New member from Wisconsin
- Thread starter kodiak
- Start date
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
What? How tall are you?memphis said:
yeah, I know...believe me I LOVE a good Cafe'!!!! My problem was everytime I rode it, which was all the time, My legs would continuesly cramp up. It would get so painful that I would have to ull over and stretch. It was the way my foot controls were placed. Making rearsets is WAY expensive and so, out of the question. I just have to bide my time till I can get a slightly larger bike to cafe. But, in the mean time, I've decided to bob my 400. I'll have some pics on my thread soon.johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
I made a set of rearsets for my cb400 that used the passenger peg mounts and found them much less comfortable then the stock location. I'm quite comfortable with my clubmans and the stock footpegs; my legs only ever cramp up if I've had my feet on the ground at a long light. keep in mind I don't crouch at 6'3" my arms are long enough to sit up and use the clubmans comfortably. I also put a lot of weight on my pegs (even stand up for the big bumps) and find the stock location perfect for this. I don't think you'd need a bigger bike but it would take some trial and error to find out where to put your pegs so that you are comfortable and what works for you might not work for anyone else. I wasted weeks making a set for my bike (though they didn't cost me anything but time) only to find out that not only did they make things worse, but I could have just flipped the shifter around and gone with a gp shift pattern instead of messing around with a linkage.
johnson_steve
Been Around the Block
I wish I had taken pictures.
For the shifter side I took the stock shift leaver and choped it so it was about 1.75" long and drilled a hole in the end of the linkage. this was my 'nub' or whatever you want to call it. I then took another shift leaver (there was a '79 xs1100 in my dad's drive way that was about to be junked so I used that) and welded a little tab on it to mount the linkage (I think I used a ground down fender washer for the tab. and ran a bar linkage made from some rod and those pivoting rod ends (I procured these from my previous employer they were all over the place.) this worked but it wasn't pretty and I then learned I could have just taken the shifter off and flipped it 180* and learned to shift the upsidedown GP style pattern (1up 4 down)
for the brake side I took the brake leaver off the XS, lucky me it was nice and straight. I cut about 4" out of it and welded it back together. I flipped the little brake arm on my rear drum brake upside down so it pointed up and bent up a new brake rod out of some threaded rod from home depot.
both controlls rotated on the rear pegs mounting bolts (or new longer ones rather) with some washers, nuts and a spring.
For the shifter side I took the stock shift leaver and choped it so it was about 1.75" long and drilled a hole in the end of the linkage. this was my 'nub' or whatever you want to call it. I then took another shift leaver (there was a '79 xs1100 in my dad's drive way that was about to be junked so I used that) and welded a little tab on it to mount the linkage (I think I used a ground down fender washer for the tab. and ran a bar linkage made from some rod and those pivoting rod ends (I procured these from my previous employer they were all over the place.) this worked but it wasn't pretty and I then learned I could have just taken the shifter off and flipped it 180* and learned to shift the upsidedown GP style pattern (1up 4 down)
for the brake side I took the brake leaver off the XS, lucky me it was nice and straight. I cut about 4" out of it and welded it back together. I flipped the little brake arm on my rear drum brake upside down so it pointed up and bent up a new brake rod out of some threaded rod from home depot.
both controlls rotated on the rear pegs mounting bolts (or new longer ones rather) with some washers, nuts and a spring.
OK GUYS, Sorry I haven't been doing anything on this thread, but I've been putting in some crazy hours at work... I just finally got back to the bike... Will post pics when I can...
Got the ports polished, cleaned up th combustion chamber side of the head, gathered all the stock to machine my rearsets. Started machining, but haven't finished yet...
Also, flipped my handlebars upside down... tho i have no intentions of keeping it that way, money is tight and it atleast gives me an idea of what she'll look like when i'm done, and I can get a feel for the stance...
I think I've come up with her name too... "Suicide Dreams"
Also found an awesome way to polish up the crankcase, as it's a little on the snotty side.... 3M scotch bright wheels in my die grinder... it's putting on a mirror finish... Works real nice on rusty spokes, too ;D
Got the ports polished, cleaned up th combustion chamber side of the head, gathered all the stock to machine my rearsets. Started machining, but haven't finished yet...
Also, flipped my handlebars upside down... tho i have no intentions of keeping it that way, money is tight and it atleast gives me an idea of what she'll look like when i'm done, and I can get a feel for the stance...
I think I've come up with her name too... "Suicide Dreams"
Also found an awesome way to polish up the crankcase, as it's a little on the snotty side.... 3M scotch bright wheels in my die grinder... it's putting on a mirror finish... Works real nice on rusty spokes, too ;D
brewtown16
what, me worry?
johnson_steve said:
exactly why i took off the pass pegs and went with a glass solo seat.
ok.... Major fucking problem... I snapped off the stud that holds the back shock in.... Anybody know how to dig these out? I know it was welded to the frame on the backside.... I've dug the mojority of the weld out... Is it threaded thru the shock bushing, or just a slip fit? I'm trying to figure out if i need to drill it and ez out it, or if i can just pound it out when i get the rest of the weld out....
What bike is this on?
The shock bushing is just a slip fit. You should probably take the shock off to work on the stud. Not to rub salt into the wounds, and you've now learned I'm sure that the nuts on the studs don't need any real torque - just need to be on snug and maybe with some Loctite to keep them from backing off.
I recall someone else doing this recently - what are your plans once you get the stud out? Going to weld a new one in place?
The shock bushing is just a slip fit. You should probably take the shock off to work on the stud. Not to rub salt into the wounds, and you've now learned I'm sure that the nuts on the studs don't need any real torque - just need to be on snug and maybe with some Loctite to keep them from backing off.
I recall someone else doing this recently - what are your plans once you get the stud out? Going to weld a new one in place?
its an '81 CM400E.
I'm not sure what I'll do when i get it out... A welder is one of those things i never got around to buying... I'll probably just put a bolt back through it with a large washer.... I dunno for sure, but I'll figure it out... thanks for the info... I was really starting to worry.....
I'm not sure what I'll do when i get it out... A welder is one of those things i never got around to buying... I'll probably just put a bolt back through it with a large washer.... I dunno for sure, but I'll figure it out... thanks for the info... I was really starting to worry.....
brewtown16
what, me worry?
steve and myself have a welder... but your in watertown right?
Yeah, I'm up in watertown... If i can limp it over to work, which is only a few blocks away from home, I should be able to get it welded up there....brewtown16 said:
What a pain in the ass... I ony snapped it cuz I had to drop the swing arm so I could install my rearsets, since i kinda goofed on my design... Oh well, rookie mistake!
brewtown16
what, me worry?
just make sure you mesure twice. things could get worse by you not having everything properly squared.
