Norton / Harley Ironhead Cafe Project.. Build thread

Bevelheadmhr

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I got the seat under tray back, with its battery recess welded in place. Now all it needs is a Ballistic battery..



Also made a start on the new rear set mounts. I used a scrap piece of 10mm alloy and drilled the peg and frame mounting holes first. Then took it home to check it fits the frame ok, so now the rear master cylinder can be mounted, and the bracket shaped. The other side is easier to do, except it'll need a new shorter shift rod making. The socket head bolts will be counter sunk a few mm and their heads machined so they are almost flush with the plate.



 

Bevelheadmhr

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Today with the arrival of my new Ballistic battery, my bike has lost another 11lbs, compared to the equivalent Yuasa YTX20BS (13.9lbs Vs 2.7lbs) or 1.2kg. I'm edging closer to the target of losing 100lbs compared to a standard XL1000. The new battery fits easily in the recess made for it, with spare room enough for some foam to cushion the vibes.
 

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durp

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Yes! I have the same battery for my goldwing bobber and my ironhead project. I swear by these things.
 

Bevelheadmhr

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durp said:
Yes! I have the same battery for my goldwing bobber and my ironhead project. I swear by these things.
Good to know, the only problem I've read about is that they don't like to be overcharged or drained completely (it kills them). May have to fit a little voltmeter, just to be on the safe side, my 888 has one and its comforting to be able to keep an eye on the Italian electrics.

Made a start on the cutting out the plates for the rear sets, and been trying to find a suitable pair of master cylinders (clutch and front brake), I'd like Brembos, but they are twice the price of Japanese Nissins on ebay. Nineties GSXR look to be a possible source, as they have angled master cylinders to suite clip ons.. Still looking.

Also I had to order a piece of alloy to make an air filter / Velocity stack, as I couldn't find anything suitable to liberate from Jeff's hoard. The S&S Velocity stack on the carb now is too long and has no filtration at all, I had it left over from an old project, so fitted it just to see how it looked.
 

unclerob

Member
Just seen your thread....looking good! Interested because I once rode a friends Domi fitted with a WLA motor...it wasn't fast! Have you thought of using master cylinders from the early 80's Honda Shadow, can't quite recall exactly what they look like but I do remember that they are angled just right for clip ons!
 

john83

Active Member
Bevelheadmhr said:
Good to know, the only problem I've read about is that they don't like to be overcharged or drained completely (it kills them).
Yes, it does. I had one on my Thruxton and didn't realize my regulator was going bad. Drained it dead a couple of times and it stopped recharging. That was a costly mistake.
 

ProSimex

RUN SCREAMING!!!
Better check what kind of output your genny is throwing out with that then. May be a simple fix of a different reg, or you may want to get a new low output genny from cycle electric. The 6v on my 59xlh seems ok with its small battery, but my buddies '70xlh just eats smaller batteries with the 12v.. He's looking to upgrade (downgrade?) to a low output system for his.

Common problem with genny HD's running non stock batteries.
 

Bevelheadmhr

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Good info on the Lithium battery, the one I have is 12 cell, 20ah, so not that small really. Also I've fitted a modern aftermarket rectifier/regulator which replaces the geny end cover, but even so I'm now leaning toward fitting a voltmeter too.

Finally found a suitable pair of clutch / front brake master cylinders at a good price, not Goldline Brembos, as they were way over priced on Ebay. Went for a set from a Honda VTR SP2 instead, which fit the look I was going for.
 

Bevelheadmhr

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Finally got around to taking off the heads, as I wanted to replace the pushrod covers and maybe paint the heads silver/grey. I hate opening up an engine that runs ok, turns out for good reason. It was all going to plan, when I hit a problem. The new lower push rod covers wouldn't fit over the old (none standard) inner cover. This was a surprise, as I'd assumed even aftermarket inners would be the same, since they cant be seen. But no. This stopped the work dead in its tracks. I've ordered new inner pushrod tubes, which have to come from Zodiac in Holland, no idea how long that will take, hopefully not too long.



Heads look ok, not much carbon build up, and just a bit of rust near the exhaust port where the heat must have affected the powder coat, not as bad as they first looked. Not sure now if I should leave them black or paint them a silver/grey.

 

Bevelheadmhr

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The order didn't take long to arrive, so got busy cleaned and painted the heads, new pushrod covers, head bolts and rocker dome head nuts..



The paint was taking its time to cure, so helped it along with 30 mins at 80c..



Got this stainless starter button, think I'll fit it here, on the top motor mount, I may be able to fit the horn button there too, which will keep the wiring out of sight..



Also been thinking about drilling/machining the sprocket cover.. hence the marker pen dots in the photo. Not sure yet, I don't want to go too far, as I want to keep the top half to stop chain oil being flung all over the place..

 

Bevelheadmhr

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squirley said:
This is looking great!
Where did you pick up the stainless push button from?
From the Zodiac catalogue (euro HD custom parts), you can view their products on line.. just google 'Zodiac Harley'

Don't like Points, converting to single fire electronic ignition (in cone), using 3 Ohm coils
 
Bevelheadmhr said:
Got this stainless starter button, think I'll fit it here, on the top motor mount, I may be able to fit the horn button there too, which will keep the wiring out of sight..
That's a very nice touch. I'm all for the clean and... wireless... look. I assume that's what you're after as well, especially for the handlebars, right?
But, doesn't the horn button need to be near your thumb?
What other switches will you be fitting and where?

M.
 

Bevelheadmhr

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Cuba Libre said:
That's a very nice touch. I'm all for the clean and... wireless... look. I assume that's what you're after as well, especially for the handlebars, right?
But, doesn't the horn button need to be near your thumb?
What other switches will you be fitting and where?

M.
The rules state it needs a horn, but not where the button goes, so its going somewhere out of the way. I cant remember the last time I used a horn on a bike, you wouldn't hear it over the exhaust noise in any case ;D. To pass its MOT (annual inspection) all it needs is a horn and lights (and brake lights).. and they can be on all the time, don't even need high/low beam. The ignition key has three positions like most HDs, on, off and lights so that's all its having. There will be no buttons on the bars, no indicators, no kill switch and no mirrors. I can do this as the bike has a 79 plate, so many modern regulations don't apply. I still have to find a home for the idiot lights, haven't decided where they will go just yet.
 

Bevelheadmhr

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The VTR Firestorm master cylinders I got off Ebay arrived, just had to order a replacement brake lever as that was missing. I wanted to use Goldline Brembos, but they were three times the price, even for rough ones with no levers and pots. Not sure about the plastic reservoir pots on these, they look a bit out of place. There are loads of aftermarket ones, or may try to make a pair to match the clocks. Looks like I've sold my Triumph Speed Triple this week, so progress should speed up a bit when I get the money from the sale.
 

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