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I have never used the Alvin brand, but from all of my experience with high temp paint from a rattle can, you will only get good results if you bake it several times quickly after spraying. I say follow the directions on the can. With the Rustoleum brand ceramic stuff, it works well if you follow the directions they list for baking. I also recommend not using you home oven that you make food in; rather find an oven that is dedicated for parts use.
a sneaky preview of my spray can paint job. I just ordered one more can of flip/flop color and a can of the spraymax clear...oh yeah, this will be finished soon...
Just read through this entire thread and it is super helpful. Thanks!
I was surprised not to see any posts about painting wheels.
I'm painting a set of mags from an XS400 and had a coupla questions.
What benefit does sanding between coats have? Seems like doing so with these wheels would be a huge pain. The surface of the wheels is pretty rough and there are lots of nooks and crannies so not sanding would be cool. I plan on painting it with the VHT flat black wheel paint over the VHT etch primer. I plan on hanging the wheels in my garage and laying down paint after heating it with a propane heater. Of course, I'll be shutting off the heater before painting, but I worry that it will cool down very fast once the heater is off and the door is open. Also, the humidity has been pretty high out here. Will the heater cut the humidity at all?
Also after the paint dries I was thinking about carefully using the propane heater (its a tank top heater) to cure the paint.
The wheels were stripped with aircraft stripper and have been washed in my bathtub a couple times with dish soap. I plan on scuffing with a red scotch-brite and prepping with mineral spirits and tack cloth.
I would not use that method for the wheels, frame and all of that stuff. That is really intended for a flat smooth glass style finish on body work like tank fenders and side covers. If you check in the links back on the second or third page you will find links to wheel painting and epoxy paint. The epoxy paint is a great rattle can solution for wheels and frames.
your best bet is goign to be to bring those wheels in somewhere wiht a temp of 60* or highter... paint does not atomize as well if the temp is too low it is more than just crap cure times... i the propane tank heater will not cut it... i would say shoot them and bring them inside to cure... be sure you PMT (part metal temp) is room temp as well or the paint will want to run on you... mainly people color sand when they have runs or un even surface in the part they are painting... on rims do not worry about it
Twisted-I missed those links thanks. I'll probably lay down 3 or 4 light coats of the etch primer and wheel paint instead of the method you outlined. I'll definitely keep your method in mind when painting my tank.
While the VHT wheel paint isn't an epoxy, it is a polyurethane paint which apparently is more UV resistant. As I understand it, epoxies tend to chalk up over time because of a lack of UV resistance. I did a little bit of research and even spoke to a VHT rep which ultimately led me to go with their wheel paint, even though he was a little vague and admitted that some of the differentiation between their product lines was purely marketing!
JRK-The propane heater is actually pretty friggin hot if you're anywhere near it. I was thinking of sittin a meat thermometer in the valve stem hole to get a general (not accurate) temp reading and getting 'em a little warmer than room temp before shooting. I planned to do this with the cans too. I'll probably let em dry to the touch in the garage with the heat on once I'm done spraying, then move em inside to cure because I'm leaving town for a week. Any point in heating them to cure after a week or two at room temp?
Did I read somewhere in these 27 pages that the Maxx 2K doesn't work with Dupli-Color paints? Is it all Dupli-Color or just some of the "effects" paints?
I used the M2K with Testors model paint and it worked great. Too bad the tank had a hole in it...Doh!
I'm thinking of trying a rattle can job again and just wanted to clarify what paint(s) the Maxx 2K will and will not work with.
This thread was a great way to kill some time at the office this morning!
I am looking to try out a rattle can job on an extra tank, fork ears and side-covers I purchased as "change of clothes" for my bike.
I have heard in the past of people getting a great rattle can job done then ruining it the second a drip of gas gets on their tank. Did they just do it wrong or is there something that can be done to avoid gas damage on the tank?
I am looking to do a nice silver finish and add decals so it will resemble a stock CB350 paint job in non-stock colors.
After skimming through the entire thread, I did try searching page by page for the term "gas" before asking this question, so I apologize if it has been addressed.
still needs a good buffing but I think it turned out ok...thats about 4 cans of duplicolor mirage and a can of the spraymax 2k clear (lovin' that stuff!)
Trigger, I believe the directions for spraying flat are on the second or third page, if you have any question feel free to ask. I know this thread is long, but I believe spray bombing has been pretty well covered in here if you can find time to read through it.
I did a rattle can paint job here with the flat black. I spilled gas on it once ( more like down pour), and it still held up good. I just put a real dull clear on it to give it a little protection.
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