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Thanks , and the flange thickness?
Is there any advantage in turning the bottom off the sleeve to match your short skirt? I'm guessing the sleeve's about 100mm high but you don't need more than the lenght of the stroke + skirt OR do you?
Thanks , and the flange thickness?
Is there any advantage in turning the bottom off the sleeve to match your short skirt? I'm guessing the sleeve's about 100mm high but you don't need more than the lenght of the stroke + skirt OR do you?
The cb200 rod looks like 104-105 center to center. 14mm width at the top and looks to be the same at the bottom. The bottom pin size is 30mm??? Does anybody have the specs on the cb200 con rod. It looks like we need to remove 5mm just to get even with the cb200 piston and then even more to get to the correct compression.
Since the 175 had 8mm less barrel hight but the same 41mm stroke
The 200's added 8mm to the crown
so would it be feasible to shave
the whole 8mm
off the barrels to use a lower crowned piston
Or is 8mm too much?
It seems like all you need to do is mill 2.5mm from each side of your jugs to get your new Tbolt pistons near 0 deck...
Then take the remainder off of the head to make up for the difference in compression due to the smaller crown size.
Whats the thought on the rods? The 200's rods have the 15mm wristpin that appear to fit the tbolt piston.
What rod did you want to change to?
XL-125S/ATC-200/cb125S2 are all 103.5 and Wider @ 30mm pin diameter .
The Yamaha SR-125/XT-125 is quite a bit wider (20mm) but 105 @ 30mm
XLR-125,200 W/W 105.5
All are 4 stroke rods
On another note Zeke and I fixed our first starter off our mower the shaft had rusted to a washer. Lubed it and put it back together and now we are ready for our first two stroke
DOHC and SOHC rods are interesting but are plain bearing and the 200 is roller, so that's close but no cigar.
Why were the liners removed BTW, 57mm piston will bore in to stock liners. Was that so that the barrels could be machined shorter and then press liners back in after machining? Did you look at 175 barrels to see it it would be easier to shim one of those up rather than machining a 200 down to size?
The sleeves were removed simply to check deck height without having to finish bore the liners . This gave us the rough dimension of 5mm .
The lightweight piston is every bit of 5mm short or the block is 5mm too tall .
We still don't know the dimensions of the stock rod :-/
Take 5mm off the block and then the obvious camchain issues .
Any relatively easy connecting rod swap with a longer center to center would mean at least something less off the block and an improved rod length to stroke ratio as a side benefit .
Just working the problem ;-)
I only have access to dimensions for recent and or common connecting rods that are still in production . I have somewhat less access to vintage rods and metal forged prior to the palaeolithic era .
Tonight we will clean the gaskets off the jug and case and get a better measurement maybe even pull out the dial indicator...and bake the 175 head so we can measure the lip. We generated a Facebook threat from mom concerning her cookie sheet so we will use no sheet but the welding gloves instead.
DOHC and SOHC rods are interesting but are plain bearing and the 200 is roller, so that's close but no cigar.
Why were the liners removed BTW, 57mm piston will bore in to stock liners. Was that so that the barrels could be machined shorter and then press liners back in after machining? Did you look at 175 barrels to see it it would be easier to shim one of those up rather than machining a 200 down to size?
Here's dumb question #5889
Could you not leave the roller bearings in place on the crank and bolt a 2piece con rod around them?
What's the max overbore for a 175 before needing bigger liners
Two piece rods for insert bearings arn't quite perfectly round . there is always a bit of distortion at the parting line .It you were to place a race inside the big end of a two piece rod then sure it may work but why the complexity and extra weight of the rod bolts et all
Two piece rods for insert bearings arn't quite perfectly round . there is always a bit of distortion at the parting line .It you were to place a race inside the big end of a two piece rod then sure it may work but why the complexity and extra weight of the rod bolts et all
I suppose I was looking for ways to play with rod lenght and pin diameter that didn't involve pressing and balancing the crank each time
If you're going to press the crank anyway how about putting 200 rods on a 175 bottom end that way you can run a stock 175 cam (+ points journal and oil hole in the head )
I suppose I was looking for ways to play with rod lenght and pin diameter that didn't involve pressing and balancing the crank each time
If you're going to press the crank anyway how about putting 200 rods on a 175 bottom end that way you can run a stock 175 cam (+ points journal and oil hole in the head )
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