Down under, an idiot and a 400F

[neevo]

So whilst I wait to book a slot in with my bud Darren to have my exhausts welded up, I took today to tidy up the battery box and make a neater version as I didn't like the way I had to weld it to the base:



I had watched this video and thought it was a much neater way to make a box:

http://youtu.be/6Fhg5e261wU

Plus it would mean I could make a baseplate separately and simply bolt the battery box to it vs having to try and weld them together.

Here is the template which I cut out with my pneumatic metal shears (work a treat once they are adjusted):



I scored the lines in between the folds with the angle grinder to make folding it easier plus I drilled a couple of holes in the base for added lightness:







I'm now looking for a neater option for mounting the battery strap and a few of the other electrical components.

 

[andycafe]

2

 

[dannywrx88]

Looks trick mate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[crazypj]

I would add a bunch more holes to the sides.
Figure out where your putting relays and reg/rect first then remove everything not required.
Sharpie in front of TV while babysitting should work (although carb cleaner and rags to remove mistakes may not go down too well ;D )
If you dimple the bolt holes you can use flat head screws.
I use 1/8" ribbed rubber mat to line battery box (offcuts from bench re-covering when I was working)

 

[neevo]

Good idea. Quick question on the R&R, I was worried it would get hot under the hump with a tray under the subframe too. Do you think a metal battery box would conduct enough heat away or should I look to relocate the R&R somewhere it will get plenty of airflow?

 

[crazypj]

Bottom or back of battery box would be a better location than under seat hump.
Pretty much anywhere it can radiate heat and not be in a 'dead air' place.
As long as air can circulate it shouldn't get too hot.

 

[jpmobius]

+1 Depends on the regulator as to how critical the cooling is. Some get really hot, and some fail pretty reliable if they get too hot. Can't remember what you are using, but some air flow would likely be important.

 

[neevo]

Been looking at a Ricks Regulator:

http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/291228517172

 

[crazypj]

I've been told they work well but personally never used one (I'm too cheap )
Personally I would get a modern reg/rect and wire it in.
Only real problem is not many bikes use a EMS alternator nowadays. Suzuki Bandit r/r pack could work but you would probably have to buy complete alternator, new part price would be way above the Rick's part

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

I've been told they work well but personally never used one (I'm too cheap )
Personally I would get a modern reg/rect and wire it in.
Only real problem is not many bikes use a EMS alternator nowadays. Suzuki Bandit r/r pack could work but you would probably have to buy complete alternator, new part price would be way above the Rick's part

I've used Ricks before. I haven't had any issues so far. I agree with the EMS alternator issue. Better to just find a drop in if it were me I've had to fix a few customer bikes with their own modified electrickery and it would have been cheaper to just toss in a new replacement unit in the end. I love seeing the progress on this build. The bat box is looking great so far!

 

[neevo]

What's the EMS reference? I have a custom loom in the bike, is that going to work with any upgrades?

Happy to explore better charging options if I don't have to cut up the wiring.

 

[neevo]

Exhaust! I'm getting to the stage of having my headers welded up and I'm pretty clear on what 80% of the system will look like. The one area that's still in debate are the mufflers.

For those following along (all 4 of you), the original plan was to have twin exhausts (still the plan) and I had sourced some amazing Yoshimura R-77's for the job:

However a few pointed out how big they were (rightly so) and I think the small frame of the 400 is a little too delicate to pull these off (they will look amazing on my next build though)!

Looking back the dual setup definitely works, I just need to find some mufflers that are a little less enormous:

Roll forward a bit and I'm weighing up options that meet the brown PVC pipe brief and think a couple of options from Cone Eng (Megs) will suit.

Option 1: tried and tested and a bit safe





Option 2: a new design from Megs and I think it could look good with the modern design I'm going for:



Keen to hear people's thoughts as I'm struggling to decide.

Either way I'm thinking I will finish the headers and secondaries first before finalising the option to make sure I have everything right. Might even try to make some analogues in cardboard to test the look.

 

[crazypj]

I think second option will look better than a megaphone. Haven't seen a 'flying turd' exhaust since the 80's (rusty steel instead of stainless ;D )

 

[neevo]

Yeah that's where I'm leaning too PJ. I think it will have same overall look as Yoshi's but in a smaller package.

 

[DohcBikes]

Have to respectfully disagree. The first choice will look much better on a small bike.

 

[wayfastwil]

I know it's a long ways from you but CycleX has lots of parts great web site Hazlehurst, WI www.cyclex.net Ken the owner is great with phone calls not so much with emails he is a very busy guy! VintageCb750 is another place both are in the States wil

 

[neevo]

Have to respectfully disagree. The first choice will look much better on a small bike.

Think I need to get some cardboard templates to mock up both options.

 

[spotty]

maybe another option might be modern after market 4 stroke trail bike mufflers, generally same shape as your first choice yoshi cans but much smaller/shorter/narrower. usually optioned as alloy or titanium but prob carbon as well. also usually available as both street legal or full race noise........heeheeheeheeheeheeehee

 

[1fasgsxr]

I like option # 2

 

[1fasgsxr]

Spotty is on to something...look for something for a super moto, My cousins DRZ has Dual Yoshi carbon cans that look small