Ugly Goose - Moto Guzzi 850T cafe

Rusnak_322

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I need custom shorter lines for cosmetic reasons. I went to the place I have used in the past, Spigler. I need 2 lines 13" (300 mm) long each. I want each to have a 45 degree banjo on one end and the other will have a 10 degree banjo. Just silver with clear cover, nothing fancy. They want $114 plus $10 shipping which was way more than expected. I was hoping to get it for under $75.

Looking at what I have now, they have a place to put a wrench that I have not seen before on aftermarket brake lines.

Could these have been from a "make at home" kit? Can I shorten them? Or is that ¿no bueno?

There are these for sale -


http://www.motoparthub.com/392135_MAGNUM_Universal_Build_Your_Own_byo_Dot_Brake_Lines_Banjo_Brake_Byo_35_10mm?src=Google&gclid=CjsKDwjw0cXIBRCxjqnE3K3sHhIkAL1LezTj9t_aPwHgsLjTU0cE0Fi0cZeuk960d59Tn0jbpZbqGgLOX_D_BwE




And these -

https://revivalcycles.com/collections/collections-braking/products/banjo-fittings


Here is what I have-

















 

spotty

Vmax...why,yes i think i will
they are indeed a 'home made' kit, though they may have been prof built, I had a set made for the Vmax by a friend who restores bikes for a living and they were great until total failure set in. with no warning one of the hoses parted company with the banjo with predictable results. luckily I was out on the freeway and just applying a touch of front brakes as I took an off ramp but it could have been a lot worse.......
they can be shortened, all you need to do is pull them apart and use a grinder / chop saw to cut them to length then re-assemble.
I wouldn't unless the cost of new lines is beyond your means, that many joins and sealing surfaces is too many for my liking. I know that any people have and do use them for brakes as well as oil lines (which is where the idea came from in the first place) but never again for me
the only way you'll know they don't work any more is when they don't work when you need them

also should you be tempted by the name Galfer who are a well known brake line etc maker, avoid them like the plague. I had two of their brake lines literally fall apart. again not under any time of emergency but never a good thing. one of them snapped the banjo off while removing the back wheel and the tyre caught the caliper, so no more pressure than hands holding the wheel. the other one snapped the banjo off whilst hanging the front calipers on the end of the lines while changing the front wheel (and yes I know you're not supposed to do it but we all have and this is the first time I've ever heard of it happening)
I have in the past had a braided line on my old Honda 750 which was a couple of inches short and actually acted as a suspension travel limiter (again,. yes I know it wasn't a good idea) and it never showed any signs of trouble
 

Rusnak_322

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I went ahead and bought them. I asked if there was any options to make them cheaper and Spigler dropped $15 off. No sense cheaping out on something so important.


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Rusnak_322

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Got my new front brake lines installed. Much better.






I also made up a mount for the LED headlight. It works, but I need to remake it to look better.




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Rusnak_322

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I also installed a horn as I really didn't like riding without one. I honesty don't know where it came from, some old bike I must have had.

I used the same mini button I used for the starter. I don't understand how they are supposed to be installed. They have a washer that perfectly fits the 7/8" bar, and are threaded with a nut. But there is no way to get the nut on and tighten it.

I just did what I did on the starter and squirted some silicon into the hole with the button.












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Rusnak_322

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Looking at the pics, there is no way I am ever getting that clutch perch off without removing the horn button. it is a one piece and not much bigger than the bar dia. On the other side of it would be too far to reach.

Now all I have to do to call this one done is wire up the horn, headlight (will be easy, but using a connector vs direct wiring the last one), wiring up the neutral light on the tank (have one in the gauge - so I will tap into that and keep them both) and then maybe buying the GPS adder to the gauge to get rid of the ugly wire to the front wheel speed sensor.

I cant think of anything else that I need.
 

Rusnak_322

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Need help finding a switch. Looking for a micro button to use to switch between low and high beams on my headlight.

Would like something small with a led to let me know the high beams are on.

Would this work? I think that what I need is a single pole, double throw (SPDT). Would I need a relay or something to reduce voltage going before the switch? Any idea how to wire?

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/dimmers-and-switches/led-indicator-push-button-switch/1201/3600/?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_content=CPBT-SPx&utm_campaign=GoogleBaseChild&gclid=CjwKEAjwsLTJBRCvibaW9bGLtUESJAC4wKw1BGAyhEzgtU08Br8vevZYQ4J_EpOfPIMkHS5T3l8_ABoCAFXw_wcB#tab/Accessories/subtab/wiring

http://www.12volt.com.au/redirect.html?a=/General%20Htmls/webcat2003/switches.html




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Sonreir

Oregon
Yup. Single pole, double throw should have a setting like so:

low/off/high

It's a three way switch.

So long as it's rated for 6A or better, no relay will be needed.
 

Wahoo650

New Member
Rusnak_322 said:
I also installed a horn as I really didn't like riding without one. I honesty don't know where it came from, some old bike I must have had.

I used the same mini button I used for the starter. I don't understand how they are supposed to be installed. They have a washer that perfectly fits the 7/8" bar, and are threaded with a nut. But there is no way to get the nut on and tighten it.

I just did what I did on the starter and squirted some silicon into the hole with the button.












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Ed, you know I love the bike, but looking at these pics, can't help but think the lowers are on the wrong sides. Would put calipers, lines etc. all to the rear. much cleaner. Like the green 850-T on the previous page.
 

Rusnak_322

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Wahoo650 said:
Ed, you know I love the bike, but looking at these pics, can't help but think the lowers are on the wrong sides. Would put calipers, lines etc. all to the rear. much cleaner. Like the green 850-T on the previous page.
I purposely put them on that way. When I got the bike, they were behind the forks. But they were originally in the front from the factory, but if you look at the pic, the lines are ran different as there is a weird linked brake system with one caliper and the rear disk working together. I cannot do that as I have a drum rear, someone had grafted on a dual disk front end from a T3 to a standard 850T.


I prefer them that way as there is a neat little Guzzi bird logo cast into them that you cant see when turned.



 

Perter

New Member
Le Mans 1 had the calibers in the front too while Le Mans 2 (and SP1000/CX100) and onwards had them in the back. So it must be something with the year of manufacturing.. .and the lower section look COOL with the small engravement. Wish my SP1000 had that detail too
 

Rusnak_322

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Has anyone ever used a GPS speedo?
the speedometer on my bike has the ability to upgrade to a GPS. It isn't cheap at $132

https://www.amazon.com/Koso-KK000001-Speed-Signal-Converter/dp/B01II29JH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1497643259&sr=1-1&keywords=koso+gps




The speed reader that works off of magnets on the front wheel is UGLY. the wire is very thick and needs a lot of zip ties to keep it close to the front brake line.

with the drum/shaft drive rear wheel, there is no way to mount it in the back.

How well do these work? does the black box have to be mounted anywhere special? In line of sight to the sky?? I wouldn't think so, my phone GPS doesn't need that, but who knows??

thanks for your help
 

irk miller

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Damn,man. I hate that I didn't see this thread earlier. You can get the same AN fittings and SS braided brake lines through most automotive suppliers. I get them through Summit racing for half the price. I ran dual front lines on my BMW R100/7 for about $70. The single line on my CB360 cost under $40 for the lines and fittings.
 

Rusnak_322

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Sonreir said:
Also a good option for GPS gauges:

www.speedhut.com

Why is your GPS Antenna $41 and the one for my speedo $135? Too bad I have no clue how to convert one of yours to work with mine.



GPS Antenna with 15ft long cable and male SMA connector


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Sonreir

Oregon
Not sure about the technical details and what goes into the pricing, sorry. SpeedHut is a good brand though, I wouldn't expect them to sell something that didn't work correctly.
 

clem

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I may be wrong because I do not have access to any of the code on the GPS speedometers available to the public but it may not have the capability to accurately track speed or distance across elevation changes. Algorithms are possible to correct for this but that's not to say that they use them. It also may not work when you are riding through heavily wooded areas and certainly won't work in a covered parking garage! I would ask myself how accurate does it need to be and go from there. GPS is great but it isn't infallible.

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irk miller

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The GPS app I run on my phone shows accuracy. How accurate their accuracy gauge is could probably be debated, but I've seen mine go off as much as 130 meters way ass out in the boonies.
 
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