Dirtbag Oil-Boiler

They have a few different lengths on their site. I "sprung" for them because the PO was holding the muffler on with a coat hanger, and i love anything branded Yoshimura.

https://www.yoshimura-rd.com/products/spring-exhaust-with-insulator-medium-2-3-in-race-sps-1
 
I got some springs for the crossover cans. What should I use to seal these up? There’s a big gap.
 

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Yo uneed to remember what was happening at the time, GSX-R was cleaning up the 750 class production plus, modified doing pretty well on superbike series. Suzuki were was way ahead as production bikes had to look ''stock ' from 30 ft and fit into a profile shadow. I remember the oil boilers having wicked head-shake at 130+ mph on slightest bump. Safe enough as long as you didn't shut off
 
After doing some internet digging i bought this 2005 R1 rear shock for $20 on ebay. Its an all aluminum body shock and fully adjustable. Racetech also sells a lot of tuning components for it as well.

to make the shock fit I needed to trim the lower eyelet down, and came up with this ding-dang method for grind the hardend bushing to size, yes that is a grinder clamped to the drill press. Turned em both on and trimmed to size, worked great! I also had to massage the suspension knuckle to clearance for the shock but after all that it fits! Nice shock for the money.
 

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doc_rot said:
I got some springs for the crossover cans. What should I use to seal these up? There’s a big gap.

Big fat squishy silicone rings? Should handle the temps and you can probably route a mold and cast some yourself out of some High Temp RTV.
 
Small victory; I made the exhaust hanger out of a spare rear brake torque arm.
 

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3DogNate said:
Big fat squishy silicone rings? Should handle the temps and you can probably route a mold and cast some yourself out of some High Temp RTV.

that's not a bad idea, but do you think it would be up to the pressure? I think I might weld a washer on the can to reduce the hole size for a tighter fit. its pretty loose right now.
 
You should really make a slip fit tube projecting into the can slightly. That way it can still move around but will have a larger sealing area. Pretty sure it will be getting above temp that silicon can handle (high temp silicon does about 450f?) Exhaust gas leaving cylinder is generally around 1100f but cools pretty rapid as it expands.
 
That’s A good idea. I have some silicone that claims it’s rated to 1200. I was recommended it by the guy at hole shot performance specifically for sealing slip fit headers
 
My good friend styled me with a carbon fiber fairing for this project. normally I would say carbon fiber is too good for a dirtbag project such as this. However, the carbon version was made cheap and quick by pulling a positive off my hacked together original. No mold was made, so it’s a bit crude. It's super strong, and insanely light, 1 lb 4oz! All the carbon was free aerospace scrap. So it cost us nothing but our time. My buddy can claim he's worked on both the largest and second largest airplanes ever; one of the fringe benefits of that job is plundering the insane amount of material that gets thrown away because its gone out of date.
 

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Now all you have to do is trim that molding and polish the inside, wax it and apply mold release and make a perfect replica of the original and it will be smooth on the outside ready for paint or clear. Use a maximum of say 2 layers of 2x2 CF and the result will be an amazingly light stiff fairing.

I have done a couple of skins the way you did, for GT750 side covers and a tank and side covers (one piece for an RD400 and that's much heavier than doing what I described above and way more work to get them smooth.
 
teazer said:
Now all you have to do is trim that molding and polish the inside, wax it and apply mold release and make a perfect replica of the original and it will be smooth on the outside ready for paint or clear. Use a maximum of say 2 layers of 2x2 CF and the result will be an amazingly light stiff fairing.

I have done a couple of skins the way you did, for GT750 side covers and a tank and side covers (one piece for an RD400 and that's much heavier than doing what I described above and way more work to get them smooth.

I think you got it mixed up... that is the correct way to do things. This is a dirtbag project. If i do it right and make it too nice it wouldn't fit the dirt-bag aesthetic. Put on the ol' hippy hat and see that this fairing has got a "wabi-sabi" thing going on. ;D Plus I don't think all that extra work would make the fairing any better than it currently is other than cosmetics. We used high quality prepreg and vacuum bagged the whole setup while it was cured at 150f. its unbelievably light, this is the same carbon fiber that was used to build the stratolaunch
 

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are the wrinkles in the carbon itself or just resin? Can you sand them out or will that cut through the carbon?
 
canyoncarver said:
Well, only the cool dirtbags use carbon fiber.. 8) 8)

high-tech low-life


SONIC. said:
are the wrinkles in the carbon itself or just resin? Can you sand them out or will that cut through the carbon?

that's excess resin where the vacuum bag compressed and wrinkled, the carbon is dead flat. I could sand most of the wrinkles out and clear it but Im undecided if i will. that sounds like more work that wont contribute to burnouts.
 
I hear you on the work vs reward but I think in this case it's worth it. Just my opinion but it will be so cool when sanded smooth and cleared, at the moment it looks like someone did a shitty job with CF vinyl wrap. ;D

That sounds harsher than I meant it haha
it's awesome, just would be more awesome if it were smooth :D
 
SONIC. said:
I hear you on the work vs reward but I think in this case it's worth it. Just my opinion but it will be so cool when sanded smooth and cleared, at the moment it looks like someone did a shitty job with CF vinyl wrap. ;D

That sounds harsher than I meant it haha
it's awesome, just would be more awesome if it were smooth :D
Im not taking it personally. dirtbags would vinyl wrap their fairing. lol
 
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