the Hunley or, pidjones needed a retirement project

pidjones said:
Thanks! How long to cure? The mfr sez 24 hours to sand, but that seems short.

The gnat will no dobt leave a mark, although small nike a dust nit. One run can probably be ignored due to its location right at the back of the shelter cover where it closes in front of the seat. The other (actually double) run is on the top of the shelter and will need sanded and buffed. A few dust nits that I might sand or just live with. Also, I had lightly sanded the lacquer before clear, and there are a few places where it seemed to kill the metalic look and it looks like a dark shadow there. Clear reduced it, but I fear that I should have left the Duplicolor unsanded. Or cleared it with Duplucolor first lightly before the 2K, because the previous time that I used lacquer clear, it brought the metalic glint back.

I think the main thing I've learned is that for future work, I need to find someone with a good booth that will do this at a reasonable price.

24 is enough as it is 2 part and once it's done reacting, it's done. A good careful wetsand and polish should have it looking great.
irk miller said:
I should dig up pics, but my dad restored a bunch of cars growing up: several Roadrunners, a Charger, two Cudas, two Thunderbirds, my Gramma's Cordobas, all painted outside in South Carolina in the summer. His paint jobs were flawless once wet sanded and rubbed out. You can imagine the bugs in the air (especially mosquitios) in a southern summer.
Summer in SC? SOOO humid! I lived in Charleston for six years back in the 70's while in the Navy. Worst skeeters were up near the Santee just out of Jamestown and going up 17 through Francis Marion forest.
Maritime said:
24 is enough as it is 2 part and once it's done reacting, it's done. A good careful wetsand and polish should have it looking great.
Guess it will have to be more like 36 to 48. We are taking the Equinox to the dealership tomorrow (80 miles away) to have its third oil change (included with the purchase). Wife likes this because I take her to lunch on the way back. Might get to sanding by tomorrow evening. F or buffing, I need to figure out a way to hold the panels. Maybe wires on the back held by my workmate. Otherwise, they tend to go flying. I'm impressed with the gloss they obtained.
And now the old S10 won't start. Just as it turned cold again (cold for East Tennessee is in the 40's). So, troubleshooting that will be fun.
I was encouraged by you folks that a) the milkiness would go away as it cured and b) I would be able to wet sand and buff the nits, gnats, and runs out. Today the sandpaper came out soaking on a tub of water with a couple drops of Dawn. 1200 grit, then 3000 and finally 7000 on the runs. 3000 and then 7000 on the nits and gnat. Buffed with 3M polishing and finnesse compounds. Looks pretty good. Tomorrow I'll move the Hunley back in from the family room and mount up the carbs and tins. She'll go back to the family room for the winter, then.
Showed the Hunley ay Knoxville's Cabin Fever show this weekend. First place Honda (yippee, there were only three!) Thanks to everyone that encouraged me on the repaint. It came out very nice!
Rockwood Thunder Road Festival Best of Show Motorcycle.


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Been having a lot of fun showing this bike at nearby shows. Today we took her to Stearns, Kentucky for their Moonshiner's Run Car Show. HOT, but many really nice vehicles there, and I always try to get some photos of the Hunley with the pinup girls if available.

BTW, the blonde is headed for Afganistan in 2 weeks for 9 months.


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Been having a problem with #2 cylinder fouling plug in just 20 miles or less. So, pulled the carb rack again and stripped #2 down completely for careful inspection. Finally found the problem. The needle seat/holder was bad wallowed out at the top. I didn't have another '75 part, but have spares from the '79 junker. Put them in and balanced the carbs yesterday. This morning I took her for ~40 mile shake-down (she ran great) and after cool-down pulled #2 plug. Looks great!

Now, on to the '79 for a neked hot weather daily driver.
No shows to go play at so far this year, but one this Saturday in Sparta, TN. Pulled the Hunley out of her storage berth and into the garage for some updating. Lowered the back of the seat about 3/4" and that made it look a lot better. Took the voltmeter guts out (bimetalic strip gauge) and replaced them with an LED voltmeter. I put one on the '79 and really like it. Another change I'm considering is swapping the front MC for a Chinabay unit. Presently it is just the old crusty reservoir painted black. The Chinabays are cheap, but I've found they work Ok if you first rebuild them properly, and reassemble with brake fluid for lube. Just wonder what shipping time is becoming? Maybe a USA dealer in Chinabay parts (there are thousands, I think).
Yep, look for a USA stock seller, they are usually only $2 more but the part is already in USA on west coast so for you 2-3 days to get it.
Yep, look for a USA stock seller, they are usually only $2 more but the part is already in USA on west coast so for you 2-3 days to get it.
It will still need rebuilt (no QC), but should be much faster and reliable delivery. Might order later today. I hate brakes.
Me too and I did the same on the one I used on the CX. After I couldn't get it to work, used the supplied rebuild kit and it then would build pressure and work. It was fine for 3 seasons after that.
RIP Hunley?

Decided to ride the Hunley in to the Time Warp Tea Room this afternoon for Bike Night. Got about 2 miles from home and she began to loose power and stutter. Turned around and got about 1/2 mile back when she quit on me. Noticed that tach was not working and seemed to not be pumping fuel. Crap - broken right cam belt? Pulled to the side of the road and (after walking ~1/4 mile to get a signal) called the wife to come pick me up. Went home, hooked up the trailer, went back and loaded it to bring home. Once home I left it on the trailer to pull the right belt cover. Belt still in place? Removed tach drive/fuel pump. Bumped starter. Cam sprocket turns, tach drive doesn't. Removed right belt and sprocket. Rolled it in the garage and pulled the right valve cover. metal shavings spread around. Shazbot!
Guessing a minimum of head, cam holders and cam. Completes on eBay are ~$125. Plus head gasket (might have one). Major sux, because the heads on it had seats ground and mostly new valves. I can rebuild with my valves, but don't know if the machinest is still around that ground my valve seats.
That's odd. Any ideas as to what went wrong and how it caused the damage?
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