"Tangerine Dream" / Glemseck - KZ750

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
Seat and tank mounts finished. Mock up of side panels which will incorporate oval for race number [ 55 ].

Mock up of footrest position - did the ergonomic bit today - all comfortable. The mock up mounts will have to be a bit lower to accommodate my poor old knees - a centres life is not an easy one !

Starting to see the end of a long, long road !

I've just found a Czech ignition system which is fully programmable and has 3 built in retard facilities. Seems to do everything the Dyna system does and much more. Oh yes - and 148 euros [ £130 ] - AND complete with software for laptop set up and patch leads. I'm waiting to hear back from them. They are very big in EU / UK racing circles.

Oh yes, and our state of the art paddock stand !
 

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bvander

Gold Coast, Queensland
Re: "Tangerine Dream" / Glemseck - KZ750

Nanno put me onto Ignitech for my Virago, he sent me map he had made and it changed the bike to no end. I haven't had a issue with it and the programming is fairly easy. Fast to arrive down under as well. Glad you got it sorted.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
The guy from the German site thinks they are the bollox. AND cheap compared with others. It will work out almost 60% cheaper than Dynatek AND I can use the 0.3 ohm coils I already have.

He has the map he uses on his bike he will let me have, but it will need modifying for the Nitrous. At least that's somewhere to start !

Unfortunately I am totally out of my depth with computers etc. but I have a pal who is reasonably savvy.

Apparently any real problems and Ignitech will help out

I'm surprised at Dynatek's lack of response.

Thanx for your feedback and interest Brodie.
 

teazer

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
If you can reply to a post, you can program an Ignitech unit. Download the software. Go one tab at a time changing things to see how it works. It looks a little intimidating so leave the more complex options for now and start by playing with 2d and 3d ignition maps. You can use POWER OUT to drive a shift light or power jet or to autoshift if you get sneaky. Not sure about the retard function though.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
teazer said:
If you can reply to a post, you can program an Ignitech unit. Download the software. Go one tab at a time changing things to see how it works. It looks a little intimidating so leave the more complex options for now and start by playing with 2d and 3d ignition maps. You can use POWER OUT to drive a shift light or power jet or to autoshift if you get sneaky. Not sure about the retard function though.
Teazer,

they include all the software / maps etc. with the unit and a patch lead for your lap top. All included in the price.

Yes - it looks very complex for my poor non PC brain ! I had a mail back from them confirming there are 3 built in retard modules on the unit I'm looking at, as well as "soft start" , etc. It's obviously a very sophisticated programme - oh dear !

At least I now know I have a unit that will work with my bike and set up - and of course the added bonus of the price ! It works out over 60% cheaper that the DARC-2 unit. Comes with a 3 year guarantee and a 12 month direct tech support.

We're off on Thursday to collect some aluminium sheet to fab up the side panel / number plate. This particular company is only 10 miles away and specialises in offcut sheets. A 100cms x 50 cms sheet [1.5mm ] is £20.
 

teazer

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
What I meant was that you don't need to wait for the unit to be ordered and shipped. If you are feeling the urge to get started you can download the software and run it and not have to wait for the CD that comes with the black box.

or you can wait and open all the prezzies at one time. :)
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
teazer said:
What I meant was that you don't need to wait for the unit to be ordered and shipped. If you are feeling the urge to get started you can download the software and run it and not have to wait for the CD that comes with the black box.

or you can wait and open all the prezzies at one time. :)
Gotcha. However, the whole electronic thing is alien to me - I come from an era of carbs, magnetos and a big hammer !!

I have a pal who understands all the relevant jargon and is reasonably clued up with computers, so I'll enlist his help to walk me through it all !

I've passed the info you suggested on to him so he can get a sneak preview !
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
My machinist has made up the new collars for the fork brace .......... that was a very expensive mistake in not checking the diameter of the fork leg tops !! In my defence, I had no reason to doubt the forks were non-standard. He's also made the paddock stand bobbins and had them plated for me - collecting everything tomorrow.

With luck I should have the alloy sheet for the side panels on Monday.

We mocked up the footrest mounts where they need to be and there's a potential clearance issue with the swingarm. So probably going to put a sweep in the shape to hang the pegs in space. ::)
 

Pete12

Member
beachcomber said:
My machinist has made up the new collars for the fork brace .......... that was a very expensive mistake in not checking the diameter of the fork leg tops !! In my defence, I had no reason to doubt the forks were non-standard.
With you on that one Beach, my racebike has (supposedly) R6 forks in it that are 42mm diameter yet my tracker project has R6 forks that are 44mm diameter.
You're bike is coming up really well, shame you don't live in Oz as I'd be happy to look after your welding and machining issues if you needed it.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
Pete12 said:
With you on that one Beach, my racebike has (supposedly) R6 forks in it that are 42mm diameter yet my tracker project has R6 forks that are 44mm diameter.
You're bike is coming up really well, shame you don't live in Oz as I'd be happy to look after your welding and machining issues if you needed it.
Hey Pete, thanx for the kind words - yea - just imagine if all us guys could pool our talents !!!

My forks were always queried by the guys on the KZ750 twin sites ... but nobody could actually say which model they came from. I wasn't bothered as I'd always intended to use the 4LS Grimeca and wire spoked wheel.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
Another good weekend.

The fork clamp fits ! And the new paddock stand bobbins have also been fitted.

We have almost finalised the side panels, just a bit more aesthetic tweaking then we can cut the shape. They will attach to and follow the shape of the seat to give a bit of a curve .... nothing worse that flat panels !!

I've also bought the switch panel for the NOS, fuel and other functions, plus a start panel.
 

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teazer

Active Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Will your paddock stand fit between the bobbins/spools and the rear axle nut? On some of our race bikes we have to drill out the axle to push a steel rod through for a rear stand.

Side panels are usually the hardest parts to style because they have to work with tank shape, seat shape and angles of the frame rails. I got lucky on the phat trakka and was able to take stock GT750 side covers, slim them down a couple of inches each and then moved them forwards. After that I was able to make new ones out of carbon fiber that look stock and work with all the surrounding shapes.

On yours the manx "tank" and G50 seat are different shapes/styles so it's a bit more challenging. More CAD in your future. Stock up on Cardboard. There's never too much. I still do a lot of design printing pictures and using typo correction tape or cutting white labels and sticking them on to cover up parts that need to be re-styled. Pens and labels and cardboard are cheaper and faster than mo9lds and resin and carbon twill.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
teazer said:
Will your paddock stand fit between the bobbins/spools and the rear axle nut? On some of our race bikes we have to drill out the axle to push a steel rod through for a rear stand.

Side panels are usually the hardest parts to style because they have to work with tank shape, seat shape and angles of the frame rails. I got lucky on the phat trakka and was able to take stock GT750 side covers, slim them down a couple of inches each and then moved them forwards. After that I was able to make new ones out of carbon fiber that look stock and work with all the surrounding shapes.

On yours the manx "tank" and G50 seat are different shapes/styles so it's a bit more challenging. More CAD in your future. Stock up on Cardboard. There's never too much. I still do a lot of design printing pictures and using typo correction tape or cutting white labels and sticking them on to cover up parts that need to be re-styled. Pens and labels and cardboard are cheaper and faster than mo9lds and resin and carbon twill.
Because our bike is narrower than modern machinery we do have good clearance. HOWEVER, it will all be assembled and trialed properly next week !!

I agree on the side panels ... the top will follow the line of the G50 seat curve and as it will be attached through so all the alloy edges will be under the glass lip. that point it should pull the panel into a nice soft curve - then it will dive under the Manx "tank". Originally I planned for a G50 tank cover, but it was too narrow to do the job I wanted.

We'll know next week when the panels are mocked up in CAD and then thin hardboard which hopefully will give us the same sort of curvature as alloy [ 1.5mm ]
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
BTW - the CAD footrest plate is NOT the finished shape or style, ::) that was done merely to put the hardpoints in their relevant position in space after I'd sat on the bike "assuming the position".

I'm planning on something with a gentle upward arch and obviously much smaller and hopefully aesthetically pleasing in 10mm alloy plate.

We are very fortunate here in Redditch as there are a couple of companies specialising in offcut / overun materials - alloy, brass, stainless, MS etc. Tube, bar, plate, sheet and some oddball stuff - hexagon etc. Everything seems to be £5 or £10 !!! So best to bundle more than the bits you want [ without taking the piss ] and you get a super bargain deal as well as some future stock !! ;)

Teazer. thanx to your feedback I'm definitely looking at a traditional Silver. There are a couple of likely candidates [ car colours ] and when I finally decide, I'll get a sampler tin of each colour and probably use the seat as the test piece. Maybe then a front to rear red stripe [s ] in the frame colour, but definitely Manx style pinstriping on the tank and panels.

The rolling chassis should be completed, torn down and re-sprayed ready for final assembly before my pal is of to his property in the US again.

I'll use that down time to make a start on the engine. 8)
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
Fork brace fitted - needs to be polished as and when.

Paddock stand bobbins fitted and P/Stand tested out for function - spot on and can remove rear wheel / spindle.

Side panel shape now patterned in CAD, final check of footrest position and then footrest mounts will be made [ 10mm alloy ]. The rear wheel spacers will be made up next week, and I'll get front rear/ spacers bright zinc plated.
 

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beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
A good weekend's work.

The seat has had it's final shaping glassed in and all the mounts double glassed. Once the glass has set we'll start the final surfacing with filler. Then it's off to the trimmers. Still undecided to use the Red or Black perforated Connolly hides.

Either way, there'll be contrasting Bentley Diamond double stitching.

The tank cover is also completed now - all brackets secured. Just need to do final outer surfacing and I'll shoot it in primer again.

The belly pan has proved a real headache, not least because it was not symetrical - and the fuel cell was !! All sorted now and mounting brackets glassed in.
 

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beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
Seat and side panels now mocked up. Just need to prep the seat for paint and then it's off to the trimmer to decide how we are going to make the upholstery. Looking at a seat pad and separate back pad initially. We'll mock it up and see what it looks like.

The side panel shape has been finalised now and we'll make it up in 1.2mm or 1.5mm alloy sheet. I want the top fixing to follow the gentle curve of the seat base - flat alloy doesn't look so good. The curve will be self formed once the fixings are installed.
 

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beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
Final work before a couple of days downtime.

The tank and seat are now properly mounted and all the fixings will be glassed in with gel flow coat over.

Next job to finalise the fitting of the fuel cell / belly pan and then we can complete the mock up for the fuel delivery pipes.
 

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