"Tangerine Dream" / Glemseck - KZ750

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Nah mate. Not feeling it for some reason. It looks forced rather than a natural solution to my old eyes.

If the original vision was high level and the problem is that ypur leg will touch teh pipe, how about ducting the pipe inside the first downtube and then back out again so the muffler stays outside but you have leg clearance. You could mock it up with pool noodle or pipe insulation - whatever you can get your hands on.
I thought you meant the seat LOL. This ^^ could work and be the compromise to keep the original vision for sure. If a route can be found in then out with minimal restriction.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
Something like this: not the fanciest but could give best look and keep leg from contorting and cooking.

thumbnail_IMG_3505.jpg
 

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
That is what I was thinking. Of course, its easy for us to suggest and may not be as easy to make that work, but it's worth a try. And there's no guarantee that it would clear Beach's leg.
 

Maritime

Well-Known Member
yep but it "might" just work, istead of the "S" bend more of a long U? hard to describe but right after the collector a bend in, the a long bit then a bend out to attach the megga. Side cover may need to be cut to allow the exit but would then maybe act as heat shields.
 

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
I prefer your first mock up, but it's not really my decision now is it? If it's necessary to keep the pipe inside the frame rails all the way back, I'd suggest having the muffler dead center up inside the seat. More like a ducati. I'm sure that someone did a super light Triton or was it a Trident years ago with a high level pipe. Can't remember his name - Scottish I think. All polished alloy and holes. Alister Laurie (?).

I remember his Trident from all those years ago when he was doing what I was only dreaming and scheming. I had it at the back of my mind that he did a T120 as well but can't find a reference.
 
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beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
Thanx for your continued feedback guys - all appreciated.

To be clear ............ the original high level solution is what I visualised all along !

The issue is not so much the heat - but an old Football knee injury [ curse of playing Center ] means I can't easily articulate my ankle / foot inwards. I can sit on the bike OK with the high level exhaust but my knee is then well outboard of the footpegs. In turn that means my foot is only on the outside 1/3rd of the peg.

I'm going to have one last throw of the dice for the high level system. I'm waiting for a quote from Armours to create a slim reverse cone Megga. Now if I was as talented as some of you guys - I would simply whizz the snail end off the existing megga and create a reverse cone.

If I could find someone in the UK to mod the existing megga - that's what I'd do. I could always just leave it as an open megga - no reverse cone !

One last ditch plan is for a large [ 50mm ] bore straight pipe extension to the collector - maybe something with a slight curve in it.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
Teazer - centre of the seat exit for megga not possible as that's where the fuel filler and hoses are located ! As the fuel delivery system has already been mocked up and made - I don't want to start all over.
 

NoRiders

Active Member
Finally reduced to £16.00 just before I pressed the "buy button" !

Just hacked out these "mounts" to determine the footrest position and finally check on the leg clearance for high level silencer. Should know next week .... pix to follow.
I quite like the wood tbh ;)
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
I quite like the wood tbh ;)
yep that's the modern version of Cardboard.Aided.Design. - called " W.A.D. " !!

It's just a matter of hanging things in space - in this case my foot. We can also have a first discussion about the gearlinkage at the same time.

Fortunately I have a spare bottom end which will eventually [ I should live so long ] become the turbo / blown motor. I'll use that as the new mock up donkey as it has the drive sprocket and gear link spline intact.

Again - I have a spare head / barrel set that can sit back on top to reinstall the exhaust / carb. for a final check, then the current mock up head can go off for twin plugging.
 

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
Beach, are you sure about those pegs? They look incredibly high and a little far back. The place I usually start is more or less in line with teh swingarm and say 2-3" behind the swingarm pivot. Any higher and my knees are bent too tightly like Lester Pigot on a race horse.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
Beach, are you sure about those pegs? They look incredibly high and a little far back. The place I usually start is more or less in line with teh swingarm and say 2-3" behind the swingarm pivot. Any higher and my knees are bent too tightly like Lester Pigot on a race horse.
Teazer,

That was the position [ 'ish ] based on how much I can bend my knee. Also the height of the seat base relative to the swingarm pivot [ where I used to start from ] is quite short [ as am I - 30" inside leg ].

The reason we are now [ today ] having a proper "fitting" is that there was no upholstery on the seat previously and of course there was no megga / silencer. I can't actually fit the upholstery as it uses "fir tree" fittings to attach. Once only use, so I'll just use a piece of 1" foam.

As to the height of the pegs - determined by ground clearance and also the fact that my pal made up the W.A.D. mounts and put the holes "where he thought" !
 

teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
That's what I suspected. Lower and forward require less knee bend and would be much more comfortable. Just out of interest, what's the measurement from top of the peg to top of the seat? 17" is like a tiny RS125, 18-19 is a little on the tight side but OK and 19-20 is relaxed but that usually happens with a high seat or low pegs.
 

beachcomber

TJ - Beachcomber
DTT SUPPORTER
OK .... sadly it has to be inside the frame as Maritime's photosketch.

There is no way I can have the hi-level system in the original position - unless I remove a leg !

So - as previous suggestions - we are going to duck inside the frame in front of the frame tube and then go up to the silencer [ not sure which one ] and out to the left of the wheel / tyre. I've ordered 2 x 45 degree bends which will create a lazy "S" bend.

The hacked and bent collector end is only POC. It's now been cut off and dressed to the correct angle to come inside the frame.

If we use the new [ not yet arrived ] shortie [ 12" long ] silencer I'll mount it horizontal. If we use the megga it will be in a similar position but at the correct angle to bring the snail end in the right plane.

That in turn gives me a lot more scope with knee / leg / ankle geometry.

Teazer, we were able to get the pegs slightly lower / forward by simply removing the exh from outside the frame. That's not the final position. We'll determine that when all the various bits of tube become an exhaust !
 

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teazer

Well-Known Member
DTT BOTM WINNER
You are right. A bike by definition is a series of compromises that we have to make to optimize the overall package. In this case, riding position is of higher importance than certain other criteria. With lower pegs and slightly different implementation of a high pipe exhaust, the overall package should be more fun to ride and will still look great.

For someone yung, dumb and full of.. whatever, cool looks might be the most important thing but for those of as the say "of a certain age" ability to ride the bloody thing and have fun is more important - and it will look ultra coool with an inside outside pipe. Cool and practical. Who knew that was even a thing :)
 
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