"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

Why do that when you can just do this , shhhhhhhhhh, it seems nobody knows about this yet so it's still cheap. They will mix any color you want into the can and it works wonders !Its a 2k so it is as durable as any premium auto paint. Sprays excellent . For motorcycles its the only way to go , try it and you will mark this as problem resolved.

http://www.66autocolor.com/SprayMax_2K_Aerosol_Auto_Paint_p/spm-mix2k.htm

I wasted/experimented with other options but this is the BEST solution, and no I do not work for them ....
 
Who has used the spraymax 2k clear with good results? Yesterday I used 1 can to clear a largish tank, fender, and seat. I got 3 coats on everything. I wasn't really sure how heavy to lay it but I tried to keep the can 6-8 inches from the parts. The clear has dried nice and hard and is quite glossy. But, I have some pretty nice orange peel. I started wetsanding 1 part with some 1000 grit but I'm nervous I'm going to sand through into my paint. But, how do I know if I'm getting close to sanding through all the clear?

I've got an extra can of the spraymax; I'm thinking of just laying 3 more coats down. Should I try to smooth everything before I put more clear on? I hate to use another $20 can if I don't need to, but I just really don't want to sand into the metallic paint.
 
If there is still orange peal, then your not close to sanding through it. You can keep sanding it until it is smooth, then buff it.....you will be pleased with the result!
 
Sweet!! I stopped by an Ollies store close to my job at lunch and they had the duplicolor mirage paint sets for 3 BUCKS. They only had 2 of my silver/green color that I want to use but still 3 bucks! I'm going back tomorrow to buy more stuff..they had a bunch of krylon mystique kits too, but only in the blue/purple color...3 bucks also

That gives me about 3 cans of the silver/green flop I want, which should be enough for the minimal amount of plastics on the Buell...now I just need some 2k clear...
 
Just so everyone knows....

I painted my frame with rustoleum and cleared it with Spraymax 2k

Despite all the rumors I have not had any problem with color lifting off, flaking or cracking.

Did it about 3 months ago and it looks as good now as it did when I applied it!!!!

I did wait about 2 weeks after the rustoleum to apply the clear.
 
I was told to spray clear right after the final coat so they'll bond better. Oh well. Turned out awesome.
 
dirtbag said:
I was told to spray clear right after the final coat so they'll bond better. Oh well. Turned out awesome.
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that is the best thing to do dirtbag, hit it with clear while wet so you can sand it to a smooth finish without sanding into the color if your using metal flake paint. You could still do this as long as you use the regular spray bomb clear on the wet color spray. then give all that time to gas out good before wet sanding and coating with the 2K!
 
Well I was a busy man this weekend....
BuellPaint6.jpg

BuellPaint3.jpg

BuellPaint4.jpg


So far on the fairing its been based/cleared then sanded with an 1800 grit pad then based/cleared again and its going to get sanded with a 2400 grit pad then I plan to add some stripes and clear, then another polish then the 2k..this is all from cans too. The tank cover and fender are just initial base and clear with the first round of 1800 grit to smooth it all out.

These paints are all duplicolor mirage silver-green and the clear that comes in the kit. This color is beautiful in the sun!, it has such a nice range of color shift.

anyway rattle can bling is where its at guys

Gray
 
Yep, that fairing looks great! Good work! If all of it comes out like the fairing did, that thing is going to look like a paint shop did it! Be sure to post final pics....I can't wait to see them!
 
thanks guys, I'm proud of my work so far...I hope to get the rest done..minus the 2k this weekend. I'm deciding against stripes...i'm afraid if I screw them up then I screw up the nice paint underneath..besides color-shift paint is enough on its own to not need stripes.
 
I'm practicing with some Rustoleum Ultra Cover.
Thicker than normal rattle can paint.
The cut down Suzuki mudguard is now 'Apple Red' ;D
No pics yet, going to flat and clearcoat it first.
 
tough to read through the whole thread when I'm just looking for one thing...has anyone used engine clear for their clearcoat?
 
Engine clear will not do anything better than reg clear unless you bring it up to operation temp, that is when high heat paint fully cures... without bringing up the temp to operation then you are just using a uncured paint and you are better off using a reg clear
 
ack. Well I ask because after clearing my tank a got a bit of gas on it and it ate right through the clear coat. Engine clear is cheaper than that 2k stuff everyone is talking about. I figured I could just lay it on and not worry about gas eating the paint now.
 
pawn said:
ack. Well I ask because after clearing my tank a got a bit of gas on it and it ate right through the clear coat. Engine clear is cheaper than that 2k stuff everyone is talking about. I figured I could just lay it on and not worry about gas eating the paint now.
Click to expand...

Nope, that wont work.....good thinking though!
 
Ive been throwing around ideas for my paint scheme and im def going to do a rattle job. I've looked thru the thread and didnt see anything about getting a pearl effect. I was thinking white base with a red pearl and clear. Any way to rattle this? Other question is using this Rustoleum metallic on my frame, I love the color. It looks to have a kinda semi gloss/matte finish that I would like on my frame. Would you recommend clearing this too?

photo55.jpg


Thanks!,

Joe
 
is that cleared? I was hoping for more of a matte low gloss finish. If its cleared, what kind of clear? thanks.
 
hmmm, that is a good question, i know i polished it up a bit.

I did not clear the seat, because it is not done yet, and it still had some gloss to it.
 
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