Dirtbag Oil-Boiler

Lol, masters thesis is priority uno right now. I'll be done in 3 weeks and then the bikes can get some real attention
Well i finally have some time to work on this. I wanted to check the compression, but my compression tester died on the second cylinder, I did pull the valve cover to discover....shims? 86 should have adjuster screws. I think its a 91-92 based off the Engine VIN. (R716-120195) I started pulling things off as literally everything on this bike needs attention. Its a rolling basket case.


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That's a better setup than the earlier screw adjuster type. Those shims will be easy to measure and swap. Cool!
canyoncarver said:
That's a better setup than the earlier screw adjuster type. Those shims will be easy to measure and swap. Cool!
Also good for an additional 16hp!
I have met a large debacle. I initially wasn't going to pull the motor, but the previous owner resprayed the it at one time and did a piss poor job of it. There is over-spray all over the frame and swing-arm, and the paint on the motor is flaking off badly. I pulled the engine to clean the frame properly and repaint the motor but while doing so I discovered one of the engine mount lugs on the frame has sheared off.

Im feeling like i should cut and run. There's too much ham-fisted stupid shit going on here. Its all parted out and ready to go, I could probably recoup my cost and then some based off the unusual parts.
I could continue on. I have a friend who is more than qualified to repair this frame, and he'll probably do it for a 6 pack. Hell, I may even have him do some frame bracing while he's at it.

My concern is i'm gonna ride it, not like it, and want to sell it after putting a bunch of hard work into it.(been there done that) What is one of these worth if it was clean and everything had been gone through, with almost no original parts? $2000? (Bay area prices)


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I feel your pain. it is decision time.... Looks like a lot of work to make nice, how healthy is the motor. Judging by the rest of the bike probably not good
As I see it, not much is stock - motor is a later Slingshot, rear wheel isn't stock, front wheel is a Dymag - OMG that wheel is worth a fortune - no it's not - I will swap it for a something more suitable at no cost to you.......

Any sign that the bike had been raced? Bolts drilled for lockwire etc? Or is it just a mongrel?

Point is that it will never be 100% original but could be a fun bike and yes it will take time to rebuild and if you don't like it, someone will get a great bike to ride. I cannot tell you how many bikes I have built over the years and sold almost immediately because I already lost interest in them. You do not want to become me, but this one could be a fun project to build and resurrect.

I would plow on on an build it as a endurance racer look or other slightly customized look and get your cash back and have some fun building an updated slabbie maybe with newer USD forks.
Build it quick as a low buck racer, fix the frame, clean it up a little, bolt it back together and get it running. You can minimize your time and $ investment and still come out with a bike that will be alot of fun to ride and should still sell easily enough if it's not your thing in the end. My .02. fwiw
I just got off the phone with my buddy that will do the welding. He love the early GSXRs so maybe not the most un-biased opinion. he has convinced me to build it and do some frame bracing, while the repair is being done. I'm now looking for a junk frame to cut up and brace this frame with like the factory racers
I dunno if i'm going to go this crazy but i'm entertaining the idea.


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Here is the straw that broke the Gixxers back. Definitely wont be able to keep it under $1000 if i decide to proceed. Dirtbag's part out bikes, they don't rebuild motors. gonna think on it a while before i decide what to do.


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Well after thinking about it for a bit, I have decided to proceed. I'm too excited by the potential end result. There's no way I'm going to make my purposed $1000 budget, but if i can keep it under $2000 id be happy. I have started looking for a deal on a 1100 engine, but no luck yet.

I rebuilt the forks, and measured the spring which is about 18". the rebound spring is about 3.5". I'm pretty sure it has a lowering spring kit as the stock spring is supposed to be about 15". this explains why it seemed so low when i picked it up.

wondering if this is a this a desirable mod for this bike or was this setup for a short person?
doc_rot said:
I can't decide if I should keep the 16" front Dymag, or use a set of Bandit 1200 wheels, rotors and 6 pot calipers my buddy offered up
Do the Bandit wheels and forks, 43mm are way better than the 37mm and rims are wider. That's probably my favorite motor ever but not so much the frame (600/750 Katana is 'better' frame,stiffer and more rigid) The alternators from any of the 'oil boilers' will fit but you need correct drive gear to match gear in engine. Later ones had a better rectifier/regulator but there isn't really anything wrong with early model. . Over charging is more common than undercharging (battery boils dry) It's caused by old connectors supplying wrong voltage to reg. Easiest fix is cut power to alternator and fit a relay direct from battery so you know it's getting battery voltage direct. My bike dropped from 17.4v to 14.2 after doing it (full field at idle is around 17v)
The forks are 41mm on this bike, and i love the ridiculous adjuster on the fork leg so Im going to try to stay with them. After talking to the guys at Dymag they didn't recommend running a magnesium wheel of this vintage on the street. So i sold it to a dude in Japan for a tidy profit that will go back into this build. I picked up the bandit wheels from my buddy in a trade. They're gonna take some work to fit.
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