"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

JoeTee said:
is that cleared? I was hoping for more of a matte low gloss finish. If its cleared, what kind of clear? thanks.
you could try wetsanding with 400 or 600 grit maximum. You just have to make sure you do it evenly and it should come out fairly matte looking.
 
Through more experience, I have determined that using acetone is never really a good idea, I suggest only using denatured alcohol as acetone tends to have adverse effects on some paints and surfaces while I have never had this problem with denatured alcohol.
 
I would just like to pop in and toss a +1 on that! denatured alcohol is the way to go... only time i use acetone is when it is just bare metal, but lately i have not even used that, just wipe it with denatured alcohol, then lint free rag and tack cloth, shoot away!
 
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Good ole rustoleum Cobalt Metallic. :)
 
Hey Twisted,
I've spray bombed a few projects in life so I know the basics, But? I don't understand the differences between enamel and lacquer paints, other than you don't mix the two.( I've never really tried to figure it out and nobody I've askd has given a clear answer) can you give the pros and cons of each and which one gives better end results, and works better for the DIY garage grease monkey.

Also I've seen references to a 2K? clear? Is that the same clear that Troy used on his 360 bobber project (the brown version). And is the clear a lacquer or enamel or does it matter?

If this was covered in this thread I missed it, sorry, just point me in the right direction then instead of having to type out a long answer :D

Thanks, Sean
 
Sean, the 2k clear is what Troy used and it is an actual 2 part paint. The can has a reservoir in the bottom of it that contains the hardener/catalyst. You use the special cap from the can to puncture the reservoir and release the catalyst into the paint. Once the reservoir has been punctured you have something like 12 hours to use the can. This is really good stuff, I have gotten to where I keep two cans in my shop at all times.

On the lacquer vs. enamel, well it comes down to preference really. Lacquer to me is thicker, levels better, and takes less overall work. It also gives you a real warm tone of color. I find lacquer to work better for a vintage look and using dark or warm colors. Enamel is easier to use if you are doing effects or multilayer paint jobs. Also enamel gives you a much glossier effect when done right. For example, let say you wanted a solid black bike, gloss, no fancy stuff...well then I would go with lacquer. If you were to use enamel you could get a real nice shiny gloss black, but they would look different. The best way I can explain this it the finish just has a different luster, like polished nickel vs. chrome. The lacquer will give you a warm ambient glow like the polished nickel will, while the enamel with loads of clear will give you the pop of chrome.

I have never used the 2k clear on lacquer, so I am not sure what the result would be, but the 2k works great on enamel. The real trick is you have to allow the paint to fully gas out before using the 2k on it. I like for it to sit 7 days in a warmish dry area (70-80 degrees).
 
DONT use either go with basecoat/clearcoat or an urathane b/c is a 2 stage paint, U is a single stage paint. You cant get it in a spray can but you can shoot it outta a 14 dollar gun from harbor freight and a little compressor. Lacquer and enamel went out with dicsco. b/c is pretty much goof proof!!!
 
fishdogy said:
DONT use either go with basecoat/clearcoat or an urathane b/c is a 2 stage paint, U is a single stage paint. You cant get it in a spray can but you can shoot it outta a 14 dollar gun from harbor freight and a little compressor. Lacquer and enamel went out with dicsco. b/c is pretty much goof proof!!!

I must have missed the DTT decoder pin it takes to decipher this message! :-\
 
fishdogy said:
DONT use either go with basecoat/clearcoat or an urathane b/c is a 2 stage paint, U is a single stage paint. You cant get it in a spray can but you can shoot it outta a 14 dollar gun from harbor freight and a little compressor. Lacquer and enamel went out with dicsco. b/c is pretty much goof proof!!!

Well fish the thread is titled "rattle can"so I think people reading this, are looking for what is posted here. If you have a good system, you can write up a thread, and put a link here, for those who want to check out other options.
That would be cool. 8)
 
Anyone ever paint a tank with the rustoleum stainless steel appliance paint? I'm going to do my tank in it but I have to wait until the weather is warmer.
 
mookie, I have not used the SS color, but I have used black and white rustoleum appliance epoxy, it is really good stuff! I have found though that it sometimes reacts bad with some other paints if you are planning on doing a multi-layer job!
 
mookieo2 said:
Anyone ever paint a tank with the rustoleum stainless steel appliance paint? I'm going to do my tank in it but I have to wait until the weather is warmer.

Woah! I didn't even know that they made a stainless steel paint... I was going to just strip my paint and clear it, but painting it may be easier!
 
I was going to do this exact same thing...seems like an easy way to avoid rust and still get that naked look...
 
Gotta say that the Stainless Appliance color is gorgeous! Unfortunately, I have to respray because my body work is shit but the color itself is phenomenal. I love it.
 
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