The SkyTeam 'Ace' Resource

I've had a similar issue with the seat, not cross threaded it but the metal of the tab has started to chew away at the bolt on the worst side from being taken in and out.
 
Did any of you need to put a resistor in to the wiring to get your aftermarket tacho's working right? Or did they come with one?

I see that for some tachos a resistor or sometimes capacitor can be needed...
http://www.hot-spark.com/tachometer-fix.pdf

All functions (speedo, trip meter, clock, indicator light, neurtal light, high beam light, back light) are working propery on my new speedo/tacho from T&T. BUT the tacho is useless...

For the RPM I have two choices (and they provide a wire for each):
Wrapping a wire around the HT lead (four times, shown in their installation guide)
Plugging in between the CDI and coil

Neither work right. The wrapping method gives me revs from 1 to 4 thousand only. The CDI/Coil method gives me revs from 1 to 4 thou and then leaps to 6 thou. Most of the time neither are showing what the revs are really doing just a vague approximation. i.e. bouncing around a bit and showing the opposite of actual rev increases/decreases.

I have read that some tachos need a resistor in the line because the electrical systems are noisy. So I am curious to know whether any of you have had to do that on the Ace?

And wondering whether the spare dangling earth wire I have left over may be an issue. The standard instrument cluster connects to two earth wires. The new one only needed one earth, so I just used one of the green wires. The spare green wire has the end covered in insulating tape and is just sitting there. Is that likely to cause me any issues?
 
I would have thought a capacitor but my tach is analog. Sonrier might give you help in electrical


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Hi guys I've had my ace for a while about 16 months I've only today decided to start it and get it ready for the road I have other bikes so that's why the ace has been sitting in the shed anyway got oil fuel battery in tried to start it didn't wanna start started checking a few things and found it has no spark to be honest it's really pissed me off first new bike I've ever owned and it won't start anyway I checked a few things wiring etc no avail any ideas ?
Cheers


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first day i had mine i tried to start for ages only for it to be the kill switch. wiring diagram is on here somewhere or in the back of users guide. check cdi.
 
My seat is now sorted. Took a craft knife to the rubber blocks. Now the bolts sit right in the middle of the slots. When removing the rubbers the grommets built in to the base of them crumbled. So trimmed remainder of them off and they are now held in place with double sided tape. Much better, taking seat on and off is now childs play like it should be.
 
might have to get carried away and design a quick release for seat one day. nice work with the rubbers , mine is hard to fit too
 
hi every one
almost finish my bike( never ride it yet but done almost all mods apart the 150cc)
want to ask you:
do you change tyres by youself ?
if yes what is the way to do it?
 
Supplier has given me a couple of things to try with the tachometer. Any other ideas?

"To receive a stable ready at your T&T instrument you still can try the following solutions:

- wrap a ground cable around the RPM signal cable so no impuls from outside will desturb the reading
- if that still has no effect, take the RPM signal from the alternator, curred before the regulator/rectifier unit. The manufacturer says this really is no problem for the instrument.

If this also does not work, please send the instrument back to us"


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Speaking of tyres, last week I replaced the back Michelin 45. At over 9000Km it gave about 2 1/3 times the wear of the original Chinese tyre.

A run on Sunday in the company of ACEitup along the Old Pacific Highway, thence to Wiseman's Ferry and St. Albans and a return by the same route certainly scrubbed-in the new rubber!

Crazy
 
This way works OK on tubeless tyres as long as you've got a airline with a unrestricted air supply enough to blow it out onto the rim. Wouldn't do this with a tube type, The size 300.18 - 3.25.18 are not a lot bigger than cycle tyres anyway.
 
lariviere said:
hi every one
almost finish my bike( never ride it yet but done almost all mods apart the 150cc)
want to ask you:
do you change tyres by youself ?
if yes what is the way to do it?
Click to expand...

Done to replace tyres and to replace an inner tube that got a puncture. Deflate inner tube first, then I just used a tyre iron (any longish, strong, blunt lever would do) to work the tyre off of the rim one side at a time. Exactly the same as changing a bicycle tyre, only takes a little more grunt.
 
speaking of tubes, any one else lose pressure like a sieve? I find that I check the pressure each week and lose 7-10PSI per week. I commute each day, I've replaced the tyres, not sure if they replaced the tubes but assume not as it was the same with the original tyres.

Is this normal?
 
ChrisBNE said:
speaking of tubes, any one else lose pressure like a sieve? I find that I check the pressure each week and lose 7-10PSI per week. I commute each day, I've replaced the tyres, not sure if they replaced the tubes but assume not as it was the same with the original tyres.

Is this normal?
Click to expand...

Could be the shrader valves, try some off another known not to leak or new?
 
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