JadusMotorcycleParts said:
Awesome to hear someone has done that! Any measurable results? I actually bought some adjuster bolts from Kedo for the SR500 to see how they were done - like how you described (hole with Allen detail). Although that might be out of scope for this project, Ti nuts certainly isn't... !
I didn't do a before and after comparison, but fully lightened motors tend to rev a little higher than those that are not as extensively modified.
Pops Yoshimura published an article decades ago about modifying CB72 and CB77 motors and he documented the peak revs that the motors achieved with different weight of valves. Anything that reduces reciprocating weight will allow the motor to rev higher before bad things happen but may not necessarily increase HP unless the motor has sufficient breathing ability. Another way to phrase that is that if a motor has more flow capacity than it needs at peak revs, then it should be possible to raise that peak and make more power.
In the case of valve trains, every little help, but only a little helps only a little bit.
You can also check your port shapes and compare them to AG Bell's relative shapes. It's not always possible to get it all 100% correct, but Bell's numbers give a good idea of where a port is restricted and where it's too large. If a section is cast too large, it can be reduced with Devcon F or increase the size of other sections including the valve if necessary to make the port more efficient.
One trick that people seem to underestimate is getting the squish right - or at least making the squish band work. That usually requires the head and piston and barrel to be machined which will raise compression a touch. The result of getting it to work should be more power everywhere in the range. Good squish allows higher compression before detonation sets in.