"Patina" The 1973 CB175 Cafe Racer

[jaythornton000]

No jamming required.

These are also 1 1/2in 1-1 pipes I used initially.

What muffler is that?

 

[1sttimer]

ACM, correct me if I'm wrong but it's an EMGO shorty?


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[o1marc]

What muffler is that?

Generic universal shorty muffler, made by lots of places:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Chrome-12-Shorty-Motorcycle-Silencer-Exhaust-Can-Muffler-/370943835454?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item565df9bd3e

 

[1sttimer]

If it weren't winter I'd make you a set. It would take me some time to pick the days with better weather. I have a heater, but I don't like to weld with the garage door closed.

Stick with it, hopefully you can find someone with the skills to give the materials to.

Ok brother sounds good. How about this...could you give me the Popular Mechanics instructions for the 1-1? From what it looks like, you have a 180 bend going straight into the cylinder head and a straight of about 1.5 feet butt welded to the other end. Then you have a slight bend (maybe 7 degrees?) going to the exhaust.

Couple of questions....

1. Do you have the curled flange that holds the exhaust to the head that comes stock on the end of the stock header or is it straight pipe that butts right against the head?

2. What radii is your 180 bend?

3. What OD is your tubing (1-1/2?)

4. What is that little kick up bend at the end of the exhaust before the muffler?

Thanks again man! I understand not welding indoors...ha!



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[jaythornton000]

Generic universal shorty muffler, made by lots of places:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Chrome-12-Shorty-Motorcycle-Silencer-Exhaust-Can-Muffler-/370943835454?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item565df9bd3e

Thanks!

 

[acm177]

Ok brother sounds good. How about this...could you give me the Popular Mechanics instructions for the 1-1? From what it looks like, you have a 180 bend going straight into the cylinder head and a straight of about 1.5 feet butt welded to the other end. Then you have a slight bend (maybe 7 degrees?) going to the exhaust.

Couple of questions....

1. Do you have the curled flange that holds the exhaust to the head that comes stock on the end of the stock header or is it straight pipe that butts right against the head?

2. What radii is your 180 bend?

3. What OD is your tubing (1-1/2?)

4. What is that little kick up bend at the end of the exhaust before the muffler?

Thanks again man! I understand not welding indoors...ha!



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1/3: The flange was cut off of a set of stock pipes, and slips into the 1 1/2" tube.

2: The radius of the 180 bend is 2 inches. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-12325hkr/overview/

4: the last bend is to keep the pipe as close to the bike and as far away from my leg as possible. It also points the muffler away from the shock.

The angles are pretty simple. These photos should explain how it goes.
I don't recommend the clampdown ring that I used. Make a flat steel flange.

If you have a cad program I can send you the .dxf file so you can print it to scale.

 

[o1marc]

Weird that the second pic is sideways but if you click on it it brings it up enlarged and in it's correct orientation

 

[1sttimer]

1/3: The flange was cut off of a set of stock pipes, and slips into the 1 1/2" tube.

2: The radius of the 180 bend is 2 inches. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-12325hkr/overview/

4: the last bend is to keep the pipe as close to the bike and as far away from my leg as possible. It also points the muffler away from the shock.

The angles are pretty simple. These photos should explain how it goes.
I don't recommend the clampdown ring that I used. Make a flat steel flange.

If you have a cad program I can send you the .dxf file so you can print it to scale.

ACM, thanks for the photos and all of the information. I pretty much see how you did it now. Just for some clarification, my understanding is that you took the stock 1-3/8" OD headers and chopped them off an inch or so after the end (lipped flange). You then slid a 1-1/2" OD bend over the 1-3/8" header and welded it down. Did this cause any problems with the stock exhaust flange, with the OD being increased on the header pipe? I noticed you mentioned that in your post.

Also, what did you use for the little kick-out angle right before the muffler?

I'm thinking I may try to go a different route and just use 1-3/8" tubing from start to finish...then slip on a small section of 1-1/2" right before the muffler so it will have a snug fit. I suck at welding but I think I can tack it up just enough to take it to a shop for finish welding.

 

[acm177]

Sounds like a good plan.
Yes the flange is from the stock exhaust and stuffed in the end of the pipe. In my second set (2-1) I didnt do that as I didnt have a second set of flanges. Its just the 1 1/2in straight pipe on the gasket in the exhaust port.

If you can get some 1 3/8in pipe thats the better route as the smaller diameter will probably keep the character of the engine... Keep in mind that the stock pipe is double walled... so the ID is smaller.

The kick out is just the straight tube sliced a few times then bent, and stitched up. Inside I used a small baffle that fit the 1 1/2 in tube as well as the visible bolt on 'muffler'. I use this concept in the 2-1 as well with a bigger primary baffle. I dont like the crack of a loud bike.

 

[1sttimer]

ACM, thanks so much for all of the information. I believe I am going to give it a shot later on when I get the bike running. I'll go back to your information and see if I can get one done. For now, I stumbled across a sweet deal on eBay for a stock CL175 exhaust. The guy had it for $235 and I talked him down to $200 shipped to my door!

It has minimal rust, has both heat shields (which I have found to be very pricey by themselves). I hope to run with this setup with long velocity stacks for a while until I can build my own 2-1. I don't think I'm going to chop the CL pipes up. They look too good. Does anyone know about the exhaust note of this stock muffler? Am I going to be very disappointed with zero growl or is there a little bit of noise that they make stock? I will live with what I get no matter what because I like the look and the performance will be there, but just curious.

Also, over Christmas I hope to acquire a set of motobits rear sets and then the back end will be locked down. Also I'll be getting 1.9" mini gauges and at the first of the year, I'm ordering an EI so I can get my order to Matt in at Sparck for the harness. All will be complete...then I just have to order a throttle and cables.

 

[CafeRacersUnited]

Just scroll down to see it, but I made an inner tube for my pipes...

http://www.motor-forum.nl/forum/list_messages/353021/12/NX-650-Project-Bobber-meets-Supermoto-meets-Caf%E9-R-13.html

Hope it works haha

 

[1sttimer]

Ok, I haven't updated with some actual progress in a while. Lately, I've simply procured parts and tried to keep moving. My latest purchase is this (she said yes, and is still entirely supportive of the bike project):

So I'm trying to keep moving on this thing as much as my wallet allows. Since my last update, I have received DCC 1.9" gauges and some Motobits rear sets. Also picked up a DCC t-shirt that I'm wearing daily

Here's a shot of the front end as she sits. I lowered the clip ons a bit. I'll wait till I take her for a spin to raise the triple clamp back up to position.

I then went ahead and got to work on the rear sets. Unfortunately I sold my brake pedal and linkage with the needed spring and nut so I had to buy those from Honda. I'm also waiting for my badge clips to come in for the tank emblems.

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[1sttimer]

So here she is as she sits now.

Ah yes and until I can make my own exhaust, this puppy came in the mail today. I can't believe how good of condition it's in. It has some surface rust, of course. But I think I may keep it as is. I'm not sure what to do with surface rust in chrome unless you blast it and polish.

Thanks for looking!!


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[1sttimer]

Also, my plan is to order my electronic ignition from
Probe Engineering this coming week so I can get everything to Sonrier at Sparck to make a custom harness.

The one thing I'm struggling with is the front brake switch. I am going with aftermarket levers and perches that don't have a spot for a switch. I bought a switch to see if I can drill a hole through the perch and glue it in place. How have you all solved this? Or did you just run without a front brake switch?


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[o1marc]

The shortest sentence in the world is "I am." Know what the longest sentence in the world is?............. "I do".

Bike is coming along nicely.

 

[1sttimer]

The shortest sentence in the world is "I am." Know what the longest sentence in the world is?............. "I do".

Bike is coming along nicely.

Ha, it was risky putting that news up on a forum of 95% guys.


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[1sttimer]

Also, can someone tell me the best way to clean the drive chain? I've heard soaking in kerosene. Also, what are O-ring chains and do I have one??


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[origin8or]

Good looking bike. Anxious to see the completed project.

For cleaning I have always used a rag soaked in goo-gone (http://googone.com/) and some elbow grease, as it's a citrus based cleaner and won't damage any of the o-rings. O-ring chains are the rubber o-rings built into the space between the outside link plate and the inside roller link plates, and yes you most likely have one.

 

[Barnburner]

I used aftermarket perches on my CL350 and for the front brake switch instead of relying on the post installed in the factory perch I used a front brake cable off of an early 350 (68 or 69) that has the switch built into the cable itself . I believe they used the same style for the early 175s too.

Edit: Found one here : http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Honda-Front-Brake-Cable-Grey-Gray-CB-175-CB175-K3-K4-45450-235-671-/370910362194?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565bfafa52&vxp=mtr

 

[1sttimer]

Good looking bike. Anxious to see the completed project.

For cleaning I have always used a rag soaked in goo-gone (http://googone.com/) and some elbow grease, as it's a citrus based cleaner and won't damage any of the o-rings. O-ring chains are the rubber o-rings built into the space between the outside link plate and the inside roller link plates, and yes you most likely have one.

Thanks for the kind words. I will definitely use Goo Gone. That seems like a safe alternative for sure.


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