The Amalgam: honda past meets present, take 2! or 3?

Let me take a look when I get home, on the actual file, it's hard to trace on my phone... at first glance it looks to be on its own circuit so it might be as easy and closing the loop and calling it a day


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Sidestand switch is open with when the stand is down, and closed when up. So tying the green/white and green wires together will bypass the stand.

A toggle switch will work for key switch, since it's a normally open switch.

It comes stock with a 30a main fuse or breaker, plus the fuse box. Not sure how good of an idea it would be to run just a breaker. THough you can definitely reduce the amount of fuses.

Looks to me like the gauge cluster is just one ground and a bunch of colored wires, which suggests to me that they are all just indicators and there's nothing completing a circuit integral to operation.

Looks like ABS is its own thing.

The other stuff, I have no clue. Someone should check behind me, too. LOL
 
jag767 said:
I took s screen shot but it's hard to read. The actual doc can be zoomed in.
Man that's a far cry from my 70's twin!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If anyone can answer any of this, here's just a few of the things I'm not sure of.
It might be best to speak to a Honda tech at your nearest dealer. The issue will be in the ECM (Engine Control Module) if it detects that some circuits are not functioning, it may disable the engine or put it into a "limp home" mode. The tech should be able to tell you if the ECM will function without all circuits, or which circuits will disable the engine.
If you follow the basics, fuel and spark, they all have wires going to the ECM so it looks difficult to bypass the ECM. The other alternative is for whichever circuit you want to bypass you put in a resistor to simulate the sensor in a "OK" state. But without understanding the logic used in the ECM it is going to be difficult.
Another option is to cut it right back and put an aftermarket CDI and some carbies??
Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • CB500.JPG
    CB500.JPG
    32.9 KB · Views: 611
You could contact Ignitech and see if they have a custom wired unit for that motor.
 
After doing some reading, I think the bike will run fine if I pull the 2 sensors for the evap cannister, but will likely just throw a code. If I can confirm it will run without the gauge cluster attached (for those not aware, many modern bikes are set up with the ecu has to recognize the gauge cluster, and key, it's a programmed set) then I don't care, because I will just run my own tach and never see it anyhow. I think the way I'll deal with it is once I get me tank back, hook it all up and get her running, then start disconnecting shit to see what happens.
 
jag767 said:
After doing some reading, I think the bike will run fine if I pull the 2 sensors for the evap cannister, but will likely just throw a code. If I can confirm it will run without the gauge cluster attached (for those not aware, many modern bikes are set up with the ecu has to recognize the gauge cluster, and key, it's a programmed set) then I don't care, because I will just run my own tach and never see it anyhow. I think the way I'll deal with it is once I get me tank back, hook it all up and get her running, then start disconnecting shit to see what happens.

Sounds like a plan, certainly worth giving it a go. The worst that can happen is nothing, cannot damage anything.
 
I spent a bunch of time polishing up parts for a customer bike, so i popped the legs off the bike to see how much better my new approach works.

I was able to remove about 90% of the casting marks, and it looks dramatically better. Ill do the other leg tomorrow
 

Attachments

  • 20170803_211607.jpg
    20170803_211607.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 256
Get a side by side pic with the in polished leg, looks good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1fasgsxr said:
and whats the new approach ?? Looks great !

I originally would sand the shit, which worked, but took forever, I mean for a piece like this 10 hours. I kept trying to do it all with a wheel but no dice. The right combination is using a grinding wheel at 3400 rpm, a hard sisal wheel on it, and the black emery compound that's for stainless. With this setup up I can get almost everything out, but don't sit in a spot, you will put a divot in it. It makes a hell of a mess, but damn does it work. I thought about chasing the last little casting marks with scotch Brite wheels on my dremel, but i'm going to leave well enough alone.
 
Here is before and after same leg, using only the wheel.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20170804_092151.jpg
    IMG_20170804_092151.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 248
jag767 said:
Here is before and after same leg, using only the wheel.

That is how I do it unless there are deep gouges that need to be smoothed over. Emery is really good for high speed removal but not so good for bringing up color. That needs to be burnished with a softer mop and rouge. Nice work.
 
teazer said:
That is how I do it unless there are deep gouges that need to be smoothed over. Emery is really good for high speed removal but not so good for bringing up color. That needs to be burnished with a softer mop and rouge. Nice work.

Yes that part I'm familiar with. This gets rid of some pretty deep stuff, I took out things that had to be 1/16 no problem
 
Played with the exhaust today. I spent 5 hours making the 2 into 1 transition, and it's still not clean enough for me, so frustrating! I figure I can make it work just gonna need a bit more shaping. I really need a tig.....
 
Back
Top Bottom