Lifan 150cc big-bore kit: Installation

Sunrise4567

New Member
Hi, great post on the install. I have just completed this myself and the only problem I have encountered is an increase in tappet noise. I have checked and re adjusted the valve clearance several times to the specs supplied of 004" and 006" and then even tried reducing the clearance to the original settings, but it just slightly reduced the noise of quite a noticable loud ticking coming from the valve gear. I was wondering if you had this problem or you could suggest a area to look at? Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Kind regards. Cameron :)
 

stroker crazy

crazy as a fox
Is it much louder than before the conversion?

If you have the correct clearances I can't see where there could be a problem.

Crazy
 

orrible-64

Coast to Coast
i have the same problem...still trying to track down the ticking noise...bike runs fine, gaps are correct.. I am going to pull the motor down after i return from speed week at lake gairdner. noise sounds like tappet noise but i am unsure...but runs ok...quiet when cold but ticks when hot
 

sprocket2cog

Been Around the Block
being a pushrod motor without roller rockers etc , its always going to make some tappet noise, and as it gets hot it gets louder, its normal to hear it
 

orrible-64

Coast to Coast
I am not concerned that the motor will eat itself, just noisier than with original pot and piston. strange seeing how it is all the same rocker gear pushrods and cam...might be the steel in the new valves expand at a different rate?..
anyway don't panic about the ticking. i am not...just puzzled to why it is louder...my valve stem clearance has been set back to standard, not recommended gap by oo racing. i have refitted base gasket to cylinder not left it out as recomended as well.
motor runs fine . top speed of 115 kph with 17/38 gearing(maybe more but didn't push my luck).
 

Sunrise4567

New Member
Hi again. I have been re reading through your guide to the install of the kit, and I think I may have picked up a problem when I put it back together that is causing my louder than usual valve gear noise. When I looked at your photos of removing cam followers and being carefull not to loose thrust washer it got me thinking that when I put the followers back through the locating pin I put the thrust washer between the two followers!!! Is this incorrect? Should it be placed at the end of the pin towards the centre of the motor?

Thanks again in advance for your input. As a recent sign on to this site I have been blown away with all the great info and passion for these bikes. Keep up the great work, it makes great reading and is inspirational.

Kind regards Cameron
 

Bojer

Been Around the Block
Sunrise4567 said:
when I put the followers back through the locating pin I put the thrust washer between the two followers!!! Is this incorrect? Should it be placed at the end of the pin towards the centre of the motor?

That's how its shown on the Skyteam drawing motor - on the end that is ;)
http://www.skyteamparts.com/store/e-2-cylinder-head-air-inlet-exhaust-system-valve-cylinder-body/
 

stroker crazy

crazy as a fox
Sunrise4567 said:
Is this incorrect?

The washer does fit toward the centre.

It sits in a recess in the casting and can be seen in this photo:
 

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Bojer

Been Around the Block
Is that a wavey washer so there is no end to end play on the cam followers once installed ? - so the noise is the axial play in the followers ?
 

Sunrise4567

New Member
Great news that the fault is mine and not the bike!!! Thanks for the photo, it was just what I was thinking about.

Pretty dumb mistake on my part.....I will let you know how I go when I do it tomorrow. Might have to make a new gasket for the bottom of the cylinder or is it safe to do it the way suggested with a smear of silicon sealer and no gasket? I have high quality 220 c silicon sealer is this ok?

Cameron
 

stroker crazy

crazy as a fox
Mine runs fine without a gasket.

Be ultra-careful with the sealer. Use an absolute minimum, and wipe clear for about 2mm around the edges.

It's nasty stuff in the wrong places!

Crazy
 

Sunrise4567

New Member
Update..... this afternoon I removed the head and cylinder to rectify the incorrectly placed thrust washer. When I turned the cylinder over to drift the locating pin out I couldn't see the washer. All sorts of thoughts ran through my mind like did it fall out of my hands when i was putting it back together? Did I put it in then take it off because I wasn't sure where it should go, then leave it out all together by mistake? It all became clear when I drained and strained the oil...... Feeling a bit sick at the moment with the thought of my extreme incompetence.

Where to from here? Does everthing need to come apart now?

As usual any information is greatly appreciated.
 

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stroker crazy

crazy as a fox
Sunrise4567 said:
Does everthing need to come apart now?

Drain the oil and see if anything else falls out; but I would think that a tear-down is advisable.

Fortunately it is about as simple as a four-stroke motor can get.

Crazy
 

Bojer

Been Around the Block
I'd try just pouring some more oil in through the crankcase mouth and see if you can flush the rest out .

If that doesn't work might be worth 5 minutes with one of those telescopic magnets poking around - just a chance.

If you cannot account for it all it will need a motor strip as you don't want bits like that floating around - good luck with it .
 

sprocket2cog

Been Around the Block
at least it isnt an expensive part
number 41 on here
http://www.skyteamparts.com/store/e-2-cylinder-head-air-inlet-exhaust-system-valve-cylinder-body/
 

stroker crazy

crazy as a fox
Sunrise4567 said:
I will give it a try

If you need to dismantle the motor post here before you start.

I'm sure the DTT 'Ace' crew can provide all the assistance and advice necessary to get a successful result.

Crazy
 

Sunrise4567

New Member
Removed motor yesterday and all bolts around the centre of the crankcase, but when trying to seperate the two halves I could easily get around a 3-4mm gap but that is about it without forcing anything. (Also removed the clutch side cover and inspected for any of the broken washer, but nothing in that side.)

Is there something else that needs to be removed before the two halves can be seperated for inspection purposes?
 

stroker crazy

crazy as a fox
Sunrise4567 said:
Is there something else that needs to be removed before the two halves can be seperated for inspection purposes?

It's a bit difficult to diagnose from this distance with no photos!

You have the clutch assembly and gear change shaft removed I suppose. Does the resistance seem to be coming from a particular position?

Crazy
 

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