"Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer

[1sttimer]

good ! yeah i have tried delrin tho and it is too hard, noisy as fook
have the correct spring rate on the shocks will make a diff as well as far as you will be riding with 1-1/4"+ of wheel travel used up
the only time it really is going to rub is off throttle/barking situations when it will be a slappin' ;D
make sure you run enough slack also, with the longer shock you will show a LOT more slack in the chain on the centerstand,full drop, correctly tensioned

Thanks sir. I will definitely make sure I have enough slack. Now that I don't have to worry about rubbing with the chain guard in place, I'll let the slack out so it intentional rubs on the slider.

Thanks for the help!

 

[1sttimer]

Got a lot of little stuff done tonight. I ordered a lot of random stuff from eBay and it all came in. Mounted up a CL70 exhaust bracket that I needed to modify. It worked out well and keeps the exhaust away from the shock

Also I bought some new fuel line and some inline filters. The filters were HUGE!! Way too big, they got in the way. I like the red accent with the fuel line. I also got some PVC tubing for the carb overflow and routed it out the bottom of the frame under the engine.

Also got my coil mounted. I need to check with Sonreir about how to hook that up. I'm lost there. My white wire from my harness goes to either the black or the red wire on the coil. Not sure which.

 

[Sonreir]

White wire from the harness to the black wire on the coil. Although there is a "correct" way to hook up the coil, it's not 100% important as the coil will function either way. You could also hook up the red wire and everything should still work.

 

[1sttimer]

White wire from the harness to the black wire on the coil. Although there is a "correct" way to hook up the coil, it's not 100% important as the coil will function either way. You could also hook up the red wire and everything should still work.

Cool. Thanks man. So where does the wires from the EI connect in or come into play? Am I going to have the red left open?

Also, hope you had a fun trip! Costa Rica is a cool place

 

[Sonreir]

EI will probably connect to the other wire on the coil. Consult the directions though. Most aftermarket systems will be designed to swap right in place of the points, but not all. Some systems may wish to control power to the coil rather than switch the ground.

 

[Steaksauce]

This is turning out great, makes me want to tear mine back down and start all over, great job and love the attention to detail. Quick question, where are you putting the battery or are you doing a delete?

 

[1sttimer]

This is turning out great, makes me want to tear mine back down and start all over, great job and love the attention to detail. Quick question, where are you putting the battery or are you doing a delete?

Steaksauce, thank you very much. This is my first time around. I am just trying to keep my head above water

As for the battery, I will not be eliminating it. I suppose I could try, but I have space under the cowl. I have a welded-in tray above the wheel that will hold the battery and the electric ignition module. Both of those components will be velcroed down.

 

[1sttimer]

Is there something that ties the kickstart through the transmission? Or does it go straight to the crank?

The reason I ask is that I can't get my kickstart lever to turn. I have the bike in neutral, and the gears shift just fine statically. Should I have the clutch pulled to disengage the kickstarter to get it to move? I feel like there's a lock or something keeping it from rotating. Not sure where to go from here.

 

[Sonreir]

The kicker goes through the clutch to the transmission. If the clutch is pulled in, the kicker doesn't work. Kicking the bike requires that bike be in neutral and the clutch lever released. If you pull the right side engine case, you can sometimes see any problems. Unfortunately, any problems usually require the engine to be removed and the bottom case opened.

 

[1sttimer]

The kicker goes through the clutch to the transmission. If the clutch is pulled in, the kicker doesn't work. Kicking the bike requires that bike be in neutral and the clutch lever released. If you pull the right side engine case, you can sometimes see any problems. Unfortunately, any problems usually require the engine to be removed and the bottom case opened.

I was afraid of that. I can rotate the lever about 5-10 degrees and it just hits a hard stop. I had the engine rebuilt by a professional that I trust, but people make mistakes. He stands by his work so maybe I should just take it back to him.


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[Sonreir]

If you pull the left engine cover and rotate the engine (in neutral), do you get any binding? Or only when you use the kick start?

 

[1sttimer]

If you pull the left engine cover and rotate the engine (in neutral), do you get any binding? Or only when you use the kick start?

Rotate with a wrench? I'll do that this afternoon. Now I have to take that daggum CL exhaust off again... I'll update tonight.


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[Sonreir]

Yup. Try to do two full rotations.

If no binding then you know it's just an issue with the kicker mechanism. If you still get the binding then it's something more serious and I'd bring it back to your engine guy.

 

[kopcicle]

He does great work. I wish I knew all of the things he is capable of.

no you don't

http://www.xs650chopper.com/2009/12/how-to-lace-a-wheel-from-scratch/

That link was given to me by haircuttergirl. Thanks!

Ha!

Great work so far and by all means allow the builder to have a look . Do Not force the engine through the obstruction . If you haven't done this before or don't do it often it is very easy to get the cam and crank "out of phase" . I've done it several times (but caught it) so don't be too hard on your builder . It happens .

~kopS

 

[1sttimer]

Yup. Try to do two full rotations.

If no binding then you know it's just an issue with the kicker mechanism. If you still get the binding then it's something more serious and I'd bring it back to your engine guy.

Ok so I took the alternator cover off and had no issues turning the motor over manually. I watched the intake and exhaust valves actuate and the pistons rise and fall 4-5 times or so. It took a little effort to turn the motor over (probably because I haven't added oil, there's only assembly lube).

Should I now remove the right cover and see what's going on? I can post pictures pretty easily of what's inside.

Side note, stainless fasteners are supposed to be loctited in the casings due to dissimilar materials correct?

 

[Sonreir]

All correct.

 

[1sttimer]

Well, not much to see there. Spring looked to be in place. Let me know if you see something out of whack.

 

[1sttimer]

When I try to kick, it wants to turn the clutch basket but hits a hard stop.

 

[Sonreir]

Does the spindle rotate with the case off?

 

[1sttimer]

When you say spindle, you mean the splined shaft? If so, yes. It behaves the same way with or without the case on. The only rotation it goes through is the initial winding of the spring.