SixtyNine!

I agree with Staffy, build it. Your sense of accomplishment will be all the greater. Plus it will be all your own ideas, without the donor fairing clouding the process. Either way, I look forward to watching the process.
 
Plus it may take you the same amount of time to get the donor fairing right.
 
Im with Staffy and Deacon. Also I think the problem solving that goes down while making your own fairing will teach you invaluable lessons.
 
Staffy said:
Plus it may take you the same amount of time to get the donor fairing right.

This is where my head is at... and I get to say I made it from scratch :) and save $250 (the savings is arguable at best... foam's not free)

I appreciate all the input from everyone btw, motivates me.
 
Make sure you document what you do so we can get some learning from it. I've spent the last two weeks looking for ways to make a plug on the bike bike but to no avail. In fact i couldn't fing any information on making fairing plugs at all. The more of us that do it and document, the more information (and in some cases misinformation) there is for us all to learn from.
 
boomshakalaka said:
what will you do about the window part? What material is typically used here?

That's a good question, It'll have to be acrylic or lexan (I can't polish polycarb) I will need to source a sizable vacuformer. We had one back in school so if I absolutely have to I can go up there... but that's 2200 miles and wont be happening. I'll have to make a female buck for it to draw down on. Female because if any junk gets between the mold and the part it will make a mark on the outside which i can sand and polish out... I'd rather polish a convex surface than a concave one.
 
awesome! I have thought threw the process when I have an idle mind, and I always got stumped by the window. I just figured if I ever did take on the task Id just have to build around an already made window. And ya, I had some concave surfaces on the seat I made for my build and had to do bondo in there.. man that sucked.
 
mysta2 said:
That's a good question, It'll have to be acrylic or lexan (I can't polish polycarb) I will need to source a sizable vacuformer. We had one back in school so if I absolutely have to I can go up there... but that's 2200 miles and wont be happening. I'll have to make a female buck for it to draw down on. Female because if any junk gets between the mold and the part it will make a mark on the outside which i can sand and polish out... I'd rather polish a convex surface than a concave one.

Build one. The most difficult part is how to evenly heat the acrylic.
 
Staffy said:
...The most difficult part is how to evenly heat the acrylic.

Yup, the vacume cleaner part is easy. I agree that it wouldn't be all that tough, but I don't anticipate finding a shop with one will be difficult and I'd rather spend my time building the bike than building the tools to make the parts for it... even more than that... I don't want to store it. I'm surrounded by a combined half century of experience in the exhibit industry so among my co workers someone knows where there's a vacume former that I can use.

:)
 
Slow and steady

framescreenshot2.jpg
 
A: PM me with an e-mail so I can send you some 3d bike Models. I took a look and a bunch of them are just fairings and wheels, no motors. They are in .3ds so you should be able to open them.

B: I have access to a 2'x2' Vacuform. If you need pics of the set-up let me know, or I can see about having some parts formed. It's in TN and I'm in VA, but I'll shoot my buddy an E-mail and see if he'd be willing to mess around with it. When I was in school there we made a wind screen for a Guzzi.

C: Call these people: http://www.sketch-lite.com/ They vacuform sizable stuff that could easily be a motorcycle fairing.

(note that if it's not a solid mold it will crumble. My friend in TN tried to cave a balsa wood R/C boat hull and vacuform that. It was splinters in seconds!)
 
I don't know if there's value in this... other than just to point out how bloody long it takes for me to model this thing:

framescreenshot3.jpg


Each one of these screenshots represents about 4 hours of late night work... I'm almost embarrassed to admit that.

Added the center downtube, yoke and the bottom tree along with forks of the proper length and added the proper height to the rear (The rear shocks on Loudbike sit loaded at 12.99 inches tall) With all the measurements in place for the frame I landed .4 inches outside my original wheelbase :mad: ... but the forks can still be slid up and down in the trees and I don't know for sure if that's quite right yet... hopefully there I can loose that half inch.
 
lescoulee said:
No pictures at the post referenced by the link?

I just tried the link and I was able to view the pics. I'm a member, maybe you have to have an account.

Here is the pic of interest:
picture.php
 
derant said:
I just tried the link and I was able to view the pics. I'm a member, maybe you have to have an account.

Here is the pic of interest:
picture.php

That's it. I just joined and now i can see the pics. Great little job he did there.
 
tobiism said:
Very, very cool. Why the change to the CB gearset?

I've figured in my own head and read that the gearset is one of the primary distinguishing features between the CL and CB, being that the CL is built as a sort of half-assed dirt bike while the CB is a street bike. I'm hoping that the CB set wont be as closely geared on the low end and will give me an easier and faster top speed. It's another sort of experiment and will make an interesting comparison between Sixty-Nine and Loudbike. I can't wait to dig into the case and visually compare the two sets to put this question to rest... assuming the set I bought is really a CB set as advertized.

[quote author=derant=topic=11779.msg106195#msg106195 date=1258236195]
Here is the pic of interest:
[/quote]

That one doesn't show either if not a member... for all that haven't, join up. There's a motorcycle section, very cool, although only about half the pics on the site seem to work even when joined... very frustrating.

[quote author=crazypj=topic=11779.msg106195#msg106195 date=1258236195]
I have a couple of 2000 suzuki screens
[/quote]

What are they made out of? What's it smell like when you cut it?
 
mysta2 said:
I've figured in my own head and read that the gearset is one of the primary distinguishing features between the CL and CB, being that the CL is built as a sort of half-assed dirt bike while the CB is a street bike. I'm hoping that the CB set wont be as closely geared on the low end and will give me an easier and faster top speed. It's another sort of experiment and will make an interesting comparison between Sixty-Nine and Loudbike. I can't wait to dig into the case and visually compare the two sets to put this question to rest... assuming the set I bought is really a CB set as advertized.

I'm interested in what you find out. I just buttoned my CL's bottom end back up. I'd be interested in a swap if it seemed beneficial.
 
mysta2 said:
I've figured in my own head and read that the gearset is one of the primary distinguishing features between the CL and CB, being that the CL is built as a sort of half-assed dirt bike while the CB is a street bike. I'm hoping that the CB set wont be as closely geared on the low end and will give me an easier and faster top speed. It's another sort of experiment and will make an interesting comparison between Sixty-Nine and Loudbike. I can't wait to dig into the case and visually compare the two sets to put this question to rest... assuming the set I bought is really a CB set as advertized.

Kit, I'm sure you know more about these than I do, but I was under the impression that the only difference in gearing between the CB and the CL is that the front sprockets were different, thereby lowering the gear ratio a little to make the CL more "off-roadable". Are you saying that the gearing inside the case is different too? Different ratios between the gears, etc. Interesting.... I've been trying to find some published specs that include gear ratios and haven't come across any... didn't look all that long, though. Might be worth doing if there's that much difference. Changing out the front sprocket is a quick and easy change and seems to make a bit of difference on top end and MPG.
 
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