Enfield Tracker: War Pig Rennaissance

AgentX

Well-Known Member
Flat file. :) My guess is that the position of the caliper shifted relative to the wheel as I adjusted for chain tension, causing rub which wasn't there before. Should be good in all positions now.
 

sleventynineR

Life in slow motion at 110 mph
Very cool build- I read the entire build start to finish last week; that was about the time I stopped lurking.
 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
Thanks, man. Glad you enjoyed the saga so far. Can't believe I'm still working on stuff but it's getting there!

Oh, and my engine guy wanted a clip where it wasn't in the carport and thus sounding like it's underwater. The tach jumping will be fixed this coming weekend--have to add a different RPM counter which reads off the high tension plug lead. Weird; I can't figure out why it won't simply work off the positive or negative coil terminal (with tach set appropriately for either setting) but others with the same Boyer ignitions on their enfields have also had this same issue. I set up the new rev counter via some alligator clips and it was dead-steady and accurate, so I'll wire it in when I can.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTj-vT7RUOk
 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLIImOUnW7I

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nh0zEtP6MVw

Mine sounds kinda different than the average after all the engine work...but I still have a packed muffler. My engine guy runs an open megaphone, plus his bike just has this deeper, hollower thudding noise.


And in India, Enfield riders generally try to tune their bikes to idle stupidly low, and ride as close as possible to (or below) the point of lugging because that's considered the best sound. "The thump" is a tiresome topic of discussion there... :)
 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
Got a little ride in, finally! Grabbed the rest of the Hell's Bureaucrats and hit the road up and around the big hill overlooking town.

Engine ran like a top. Brake and wheel setup still need some work.



 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
Got back to the machine shop to get the stem cone nut lathed down a little so the top locknut could fit. The custom cups I had made were taller than stock, and there was no thread to fit the locknut on. Till now I was just tightening it before every ride...

Two minute job but I had to wait for the lathe guy, so I snapped some hipster bike and machine shots.









(Post-holocaust mad max Muppet rooster zombie...)







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clem

static fluff
DTT BOTM WINNER
That leading axle front end will be the next hipster trend...you just watch and see.
 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
So, now that things are looking like I can proceed with actually riding this thing somewhat... I am considering (once back Stateside) going to clip-ons and a slightly different tank, with a nose-bowl fairing like an old Norton or AJS style. Since I have the Matchless as a more upright scrambler-style ride, would be neat to have a something more road-oriented. Now that the bike's tripled the horsepower, more or less, of the original, the clipons don't see so out of place.

Spare stock tank would get knee and clipon indents, with an offset flip-open cap. Same olive color I think since it's steel. Not going to spring for a new tank for sure. Clip-ons, and the race-style fairing possibly with projector lamps built in.

Till then, I have lots of real work to do getting it in perfect tune as it breaks in some more. I think the ignition timing is in the right ballpark now, but I'm concerned about ping timing it because of the quality of the fuel. Still searching for a good fuel octane boost additive here. Hoping at least to find a source for pure toulene which my engine guy recommends the same as any commercial product.

I found "lead replacer" and bought it, but it turns out it's only intended to simulate the beneficial effects of lead on valves, not to boost octane.
 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
Weldangrind said:
Love those old-school milling machines.
God knows what state of repair the machines themselves are in, but they sure do exude character.

This shop does most of the machining for any automotive job in the city. The number of cranks and blocks laying around in sizes from your forearm to your leg is astounding. And they're just all in piles. I really can't fathom how it all works.
 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
Break-in jetting was P6 needle/200 main jets. Per my engine guy just dropped to P4/185 which should be the regular jetting from now on. Seems/feels/smells/acts a lot less fat in an initial stationary startup, but the needle is floating a little as the RPMs back down through 1300-1200 RPM or so on the way to idle.

Changed the oil again, too. Should be on a pretty normal oil change schedule from this point out. I do want to change transmission fluid after a few more miles, too.

Valves haven't needed any serious adjustment but I did do my first tightening-up. The adjusters are built into the pushrods and accessible via the "tappet chest" on the crankcase. One bolt and you're in. It's a tight fit to actually adjust them though. You tighten them till they spin slowly with finger pressure but have no up/down play. I was at the point where they spun really, really easily, so a quick adjustment put them on the tighter end of acceptable.

Getting things ironed out here. It's nice.
 

AgentX

Well-Known Member
Stuck on a brutally hot firing range waiting for the construction contractor to show...so, more snapshots.











Disc brake setup is good, but I may work up a new linkage for the left-side brake pedal. This one has an inline ball joint which makes up for a lack or precision but I might try to make something which doesn't require that.

Also looking at toolbox/side cover options. The stock boxes interfere with rider legs/feet due to placement of rearsets.

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AgentX

Well-Known Member
Thanks, man...sometimes I feel like this is just boring public navel-gazing at this point. Glad it is still of interest.

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clem

static fluff
DTT BOTM WINNER
I like it. Agent X's Third World Country Customs. Kinda has a good ring to it. TWCC.
 

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