"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

[tWistedWheelz]

^ass!

 

[LittleKip]

No, no, that totally make Since .

Thanks for the advice, like I said, it was my first try and I knew I made some mistakes. It's nice to know where I made them so I can correct that next time. I'm just gonna polish it and let it go for now. I want to get it running right and get it titled as soon as possible, so I'm gonna ride with it like that for now and either deal with it later this season, or come fall. But I appreciate the advice. I totally dry coated it.

Although, what are my options at this point? Can I just wet sand it and try clear coating it again? Or will that F it up more?


BTW: I finally remembered my Digital camera. So here are a some better shots. There is dust on it in the photos...

Not great, but I can live with it for now...

 

[tWistedWheelz]

kip, if you have no clear on it yet, I would just wet sand it good then start back with some on the color coating and then go into clear!

If you do this and follow my direction in the first post of this thread, you should be fine!

It is not as bad as it looked in the first pics!

If you do have clear, well, I would wet sand it real good, and then just go back to color coating again followed by clear!

Follow the recomended times in the first post to prevent dry coating!

Good luck!

 

[LittleKip]

Thanks! Yah, I do have clear on it. When I decide to re-paint I'll go back and take notes on the process, so I get a better product. For now I'm gonna let it slide as I'm just trying to get the bike back on the road, then I'm really going to tear into it.

 

[midnightcafe]

For anyone who doesn't have a heated space to paint:

Do all your prep work and place your bodywork indoors in a warm space along with your primer and paint. After it all warms up, take it out to your garage and paint. Depending on how cold it is you can bring the bodywork indoors between each coat or after three, and make sure to allow more time than indicated for each coat to dry. always keep your paint at room temperature before using.

 

[tWistedWheelz]

always keep your paint at room temperature before using.

Or warmer!

 

[JRK5892]

only right for me to post my rattle can bling... or NOT bling i should say

I shot semi gloss black and then mat clear


sanded it all down

first layer of plastic primer

block sanded that and coated it with a sandable primer

more block sanding and test fit to ensure it all goes together smooth

first round done
4 coats semi gloss black 4 coats matt clear

in the booth for the 2nd round
semi gloss black

after clear

mock up

 

[tWistedWheelz]

Nice work Joe! Now time to put some accents on there bro! Too much nice on that scoot for some ole boring black tins! Come on bro! Just a little more, its is soooo close, but don't hold back on her!

 

[JRK5892]

trust me she will get a bit more flair! exp after the ideas you tossed my way! i am digging that!

 

[danfr]

this thread is fantastic.

My frame and swingarm are getting sandblasted today! All the rust will be gone but there may be bits of paint still remaining. do i need to worry about using a self etching primer, then primer?

buddy at the automotive parts shop was positive i would need a self etcher, but i would trust the word of you guys here. i just want to be sure as there may be some original paint.

THANKS!

 

[JRK5892]

I would just use a self etching primer and you will be good! depends what kind of paint you are shooting to be honest. if you shoot an epoxy base i would not use any primer at all

 

[danfr]

I bought two different colours:

Preference:
Rustoleum Universal Metallic Spray Paint
http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=181


2nd Choice
Universal Gold Engine Enamel
http://www.plastikote.com/products/Specialty/Engine-Enamel.html

what say you, oh wise guru of paint. what do you think would take better and last longer?

 

[JRK5892]

on the frame i would not use an engine enamal, unless you plan on baking it. the paint is too brittle till it is heated and cured, also that is when the paint is resistant to gas and oils. if the top one you go with is your choice i would say a etching primer is a MUST

 

[tWistedWheelz]

perfectly sound advise Joe!

 

[danfr]

do you think the rustoleum will look like balls? i was really gunning for the dark gold frame. but it would be pointless if it flakes off.

cheers.

 

[JRK5892]

just do not use an engine paint, dupi color makes some great gold colors, just be sure you use a goooooood clear!

 

[tWistedWheelz]

Rustoleum will not look like balls if you use the right stuff, the right methods, and take your time! Deviant1's bike is all rustoleum! Frame, tins, motor! All! Now, the engine high temp paint does not work well on parts that don't go high temp, just like Joe explained! So, find some that is not high temp! Also, for UV and chemical resistance, try the 2k clears over all of it!

 

[danfr]

i'm thinking 2k clear doesn't come in an aerosol?

well considering i don't have a spray gun and a proper place to paint, maybe i'll fork out the few hundred and get a pro to do it. And might as well look into powdercoating gold.

 

[tWistedWheelz]

2k does come in rattle! you need to look over this entire thread before you start! I promise it is well worth it!

And print the first page, use it while you paint!

 

[JRK5892]

we just powdered a frame in translucent gold! came out wicked!