"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

I have used the DC lacquer with thier enamal clear on a car repair and it worked fine. It requires the paint to be cured first but it doesn't lift the color or anything. I have yet to try the 2K clear but I am doing body work on my old Rav 4 to get it ready for inspection and it is metalic dark red that DC makes the paint for in lacquer and I want to use the 2K clear over it. If you can wait a couple weeks I will be trying it to find out. I will post results here once I finish. I have the bondo left to do on the new steel I put in the wheel well, just waiting for good enough weather to get that on there.

Cheers,

Maritime
 
Maritime Biker said:
I have used the DC lacquer with thier enamal clear on a car repair and it worked fine. It requires the paint to be cured first but it doesn't lift the color or anything. I have yet to try the 2K clear but I am doing body work on my old Rav 4 to get it ready for inspection and it is metalic dark red that DC makes the paint for in lacquer and I want to use the 2K clear over it. If you can wait a couple weeks I will be trying it to find out. I will post results here once I finish. I have the bondo left to do on the new steel I put in the wheel well, just waiting for good enough weather to get that on there.

Cheers,

Maritime

Oh man, a couple weeks huh? I might get to it before you since I'm really getting antsy....I'll do as much research as I can on the topic and probably try it in a week or so. Either way, one of us will learn from the other's experience.
 
i hope you guys hurry up ;D I plan on using DC lacquer on a multicolor job with 2K clear, so I planned on using lacquer clear to mix with the color stage then clear the whole thing with the 2K. Lets hope this works like the enamel.
 
I don't see myself getting around to it for atleast a week and a half from now....weather has been shitty and humidity has been really high whenever it's nice enough to paint.....Hope Maritime gets around to it.
 
Just discovered something kinda cool, everyone!

Has anyone ever used a t-shirt to smooth out rough surfaces??

Right now I'm wetsanding and prepping my rims to have their second coat applied, the spokes are kinda rough from overspray.

I had a scrap of t-shirt on hand and quickly relized that all this roughness can be easily smoothed down to a paint ready surface with a very small amount of elbow grease.

No solvents, no water, just a clean t-shirt. ;D
 
twisted, have you ever tried using really fine scotch brite on your clear coat before you buff it......we usually use that on spray gun clear and it gives a beautiful shine after buffing, just asking even though 1200 or 2000 grit sandpaper will give you about the same results...oh yeah and is ther a limit to how many coats of clear you can shoot ?
 
No limit on coats of clear! Just take you time and be sure to let it gas out fully after every few good wet coats or you will wind up with a very unsatisfactory wrinkle finish! As for SB pads, I use them all the time! I love them!
 
this is low gloss black dupi color 500*
idtbgo.jpg


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Hey Twisted...

so i'm thinking i wanna do my bike black with just a couple white strips down the middle..

my question.. can I paint the whole tank in rusty metal primer, then paint top white primer.. tape it off then paint primer black everywhere?

then just clear over the flat primer colors and it will come out shiney?
 
lok222 said:
Hey Twisted...

so i'm thinking i wanna do my bike black with just a couple white strips down the middle..

my question.. can I paint the whole tank in rusty metal primer, then paint top white primer.. tape it off then paint primer black everywhere?

then just clear over the flat primer colors and it will come out shiney?

afraid not buddy, if you want shiney and glossy then your going to need to paint it with a good gloss enamel and do all the sanding too, that is what makes it great! The first post in here is what you need to follow, but for multi-color or two-tone, you will need to alter the method to fit in the new colors....I think that method is explained on page two or three, I know it is here somewhere!
 
tWistedWheelz said:
afraid not buddy, if you want shiney and glossy then your going to need to paint it with a good gloss enamel and do all the sanding too, that is what makes it great! The first post in here is what you need to follow, but for multi-color or two-tone, you will need to alter the method to fit in the new colors....I think that method is explained on page two or three, I know it is here somewhere!

Thanks a lot man..
 
tWistedWheelz said:
afraid not buddy, if you want shiney and glossy then your going to need to paint it with a good gloss enamel and do all the sanding too, that is what makes it great! The first post in here is what you need to follow, but for multi-color or two-tone, you will need to alter the method to fit in the new colors....I think that method is explained on page two or three, I know it is here somewhere!

Hey, so if I got with black and white flat.. should I even clear? I guess the clear will still protect it some huh? would clearing over primer look wacked? lol
 
I have been ask to explain edge feathering, so I thought it would be good to have it in here. So here it is!

Edge feathering is a method used in multi-color painting to reduce the build-up of an edge from one color to the next. This is done by masking off your base coat leaving only the area you want a different color exposed. Once you have that area exposed, prep it for paint buy wet sanding, cleaning, and wiping down with tack cloth or lint free cloth. After the prep is done lay new masking tape over the line reducing the size by 1/8”, making the area to be painted smaller. Do this with two or three layers. Once you have the tape laid you can clean and tack again, then paint a few passes over that area. While the paint is still wet, remove the top most layer of tape revealing a 1/8” unpainted line. Allow the fresh paint to dry, then paint another coat and remove another layer of tape. Do this until you get to the last line of tape that will be your final edge. Once you paint that coat, hit it with a bit of clear (if your painting gloss finish) and remove that tape while the paint is wet. Allow this all time to cure….NOT DRY…..CURED!!! After a full cure, you can wet sand the entire part, sanding perpendicular to you transition line will help fade the buildup line and make it all flow smooth. Be careful not to sand too much and do this with 2000 grit. If your entire finish is to be gloss, then after you wet sand, prep and follow with your clear coat, 2k clear will work best!
 
tWistedWheelz said:
I have been ask to explain edge feathering, so I thought it would be good to have it in here. So here it is!

Edge feathering is a method used in multi-color painting to reduce the build-up of an edge from one color to the next. This is done by masking off your base coat leaving only the area you want a different color exposed. Once you have that area exposed, prep it for paint buy wet sanding, cleaning, and wiping down with tack cloth or lint free cloth. After the prep is done lay new masking tape over the line reducing the size by 1/8”, making the area to be painted smaller. Do this with two or three layers. Once you have the tape laid you can clean and tack again, then paint a few passes over that area. While the paint is still wet, remove the top most layer of tape revealing a 1/8” unpainted line. Allow the fresh paint to dry, then paint another coat and remove another layer of tape. Do this until you get to the last line of tape that will be your final edge. Once you paint that coat, hit it with a bit of clear (if your painting gloss finish) and remove that tape while the paint is wet. Allow this all time to cure….NOT DRY…..CURED!!! After a full cure, you can wet sand the entire part, sanding perpendicular to you transition line will help fade the buildup line and make it all flow smooth. Be careful not to sand too much and do this with 2000 grit. If your entire finish is to be gloss, then after you wet sand, prep and follow with your clear coat, 2k clear will work best!

Twisted, you are the man

thanks
 
Twisted:
I just finished reading through all of this thread... Great Information. I was looking to paint my bike flat black and have it professionally done in a high gloss black next year. This information is perfect to get me through my project. Thank you for all of the great information, and thank everyone else who has contributed with so many great questions and advice.

BTW, I found this information searching for google, and it is awesome that it brought me to this site. My first motorcycle was a 1975 CB400F that was setup for cafe racing. I got it when I just turned 16. Seeing a lot of the bikes on here brings back a lot of great memories of that bike. Anyways, I am now riding a Harley bagger now, and with all the painted parts it is seriously expensive to get the bike professionally painted, hence why I want to do an intirum nice paint job until I can save up for it.

JRK5892:
As mentioned before I was initially looking to just do a simple flat black, but I saw the semi-black with the matte clear and thought that gives a similar look, but can also provide some extra protection with the clear.

I was wondering what brand paint did you use for the color and the matte clear? I saw you when you first mentioned painting your bike semi-gloss black in regards to the air-brush work, but it didn't seem like you were sure if you were going to rattle-can it or spray it. I apologize if you did answer this, with all the deleted posts, it gets confusing in some areas. I assume the low gloss black duplicolor 500 was in reference to the engine paint and not the semi-gloss black.

There were only a couple posts on here that have posted their paint projects and it would be great for more information along those lines. Paint used, cure time, clear, etc. I hope more people can add. I will do my best to document my project with photos, times and products used.

Twisted (or anyone else):
If you have the time and resources, it would be great to make a youtube video of all the techniques you mentions. While you did a GREAT job explaining, visual instruction is often a lot better to follow.

Again, great thread and information, very valuable information..
 
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