T500 something

Sonreir said:
You might have a later model where those wires are part of the on/off headlight switch on the bars, or they might be joined from the factory if your headlight is always on.

Bingo
Both ignition switches were the same, 73' and 74' so this must be it.
They were also the same as my tc185
The gs750 and 550 switches also...
My question then i guess, can they just be joined together permanently?
 
farmer92 said:
My question then i guess, can they just be joined together permanently?

If you have a modern R/R, yes. I don't recommend if it you're sticking with the stock components.
 
Okay, so they get wired together but on a switched circuit that only gets closed when the headlight is needed, correct?
 
farmer92 said:
Okay, so they get wired together but on a switched circuit that only gets closed when the headlight is needed, correct?

In the stock setup, yes. If you're upgrading to a modern unit, just keep them connected all of the time. It charges the battery better.
 
Alrighty then, i'll probably use the stock system until i get to the point of putting lights on it. Luckily the second bike's rectifier was in far better shape so we'll see how it goes.
 
Sonreir said:
You might have a later model where those wires are part of the on/off headlight switch on the bars, or they might be joined from the factory if your headlight is always on.

I don't know this if this would explain things but in Canada, vehicles have to have daytime running lights, not sure if this applies to this particular Titan or not but maybe it would mean an alteration to the wiring.
 
CarbsAndCylinders said:
I don't know this if this would explain things but in Canada, vehicles have to have daytime running lights, not sure if this applies to this particular Titan or not but maybe it would mean an alteration to the wiring.

Same in the States, but I think that law come into effect in 1974 or 1975, so some of the vintage bikes will still have separate on/off switches for the headlights and the extra charging circuit is almost always tied in somehow.
 
So i have been continuing my pitiful attempt and constructing some expansion chambers for this bike, needless to say it was not going well.

After much cutting, cussing, and Flying objects i was left with this turd
6a306dce123961f85f7679b6c73a7681.jpg

If you're thinking "golly that looks fugly" well it's even worse in person.

So after i realized one section was half welded on in the wrong direction, i threw it out window and drank one of these
a89518d6a95c290d9390dc4555863ab7.jpg


Which led to a brief moment of "what if..?"
Which led to these
fe42b310065f6b87e1ffb43c99688217.jpg


Which led to this idea
bdad4d417211f0b124a04e745f7bc591.jpg


Which would make the whole pipe building thing much easier. Not to mention the extra ground clearance.
May just throw some Dual sports on there so i can rip through the fields and dirt roads .


The chinahin carbs showed up, surprisingly they aren't as shitty looking as i expected.
d18b121702636877921ed4600f3b6eef.jpg

9a91975808085dd4d87aac7a71f7a85f.jpg


Question though
The OD of the engine side of these carbs is 40mm
The OD of the originals is about 43mm
Should the original boot be able to close this gap?
 
mmmmm....une bonne biere!!! Occasionally providing the inspiration we seek eh?

The carb boot question--- Not an expert by any means, but the boots would have to be pretty soft and pliable to "compress" down enough to form an airtight seal right?

Might be viewed as backyard hackery, but would it be worth building up the OD on the carb itself with some sort of substance (that could then be sanded round) to make that OD a little larger?
 
Yeah, i don't think it will seal well either, maybe a new flange can be purchased and made to fit.
 
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