The Norda

[Rat_ranger]

I did some digging and found triton builds end up with the countershaft around 7-9" ahead of the swingarm pivot. The CB engine will have it about 5 1/4" ahead of the pivot. Still waiting on the new pivot bolt to really line everything up. But nice to know I'm not completely wrong on engine location.

 

[ex119x]

I did some digging and found triton builds end up with the countershaft around 7-9" ahead of the swingarm pivot. The CB engine will have it about 5 1/4" ahead of the pivot. Still waiting on the new pivot bolt to really line everything up. But nice to know I'm not completely wrong on engine location.

That is encouraging to know. I wonder if you could end up with adjustable mounting plates so you could adjust the weight bias when it is all together. I probably wouldn't matter in the practical world, but it would be cool.

 

[Rat_ranger]

That is encouraging to know. I wonder if you could end up with adjustable mounting plates so you could adjust the weight bias when it is all together. I probably wouldn't matter in the practical world, but it would be cool.

I don't think I'll fo anything that fancy for 1 big reason. To get the motor as low as it is in the picture I'll have to clearance the left lower frame tube. Not a big deal, but makes the front to back positioning kinda set once it's done.

 

[Rat_ranger]

Got the new pivot, so next I'll start fabricating mounts.

 

[Rat_ranger]

Working on the motor plates. Started with notebook paper, then foam board and now 1/4" MDF. This should give me a good pattern for 1/4" aluminum.

 

[Maritime]

Nice, I assume you will cut some relief holes in the aluminum for weight loss and looks?

 

[Rat_ranger]

Nice, I assume you will cut some relief holes in the aluminum for weight loss and looks?

I'll probably do some. I'll lay out a partial circle to give full access to the front sprocket, and base any other holes around that.

The right side will probably get holes to feed the oil lines through. That'll decide the layout on that side.

 

[Rat_ranger]

Modified the rear engine mounts so that the rear plates can run straight from the motor to the frame. Had to take a little over .6" off.

 

[Rider52]

I was wondering if you would need to reduce the rear mounting pads a bit. Nice job! The engine is so smooth, most of the mounting points are only necessary to add rigidity to the frame. I've seen very high mile custom bikes running only the front and rear engine mounts. I've also seen some running the two bottom mounting points with no apparent problems. Engine turning the aluminum plates would be a nice touch.

 

[Rat_ranger]

I was wondering if you would need to reduce the rear mounting pads a bit. Nice job! The engine is so smooth, most of the mounting points are only necessary to add rigidity to the frame. I've seen very high mile custom bikes running only the front and rear engine mounts. I've also seen some running the two bottom mounting points with no apparent problems. Engine turning the aluminum plates would be a nice touch.

I actually made a modified spring center for engine turned finishes when I was in school. I used it to make a dash for a triumph spitfire that I never installed. Finish still looks decent despite sitting in a box, then hanging in my garage for 9ish years.

 

[Maritime]

Cool

 

[adventurco]

Very cool. How do you get the spacing consistent? Jig?

 

[Rat_ranger]

Very cool. How do you get the spacing consistent? Jig?

Mill, works even better with a DRO, but the hand wheels are good enough.

 

[Rat_ranger]

The rear plates have gone from notebook paper, to foam board, to MDF and now aluminum.

 

[Rat_ranger]

OEM rear mount bolts were too long, so they've been modified.

 

[john83]

Well this seems neat