1) this isn't the stock carb (but I guess you figured that out already) - would be interesting to see if it's a 36 or 38mm
2) This has not been run on alky as otherwise the mainjet would be VASTLY bigger.
You know, I meant to measure the carb while I had it out. I was curious as well. I still have to pull it and give it a proper scrub so I'm sure I'll put the calipers to it. I was just amazed at how green the bowl was. It blew my mind.
Chem dipped the shit out of the carb, rear master(which was frozen) and the petcock (which was ALSO frozen). They cleaned up pretty well and hopefully I won't have to buy a new petcock.
Bought a Kreem tank liner kit to clean and line the rusty tank. However, after letting the acid sit overnight, I drained it and it was the water ran out clear! Righteously confused, I rinsed the tank out and put a magnet to it and found out it isn't metal! The tank has a steel fuel bung but the whole tank is fiberglass. I'll post a picture so you can see for yourselves.
Also, I found out the mikuni is a 36mm. I was really pulling for a 38mm. Bummer.
Agree. The tank will need to be washed out to get a clean surface for the Caswell kit to bond to. I did a glass tank with Caswell and IIRC I flushed it out with acetone.
I had a Norton Commando in the shop a while back with bent valves caused by the resin leaching out of his glass tank into the fuel supply and coating the valve stems with a nice sticky glue. Ethanol in fuel is a problem for old school glass tanks.
And Kreem, as PIDJones said is horrible stuff. You would be picking that out of the whole fuel system for years to come.
Can anyone give me a lesson on SR500 rear master cylinders? Mine was frozen so I pulled it apart, cleaned it up but as expected, it's leaking still. However, to my surprise, rebuild kits and especially new master cylinders are like hens teeth! The ONLY rebuild kit I could find was $250 on eBay!
Anyone have some suggestions? Will an xs650 rebuild kit work? It looks pretty similar. Also, I think my MC is leaking from the cap. It looks in relatively good shape but I could hear pressure escaping. Anyone have a clever fix, or an old cap laying around?
Just a warning that if you get a China-origin MC, pull it apart, clean it up, and reassemble with brake fluid to lubricate everything. Two I've had so far (a front and a rear - one direct and one from US vendor) were both filthy and improperly assembled. Worked Ok after rebuild and correction. Good news is that new snap rings come out a LOT easier than old rusted ones!
And honestly, if this is a performance bike don't EVER put ethanol fuel in it. I use just non-ethanol gas treated with Stabil in all of my carbureted engines.