"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

danfr, I made this thread and spent time to make it as easy as possible for people with little to no experience to get the best results they could from a rattle can! This whole thread is dedicated to using only simple tools and supplies to get a very nice quality paint job from a rattle can! You can get results that will astonish you, if you do it right! There is a ton of very good info in this thread, but since it has been here a while, there are many pages, and long to get through. I promise that you will be better for having gone through it though if you want great results from a rattle can!
 
BUSTED! i have skimmed over the thread a couple times but i'm usually on DTT at work. I will take the time and fully read the thread. I'm sure it'll answer a lot of my questions and save you guys some time. I do really appreciate your help!
cheers.
 
danfr said:
i'm thinking 2k clear doesn't come in an aerosol?

well considering i don't have a spray gun and a proper place to paint, maybe i'll fork out the few hundred and get a pro to do it. And might as well look into powdercoating gold.
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Try Spray Max 2k, I bought a can on Ebay for $28 shipped. Worked great.
 
Is it true that 2k clear will damage the rustoleum underneath?
I heard that from one guy on this board, and have researched it as much as I could stand looking at my computer, but I really cant find any definitive answer?
 
Makes the rustoleum wrinkle and crack, actually that is the case with almost any clear that is not rustoleum over a rustoleum color! I go by the principle:Iif you start with rustoleum, stay with rustoleum!
 
Wrinkle and crack huh?
Might sound stupid, but will it still adhere to the metal, or just slip off like I sprayed aircraft remover? I mean, I used hammered finish for the texture....any more texture would just be the shit.
 
Tristan said:
Wrinkle and crack huh?
Might sound stupid, but will it still adhere to the metal? I mean, I used hammered finish for the texture....any more texture would just be the shit.
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I am not sure on that one, never used the textured stuff and cleared it? Let me know what happens if you try it!
 
So I've been following this formula and it's been working great. Until last night - I've been using rustoleum paints and they seem to go on just fine. I've repainted my frame, did a bunch of odd parts in this nice satin black. I just painted my fender and tank with a white from the same paint line as the black. I'm going white gloss first - taping stripes down the center - then giving an under coat of satin black before laying a green flake over the top - then a whole lotta clear. So green flake with white stripes. Well, I layed the white, let it fully dry then taped my stripes. I thought sweet - now just paint over paint, same brand, same type, just a different color - should go on easy right?

Wrong. I got the wrinkle crack. it hasn't cracked really - but it looks like the pattern you see when clear coat cracks. Almost immediately too. Pissed me the hell off. Now I have to ditch the texture - which means sanding it all down and starting over. Not what I want to do considering the time involved in laying all these layers and letting them dry. Don't really have a choice.

What am I going to do different? Ditch f@ckin rust-piece-o-crap-eum paints. I think if you are going to just lay down one type of paint and nothing else they are fine. If you are going to do any layering though - screw 'em.

-PigPin
 
how much dry time did you allow and did you wet clear over your first coat?

You should have (if you did not) put on a couple coats of clear at the end of you color coating, then allowed dry time, I say three days, but it may take longer, and usually does with the rustoleum! It relly needs to gas out before you coat again, and if you read a rustoleum can, it says it gasses out for recoating after 7 days! That may be your problem, and to be honest, most spray bombs are that way!
 
I gave it 2 days - the kind I have says 24 hours for a re-coat - I thought doubling that would be more than sufficient. Also I didn't put down a layer of clear after the white, I thought I should do that after my final color - not after each layer. Though I guess it is final color where the stripes are.

Could I have gotten away with laying a primer over the white that's getting covered? - to separate the paint layers. I thought part of it could be due to the medium in the black breaking down the white and seeping in.

-PigPin
 
Laying clear over every color allows you to wet sad them all without smudging color paint over each other, no biggie in gun painting as you never sand into color, but with rattle you have to do all the sanding to keep it smooth.

If the can said 24 for re-coating you should have been good, but I have encountered the problem like you did, that is why I recommend at least three days for most paints.

I say lay no primer over any color paint! Primer is a little different chemically and could cause undesirable effects. The color coat you are going over should provide ample base for the next layer.
 
What was the humidity like where you were painting and drying? Temperature? I've had issues before with Tremclad and discussed it with their support team. If the temperature is colder than optimal and/or the humidity is high, the drying time is going to be longer.

As for laying different colours, I don't clear between colours and don't find any issues with colours running into each other. I feel you need to sand it at the point to knock down the edge, don't want to clear over the harsh edge created by the paint line. Just have to make sure the sanded paint residue is well cleaned off before clearing, don't want to seal that stuff in there :)
 
I've done alot of research on reustoleum paints, since I used it on my frame.
Apparently it can take rustoleum weeks or even monthes to fully dry...maybe because it's oil based.
the best way to tell is to press into it hard with your fingernail, if it leaves a mark then it's not dry.
Unlike normal enamel paints, rustoleum never actually cures, but just dries....so with the right amount of heat it can be brought back to liquid state....lame.
 
Tristan said:
I've done alot of research on reustoleum paints, since I used it on my frame.
Apparently it can take rustoleum weeks or even monthes to fully dry...maybe because it's oil based.
the best way to tell is to press into it hard with your fingernail, if it leaves a mark then it's not dry.
Unlike normal enamel paints, rustoleum never actually cures, but just dries....so with the right amount of heat it can be brought back to liquid state....lame.
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Now that is interesting and good to know!
 
Thanks for all the info guys - it's a great process. I guess one thing to add - or at least I'm adding to my process - Do a test first. I'm going to go find the paints I need in a different brand - and do a dry run on a spare section of fender. I never thought about paints having chemical issues with other paints. I guess I just figured spray paint is spray paint.
 
TwistedWheelz, I noticed in your write-up that you recommend spraying a coat of clear over a fresh coat of paint for better chemical bond.
Do you still recommend this if a 2k clear is being sprayed?
I'm afraid that it will lift and crack the paint if it isn't fully cured.
 
Tristan said:
TwistedWheelz, I noticed in your write-up that you recommend spraying a coat of clear over a fresh coat of paint for better chemical bond.
Do you still recommend this if a 2k clear is being sprayed?
I'm afraid that it will lift and crack the paint if it isn't fully cured.
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That is a good question that has not been brought up!

I do still recomend spraying a coat of non-2K clear over your wet color, if and only if you are using a multi-color-layer paint job. As said a few times before, this allows you a good sanding surface between the two and create a very good bond and strong paint coat.

Now if you are only using one color and are planning on using 2K clear, then I say DO NOT shoot the 2K onto wet rattlecan paint! Let your rattlecan paint cure for as long as you can, I say minimum 7 days before you coat with the 2K! If your rattlecan paint has not cured before you seal it with the 2K, you will have problems!

Now if you are doing a multi-color-layer job, do the clear in a regular clear non-2K until you have the whole thing finished and then aloow the whole paint job the 7-10 cure time. Wet sand, clean, prep, and then shoot with the 2K clear.

If you are going to let you color set with no clear, then after curing go straight into 2K clearing. Do not sand your last coat of the color before shooting the clear. If you want you can follow my exact plan as in the first post, but if you use 2K in the final stage (clear coating stage) just allow the part 7-10 days from the end of the "colorcoating stage" until you begin the "clear coating stage" and use the 2K instead of the regular clear. Remember too that the 2K sprays and coats differently so you will have to alter the spray pattern a touch and reduce your number of coats as the 2K coats heavier!
 
Wow man, thanks for taking the time to be super informative.
I'll take your advice, I mean, how can I not? You do a great job at writing tutorials and keeping it all clear in and in order.
Two more questions.
1. The color I wanted though duplicolor for my tank was only available in lacquer enamel, think it would do well with the 2k clear?
2. How do you feel about duplicolor acrylic enamel with 2k clear on rims?

Tristan
 
Tristan said:
Wow man, thanks for taking the time to be super informative.
I'll take your advice, I mean, how can I not? You do a great job at writing tutorials and keeping it all clear in and in order.
Two more questions.
1. The color I wanted though duplicolor for my tank was only available in lacquer enamel, think it would do well with the 2k clear?
2. How do you feel about duplicolor acrylic enamel with 2k clear on rims?

Tristan
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I like DC paints, thaey seem to cover really well! The lacquer may pose a problem when you mix it with any acrylic or the epoxy clear! I may try to find an acrylic enamel for it, I know it works. I have never tried the lacquer enamel before with clear of any kind, so you are sailing uncharted water there! The acrylic will be fine covered with the 2K and should be very strong!
 
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