"Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer

When you say spindle, you mean the splined shaft? If so, yes. It behaves the same way with or without the case on. The only rotation it goes through is the initial winding of the spring.
 
Sounds like the bottom end should come off.

On the plus side, it's pretty to do.

Get the oil drained (I think you said it was dry anyway), and then flip the engine upside down on the work bench. All the bolts come out of the bottom of the case (there might be one or two really long ones going through from the top, too), and then the cases come apart. The transmission, crank, etc should all remain resting in the top half.
 
Dang, would it have anything at all to do with my clutch not being adjusted at all, or even installed?
 
Probably not.

There is a set of gears on the inside of the engine case that mesh with the transmission that allows your kicker to turn the engine over. Sometimes they bind if an engine has been disassembled and then reassembled incorrectly.

Here's what things look like on the other side of the engine cases:

honda-cb175-super-sport-175-k7-1973-usa-kick-starter_bigma000159e17_1768.gif
 
Thanks Aircoolin. I'm happy with everything except the ratty old front brake and clutch cables I'm using until I can get Motion Pro to provide some shorter ones.
 
Out of curiosity, what do people typically do with wires not being hidden by aftermarket headlights? My aftermarket headlight doesn't have the typical huge hole in the back to be able to cram all the left over wiring in. Right now I have the extra wires precariously sitting behind the bucket. Since it's a naked bike you can see it and I'd like to tuck them away somewhere.

Any ideas?
 
Small aluminum wiring box (like something from Radioshack) painted black to blend in? When I did my wiring harness on my 350 I was able to make the wires a suitable length to tuck up most everything under the tank. If the box is a no go perhaps you could make some pigtails to extend the wiring enough to hide it.
 
That's a good idea. The headlamp really needs to be closer to the clocks so there's less visible space there. That would make a huge difference to the look because the wires are less visible.

Are you fitting fenders and a fork brace soon? Hint: the correct answer is yes. :)
 
BarnBurner said:
Small aluminum wiring box (like something from Radioshack) painted black to blend in? When I did my wiring harness on my 350 I was able to make the wires a suitable length to tuck up most everything under the tank. If the box is a no go perhaps you could make some pigtails to extend the wiring enough to hide it.

That's a good idea. I like the under the tank thing too. I'll try that first. I have the harness on the right side of the bike now. It may be better suited to be on the left to avoid the coil.

I guess I'll just have to take the front accessories off and see what I can do.

I was just wondering if people disassembled aftermarket lights to tuck stuff inside.
 
teazer said:
That's a good idea. The headlamp really needs to be closer to the clocks so there's less visible space there. That would make a huge difference to the look because the wires are less visible.

Are you fitting fenders and a fork brace soon? Hint: the correct answer is yes. :)

Haha yes! My front fender that I cut down is on it's way back from o1marc being PC'd black (as well as the heat shields) and I am waiting on a CB550 fender from a forum member that I'm going to cut down for a rear swing-arm mounted fender.

I agree about the lamp being too far out. I cheaper out on some dinky ears and how I'm paying the price for that.

When you said "good idea" to barnburner were you referring to hiding the wires under the tank or the aluminum box route?
 
The box. Plus you may be able to stuff some of the connectors inside the new headlamp shell.

Good answer on the fenders. Bonus points there.
 
Not as bad as hacking off the back end of a frame in time to change your mind and try to stick it back on. That's why I need at least 2 frames for every build.
 
teazer said:
Not as bad as hacking off the back end of a frame in time to change your mind and try to stick it back on. That's why I need at least 2 frames for every build.

We all change our minds halfway through.
 
Found this little guy. Looks like it'll do the trick and look sleek at the same time!! Thanks fellas.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062281&numProdsPerPage=60#
 
1sttimer said:
Found this little guy. Looks like it'll do the trick and look sleek at the same time!! Thanks fellas.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062281&numProdsPerPage=60#

Get that and drill a couple holes in each end and put some grommets in it. That way you can can put the connectors inside the box and close it all up nicely.
 
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