T500 something

[CarbsAndCylinders]

Good to see that your are back at it. I've done nothing on mine, body has pretty much healed up but n/o extra cash.

 

[farmer92]

Into stuff here that I would never dream of attempting!!! Good on ya!!

Shhhhh, don't tell anyone else, but i actually have no idea what the hell i'm doing. Like i said, I'm willing to try anything at least twice.

Going to have a go at stringing up some wires for the bare minimum, just to begin with.

Charging circuit.
Ignition
Thats it.
See if we can get a spark.
Think this diagram is a good start

We shall see how it goes, if the old harness is still partially recyclable some parts may be reused, very doubtful.

Also picked up some Chinese pwk carbs off ebay after reading several poaitive reviews, 35 USD a piece.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/271731062051

If they don't work then oops, if they do, great.

 

[CarbsAndCylinders]

"Also picked up some Chinese pwk carbs off ebay after reading several poaitive reviews, 35 USD a piece.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/271731062051"

This looks like trouble!

 

[farmer92]

It may very well be...
At that price though i'll take the chance. I think as long as i use genuine jets, it should go okay. If it doesn't i'm sure i can pawn them off on someone on kijiji and recoup.

In other news, what was this guys fetish with black crusty tape??

Actually... its all crusty

 

[Sonreir]

Time for a new regulator/rectifier. ;D

 

[johnu]

When I did my T500 the wiring was by far the most difficult part! Partly because I my bike was originally points ignition but it has the later gt engine with electronic ignition. Wiring loom was a combo of the two bikes as far as I could tell. Good luck with it! FYI you can pick up Mikuni's on amazon for $85 a piece if the other carbs don't work out!

 

[johnu]

Hope your wiring ends up looking better than mine ;D

 

[CarbsAndCylinders]

It may very well be...
At that price though i'll take the chance. I think as long as i use genuine jets, it should go okay. If it doesn't i'm sure i can pawn them off on someone on kijiji and recoup.

In other news, what was this guys fetish with black crusty tape??

Actually... its all crusty

Looks like assembly tape...

 

[farmer92]

Time for a new regulator/rectifier. ;D

Coincidentally, i hear you're the man to talk to about those ;D

Hope your wiring ends up looking better than mine ;D

Holy spaghetti batman!!!
I like that little oil tank though, what is that off of?

 

[johnu]

The oil tank I bought from US plastics.

 

[teazer]

I use the same tank for injection oil on the Phat Trakka.

John, what on earth is all that stuff under the seat? Time for a solid state R/R, modern fuse box/power distribution center. Thank goodness winter (assembly time) is coming......

 

[johnu]

I use the same tank for injection oil on the Phat Trakka.

John, what on earth is all that stuff under the seat? Time for a solid state R/R, modern fuse box/power distribution center. Thank goodness winter (assembly time) is coming......

Haha, that lot is showing my weak point for sure. I hate auto electrics actually I hate all things electrical. I would dearly love to modernize my system but I would need lots of help!

Sorry for hijacking your thread farmer I hope you wiring ends up better than mine

 

[farmer92]

Haha, that lot is showing my weak point for sure. I hate auto electrics actually I hate all things electrical. I would dearly love to modernize my system but I would need lots of help!

Sorry for hijacking your thread farmer I hope you wiring ends up better than mine

Haha no worries
I'd gladly fly out to rewire your whole bike in exchange for your pipes

 

[farmer92]

Looks like assembly tape...

Kevlar reinforced it would seem

 

[farmer92]

Can someone please explain why this diagram shows 6 wires leading to the ignition when there are only 4 that actually go into it?

Where the shit does red/green and green/white go?

 

[Sonreir]

Where the shit does red/green and green/white go?

They come from the alternator.

Back in the day, voltage regulators weren't too awesome of their job. So the engineers often designed the alternators to work at a reduced output level. That is, until you turn the headlight on. Then the alternator would kick out its full potential since the extra wattage was now needed.

When the switch is turned so that the headlight comes on, those two wires will join to once another and complete a partial winding of the alternator, allowing for additional charging capacity.

In the attached pic, it might make a bit more sense.

The Y/G wire represents the common side of all the windings. The opposite side of the windings are split into two: The R/G which is always on, and the G/W which is switched on when the headlight comes on.

The G/W and the R/G wires are the same phase, so when the circuit between the two is completed inside the ignition switch, your alternator puts out more juice.

If you're wiring from scratch and using a modern single phase regulator/rectifier (our unit will work well for this), you can splice the G/W and R/G together (completing their circuit) before connecting to the R/R. The G/W and R/G wires from the ignition switch would no longer be needed with this setup.

 

[farmer92]

They come from the alternator.

Back in the day, voltage regulators weren't too awesome of their job. So the engineers often designed the alternators to work at a reduced output level. That is, until you turn the headlight on. Then the alternator would kick out its full potential since the extra wattage was now needed.

When the switch is turned so that the headlight comes on, those two wires will join to once another and complete a partial winding of the alternator, allowing for additional charging capacity.

In the attached pic, it might make a bit more sense.

The Y/G wire represents the common side of all the windings. The opposite side of the windings are split into two: The R/G which is always on, and the G/W which is switched on when the headlight comes on.

The G/W and the R/G wires are the same phase, so when the circuit between the two is completed inside the ignition switch, your alternator puts out more juice.

If you're wiring from scratch and using a modern single phase regulator/rectifier (our unit will work well for this), you can splice the G/W and R/G together (completing their circuit) before connecting to the R/R. The G/W and R/G wires from the ignition switch would no longer be needed with this setup.

Yes, i was reading that diagram in the manual, but my problem is that those wires don't actually go into the ignition switch, its a 4 wire connector with grey brown orange and red wires. The r/g and G/W don't go into it...

 

[farmer92]

They come from the alternator.

Back in the day, voltage regulators weren't too awesome of their job. So the engineers often designed the alternators to work at a reduced output level. That is, until you turn the headlight on. Then the alternator would kick out its full potential since the extra wattage was now needed.

When the switch is turned so that the headlight comes on, those two wires will join to once another and complete a partial winding of the alternator, allowing for additional charging capacity.

In the attached pic, it might make a bit more sense.

The Y/G wire represents the common side of all the windings. The opposite side of the windings are split into two: The R/G which is always on, and the G/W which is switched on when the headlight comes on.

The G/W and the R/G wires are the same phase, so when the circuit between the two is completed inside the ignition switch, your alternator puts out more juice.

If you're wiring from scratch and using a modern single phase regulator/rectifier (our unit will work well for this), you can splice the G/W and R/G together (completing their circuit) before connecting to the R/R. The G/W and R/G wires from the ignition switch would no longer be needed with this setup.

Yes, i was reading that diagram in the manual, but my problem is that those wires don't actually go into the ignition switch, its a 4 wire connector with grey brown orange and red wires. The r/g and G/W don't go into it...

 

[Sonreir]

You might have a later model where those wires are part of the on/off headlight switch on the bars, or they might be joined from the factory if your headlight is always on.

 

[teazer]

It's also possible that a PO fitted a later model switch - which is good for your needs.