SR500 RACE BIKE - Tracy body kit - Survivor - Ohio

der_nanno

Faster!
Yup, that little box is the CDI and your frame is missing the last 3 or 4 inches at the back, but it's just two frame ears, so nothing substantial.

The quickest (and safest) way to check the condition of the engine is to take off one of the rocker bolts, insert an M6 bolt into the rockershaft and try to rock it up and down. If there's no play you're in luck. If not, well, it's sort of standard to have worn out rockershaft bores in the head. The downside, the rockers and camshaft will most likely be toast as well.

I pinned them down with some set screws to get a bit of extra life out of them, but be aware that this is just an intermediate fix. If your engine-no is starting with 48T instead of 2j2 or 2j4, you should already have the improved head where the rockershafts are fixed into place and they can't spin in the head and thus elongate the holes anymore.

The other thing you can check quite easily is by removing the cap from the camchain adjuster (it's manual) and check how much thread is still available.

You can check the condition of the inductive coils by unplugging the 6-pin connector from the alternator and measuring the resistance (engine side of course) between brown and black and red and black. Both should yield in excess of 330 Ohms to be perfect, the bike will still fire up with readings around or just under 290 Ohms. It can be converted to battery ignition as I doubt you will be able to find a company will to rewind your coil. (Old TV- and radio-repairshops used to do that overhere...)
 

imwastefull

New Member
Awesome, thanks Der Nano. My engine starts with the 2j2 designation. To be perfectly honest, I'm going to jankily wire and fire the pig this evening/weekend and work on whatever fails or is broken. Wishful thinking that my motor isn't a heap of junk. ;)

We'll see!
 

der_nanno

Faster!
Both are the stock OEM parts and the coil... well even the new ones look like that.

Btw.: Due to the nature of the ignition setup, no alternative coil will work. (Except for an XT500 coil, which is identical, except for a different plug.)
 

imwastefull

New Member
Got her running!
I gave the carb a quick and dirty scrub, some fresh oil and fuel and WHAM she puts! Engine sounded strong, no knocks or ticks. She was certainly smoking a bit but I'm not worried about that right now.

Here's a link to a video of the first start. I hope it works. :-\

Sr500 first start https://imgur.com/gallery/lnShvPX
 

teazer

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Sounds good. That's a lot of smoke. Is there an oil leak or just oil on the outside to stop rust?
 

imwastefull

New Member
Yeah, the top end was smoking pretty bad. It was mostly coming from the header. I think it was just some shitty paint on the pipe. Also, for whatever reason, the whole motor is covered in a layer of oil or grease or wd40.... Ugh, who knows why. ???
 

CarbsAndCylinders

Careful With That Axe Eugene
teazer said:
Looks like an original DG, Calfab or similar aftermarket arm which is what the current ones are copies of. It really needs to be longer to work with that long tail section though.
I'll try to take a picture of my Calfab so you can compare. Beautiful weld on this piece!
 

teazer

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
imwastefull said:
Yeah, the top end was smoking pretty bad. It was mostly coming from the header. I think it was just some shitty paint on the pipe. Also, for whatever reason, the whole motor is covered in a layer of oil or grease or wd40.... Ugh, who knows why. ???
Could have been a leak or maybe the PO coated it in oil to protect against corrosion in storage.
 

imwastefull

New Member
alright boys, I'm going to need some help with the next bit. I need to figure out what front end I have so I can source brake lines and fork seals and the like.
I believe that I have a Gsxr 750 front end from the 90's. I found a very helpful website with pretty detailed photo's of gixxers through the years, here - https://www.totalmotorcycle.com/modelhistorytimelines/Suzuki-GSXR750-1996-1999-Page5?d=1

It seems that the earlier front ends have Nissin brakes (which I have) and later 90's years switch to Tokico. However, my Nissins are attached with a custom made bracket so i'm not sure if it's much of a qualifier. Suzuki probably used this front end for quite a while but I need to be certain to avoid buying the wrong parts. I'm hoping that there's a 90's GSXR fan on here that can help me identify my front end and possibly source the brake lines I need.

thanks brothers!
 

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adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
Looks right to me. You can also buy the components at Summit Racing and build your own brake lines.
 

imwastefull

New Member
advCo said:
You can also buy the components at Summit Racing and build your own brake lines.
Pffft, Summit is my secret weapon! I live 15 mins from their headquarters and i'm there all the time.
Yes, advCo, they're definitely pretty similar. Hoping someone knows for sure what year the front end is so I know exactly what parts to buy.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
I think the 1100 forks are 52 at the top and 750 are 50, both are 54 at the lower tree. I think all Gsxr forks 2004 and up are radial mount calipers so that quickly eliminates those.
 

1fasgsxr

New Member
You are probably running the correct caliper to the forks but because it looks like GS wheels they made an adapter to fit the rotors.
 
That fork style are found on ‘92-93 Gsxr600W, 90-95 Gsxr750, and 90/91(?)-98 Gsxr1100’s.

The calipers point to earlier years. The custom caliper bracket is most likely due to the brake rotor being smaller than the stock Gsxr rotor because of the wheel swap.

Later, Doug
 
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