered about a high shine, a brushed finish would do nicely.

More anon.
 
That's the problem with plug leads - they can "look" OK !!!!!

They're so cheap [ or knit your own ], it's not worth taking a chance on.

Having been involved directly with the development of plug leads [ 8mm silicone Hi-Po jobbies ] - and done considerable testing with OEM units [ new and used ] - they would be my first item to change / replace.

A quick trawl of E-Bay will get you the Hi-Po silicone 8mm wire for something like £3.00 / metre !!

Here's some I developed for RAM [ BMW Kay series ]



 
I knew as I typed I'd be changing them......purchased this item last night:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121249613315?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Orange 8mm silicon leads. Thanks for your comment beachcobbler.

Bit more done tonight.





Generator cover and fork brace 'burnished' on the wire wheel and a few parts blacked....that'll do nicely :D
 
Torque about needing this:



£28 of your English pounds buys you a low torque 3/8" drive for all the important bolts/nuts on the build.

About time I owned one :D Do you?
 
This lovely little film popped up on FB, hope it copies and play OK.

Link: https://www.facebook.com/motoparadiso/videos/1634154753516510/
 
Love where you are going with this mate. Can't wait to see the finished product. Good work so far.
 
Thank you Weasel & RBR :D Compared to some projects on here, mine's a walk in the park....but it's all I have.

More bits arriving, some would say I'm an 'idiot' buying these LEDs ;)



Pleasantly surprised at how small these turned out to be. As the single speedo doesn't have any lights in it I needed some for the usual things: Ignition, Neutral, Indicators, Main beam so just need to find somewhere to mount them......hmmm..I have a plan.

Oh yeah, Bike Jumble this Saturday looking forward to a proper rummage.....specifically seeking a rear guard in alloy.

https://www.facebook.com/EGPEnterprises/?fref=ts

Thanks for checking in.
 
NoRiders said:
Thank you Weasel & RBR :D Compared to some projects on here, mine's a walk in the park....but it's all I have.

More bits arriving, some would say I'm an 'idiot' buying these LEDs ;)



Pleasantly surprised at how small these turned out to be. As the single speedo doesn't have any lights in it I needed some for the usual things: Ignition, Neutral, Indicators, Main beam so just need to find somewhere to mount them......hmmm..I have a plan.

Oh yeah, Bike Jumble this Saturday looking forward to a proper rummage.....specifically seeking a rear guard in alloy.

https://www.facebook.com/EGPEnterprises/?fref=ts

Thanks for checking in.

As they're LEDs I might have to put a resistor in the ignition line so the alt will recognise it.

Anyone know more on this subject please?

I don't really understand charging/electrics!! I could use a regular bulb inline and stuff it in the headlight bowl, it'll only come on when the key is turned on.

Or..... I could rig up the bulb above the engine so it illuminates it briefly ;)

I got the horn repainted last night at club night, not a huge step forward but every little helps etc...instead of a boring black horn I thought this image would be far more interesting....spot the classic.

 
Using same LED's for oil & neutral light on my 550f just wacked em straight in work fine no problem ;)
 
yorkie350 said:
Using same LED's for oil & neutral light on my 550f just wacked em straight in work fine no problem ;)

That's good news, thanx yorker.

The ignition light is meant to be the problem one as the LED doesn't offer enough resistance apparently?? I might need an oil light as well...hmmm.
 
Another good rummage day at Kempton, initial disappointment, the bloke I bought the front guard off of had sold out!!! No worries, another was scored for a tenna which will do very nicely thank you.



It's a bit battered, but has the same lamp as the new one I have and it has a flexi number-plate that takes self-adhesive letters...and it has a reflector and cable grommet as well. It'll need some fettling, but I've offered it up and it'll do, so onward to a scotchbrite finish to both.

The new gaitors are mahoosive compared to the first one's I have, bit too big at both ends as well, despite measuring them?? They might still fit.

The eagle eyed amongst you might notice the orange ducks bill peak.....my silly buy which could find it's way onto an openface in the future.

The stash is on a stainless drip tray, just what I needed to stand the bike on to clean the engine/undercarriage....for a fiver as well :D

Spent some time with my son mooching for parts which was good father/son time, rare these days and very welcome.

All in all another good day and well worth the effort. Miss it and you miss out.
 
Spent exactly 7 minutes on the rear guard, quick scrub in the sink with a scotchbrite pad and chrome cleaner brought it up a tad. New lamp and rubber plate achieves the look I was hoping for.



Hacked some cardboard into a shape of sorts, bit too big at the moment but trying to cover the airbox......hmmm ,let's call it a work in progress and leave it at that ;)



Notice the gills....I want gills :)
 
Turned out nice :)




Tapped out the deep gouges on the rear guard, not too bad but not brilliant. Scotchbrite and chrome cleaner came out OK.

I'm keeping the Royal Enfield transfer.
 
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