Enfield Tracker: War Pig Rennaissance

Perfect solution...forgot about that router attachment in the dremel case, too. Square those edges nicely.
 
Perhaps you should also pick up a cheap 4-1/2" angle grinder from HF, while in the US. Grab some flap discs, also.
 
Hah, I am already way overweight for my move allowance! No more major items allowed!

I think I may just have a machinist trim up and drill the tab anyhow since I am getting other work done in the US anyhow...
 
In the US now with the head. Gonna get the helicoil done here.

And will be traveling to get the Matchless soon. :)
 
Supposed to head up on the 26th and return with it on the 27th. Bout a 4-5 hour drive from RI to VT to get it. Guess I'll start a thread.
 
So this is done:

51f287d9b7d18e02e3cb60e9c3190a58.jpg


Tom McVay is the man!!!

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
Ok, so the decompressor valve fits fine in the helicoiled hole:

416c9ba596d96443d6e05bb519c79bf6.jpg


The rear brake mounting tab has been prettied up quite a bit:

73429a378dac2f3cda727ed7bbb9c29c.jpg


And the head bearing cups have been reshaped inside (by hand grinder, because a lathe wasn't available when needed). Races are fully seated, bearings are sitting nicely and turning freely now:

67d3b3c5e7ca3381f24b46cb578a75a7.jpg


Back to Africa tomorrow. Can't wait to start putting it all back together...we will see when I get that chance. Lotta work to catch up on before I can play, I fear.



Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
That helicoil will be a good repair; I've been tempted to install them in aluminum holes on a preventive basis.

The brake mounting plate looks good.
 
On aircraft engines the spark plug holes come from the factory with heli-coils in them. That way if a spark plug strips it out you just replace the heli-coil.
 
But nothing on a Royal Enfield ever breaks, especially anything related to the Indian metallurgical practices employed at the factory...

Reworked head cups are installed, with some extra knurling from a center punch and a bit of bearing mount compound, and seem to be working perfectly.

Got a bunch of re-wiring done today while I wait for some head nut washers to replace those I lost along the way. (booooo.) The bulky weatherpack block connectors are no longer awkwardly cramped between the tank and the bars, stressing the wires as the bars turn. Got them tucked up under the tank now, with nice smooth wire runs. Hopefully engine heat doesn't kill them...doubt it will...but we'll see. Waiting on some slick-looking woven split conduit from McMaster to clean it all up.

Now I gotta get the tires swapped, front end back together, wheels on, then the head back on top once I have the washers.

(Weldngrind, I haven't had the chance to get that exhaust paint done-hoping I can before it's time to mount it up again, but if not it may have to wait...I just gotta get it moving and ride!!!)
 
Wire sleeving looks cool. Block connectors now hidden under tank.

Now for the fork and front end reassembly. Then the head. Then maybe in the next week this fucker will run again.

bdedbd48acfb825bf4223aeff34ee216.jpg


fbc9e065d910544fa3e328e96e34f19b.jpg



Edit: front end is on, and the head is bolted down, waiting for rockers rods etc.
 
If you use a little marine grade shrink tubing (the kind with adhesive inside) over the ends of the braided wire wrap it won't fray and bunch up over time.
 
Thanks!

I planned to, but in a lot of cases I couldn't because of the multiple terminals to try and slip it over, even when they were pulled from the connector block. I've used silicon self-fusing tape instead in some places instead. I've also used a match to melt the edges a little.

Edit: This is side-split braided sleeving, not the expandable chinese finger-trap woven stuff. I needed something that I could install where I already had terminals and blocks in place; I had cut off the tubular vinyl sleeving I'd installed first go-round. It looks 89% as good as the fully closed sleeving, but has the ability to come off and on easily. That's good for someone who fucks things up as often as I do.
 
Engine started and ran!! (Thanks Kiley...) Now to see about getting the front brake line replaced and, even more importantly, figuring out why my rear caliper is suddenly rubbing on the disc mounting bolt heads.

8a7e257e0cd63e289ca4aa07ff42fe75.jpg


Marked its old territory with its breather hose.
 
Had been having some issues with it idling erratically and dying as it became slightly warmed up...frustrating but a combo of new gas (the shit here is pretty skanky and seems to go bad fast, a fresh plug, a quick blow-out of the carb (using a straw, gently), and a timing/valve clearance triple-check seems to have it running well.

https://youtu.be/4IJAE-p1Urc

Got the rear caliper bracket to stop rubbing the hub. Need to bleed the front brake better, and may remove the fork brace for the time being in favor of the stock fender. It is muddy here right now, and the water which makes the mud is particularly nasty...

Will work out a fender mount from the fork brace but that can wait. May get a nice light fiberglass fender. We'll see.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
And test rides commence!
 

Attachments

  • 11903924_10154138658803452_5391392452534782300_n.jpg
    11903924_10154138658803452_5391392452534782300_n.jpg
    88.4 KB · Views: 302
Back
Top Bottom