Ugly Goose - Moto Guzzi 850T cafe

Bevelheadmhr

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Don't know for sure, but it looks like its been blasted, maybe vapour blasted or maybe bead blasted (silicone beads give a finish that looks like that, and can also give a satin look by smoothing out the surface imperfections).

BTW, just made a video just for you... :)

https://youtu.be/USUq-2uP694
 

Rusnak_322

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Bevelheadmhr said:
Don't know for sure, but it looks like its been blasted, maybe vapour blasted or maybe bead blasted (silicone beads give a finish that looks like that, and can also give a satin look by smoothing out the surface imperfections).

BTW, just made a video just for you... :)

I appreciate your help, but I don’t think that the Rub N Buff will work for me. I want my whole motor to be uniformly colored, so that means that the cylinders and heads would need that treatment as well. I don’t see it holding up. it seems to be mostly carnauba wax, which cannot withstand high temps. I found threads on car detailing sites where people had issues with carnauba wax on their cars in places like Texas. The heat from sitting in the sun caused the wax to break down. The SDS on the manufactures site says that the boiling point is 212° to 375°. I am not sure the temps that the air cooled motor runs at, but I think that would be higher than that. You maybe ok with just the cases, but I don’t think that it will last in my application.

https://www.amaco.com/t/mixed-media/metallic-finishes/rub-n-buff
 

Rusnak_322

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Here is what my motor looked like.





here I had started painting -



I tried to buff out the corrosion with a brass wire wheel on a dremel, it removed enough that I couldn't feel it anymore, but I could still see it.

 

Perter

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The open "box" on the gearbox collects water if you run with a custom battery plate.

I have a custom plate myself (rather a lattice) and mine is full everytime i wash (every second month :eek:) or when it had been sitting out in the rain.

I would suggest you drill some drain holes in it before you paint unless you plan to never run in wet conditions or even make a custom lid to cover?

Very nice paint job btw, it looks perfect on pictures. Is it with a spraygun?
 

Rusnak_322

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This is after painting -





I painted the starter motor a different color. it is Cast Aluminum, and it is a more noticeable difference than it looks in the picture.



I did that on my last bike, I don't care for a bike motor that looks like it has just been spray bombed.

I took care to tape off everything that is not the motor case. I pulled the valve cover bolts and gaskets, and taped off the other fasteners that I don't plan to replace. I only left the bolts holding the gearbox to the motor.
I plan to paint the alternator cover a slightly darker color. I am still on the hunt for an aluminum one that I can polish, but I gave up on the idea of polishing the valve covers after I took a long look at them and all the pitting and scratches. The paint did a good job hiding those flaws, but I would be too anal to let them go if I were polishing them. Maybe I will keep an eye out for some after I get her on the road and change them out later.
 

Rusnak_322

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Rusnak_322 said:
I appreciate your help, but I don’t think that the Rub N Buff will work for me. I want my whole motor to be uniformly colored, so that means that the cylinders and heads would need that treatment as well. I don’t see it holding up. it seems to be mostly carnauba wax, which cannot withstand high temps. I found threads on car detailing sites where people had issues with carnauba wax on their cars in places like Texas. The heat from sitting in the sun caused the wax to break down. The SDS on the manufactures site says that the boiling point is 212° to 375°. I am not sure the temps that the air cooled motor runs at, but I think that would be higher than that. You maybe ok with just the cases, but I don’t think that it will last in my application.

https://www.amaco.com/t/mixed-media/metallic-finishes/rub-n-buff
thanks,
I rattle caned it.

here is my makeshift spray booth. it usualy holds the garbage cans, it was pretty windy out so it was nice to have a place to spray.

 

Bevelheadmhr

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The engine looks great, you've got me wishing I'd done the same with mine. It'll be interesting to know how it holds up in the future.
 

Rusnak_322

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I spent the holiday detabing the frame, grinding them smooth and blasting the frame with my soda blaster.
The soda did a great job removing dirt and grease but most of the paint remained. There were places that the paint came off easily, a lot of fasteners came clean. The rest of the paint has a flat texture to it that should be a good base for paint.

I has wanted to prime it with the high build primer, but it started to rain.





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Rusnak_322

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anyone know where to find a pair of velocity stacks with screen for a Dellorto VHB 30mm carb?
I like the longer ones, but I don't like the idea of paying $65 each for a pair of them.

I understand the issues with running these, I will have a plate blocking the crap being thrown off the rear wheel and this isn't a bike that will be ridden a lot or in the rain.

this is what I am looking for-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/131546760820?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true




also looking for some straighter intake manifolds, this is purely for looks.
 

Bevelheadmhr

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I got mine from the official Dellorto site here in the uk

https://www.dellorto.co.uk/product-category/dellorto-motorcycle-carburettors-parts/trumpets-manifolds/trumpets/

Normally parts are a lot cheaper in the US, so maybe you could try looking at the official US Dellorto sites (assuming they have one).
 

Rusnak_322

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Dang!

£24 works out to $31 USD. Compared to $60 here at what I assume is a US distributor

http://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/d65_Dellorto_VHB_VHBT_and_VHBZ_Parts.html
 

Rusnak_322

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Rusnak_322 said:
Dang!

£24 works out to $31 USD. Compared to $60 here at what I assume is a US distributor

http://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/d65_Dellorto_VHB_VHBT_and_VHBZ_Parts.html

am I reading this correct? - the part is only 2" long? 55mm = 2.1"

Product Description
Will fit VHB 27-30mm carburettors with internal 34mm x 1.25 thread & SS1 25 – 30mm.
•55mm long
•48mm wide at mouth
 

Rusnak_322

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This is the stack I had on my CB360
One fell off and was run over before I could get it. I had to buy another pair. Luckily they were spun polished aluminum, not machined from billet so they were $30 a pair.

Way to large a diameter for the small guzzi carbs, I could almost fit my pod filters in it.





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Rusnak_322

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Great weather this weekend. I spent it painting the frame.
My old touch up gun wouldn't work, not sure what is going on. Maybe the seals are dry rotten from not being used in 10 years?



I went to Eastwood and bought a new gun, worked great for both the base and the clear.









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Rusnak_322

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I have a question. I don’t want to keep the fork legs black. I was thinking of polishing them or painting them aluminum.

Any idea what to do about the extra lugs on the front of the fork? I assume that they were for a larger stock fender, but I will not be using them (keeping a smaller fender for now).

I was thinking of cutting them off, then grinding and sanding flush before polishing, but that was before I did the frame. I cut a few tabs off the frame and there were 4 or 5 that the previous owner cut, but didn’t grind. I used a grinding disk and flapper wheel on my angle grinder and it looked pretty good. Until I primed.

I had to use some filler to get the frame tube to look round again (not much, but some).

I don think that I have the skills to do this and them polish the fork legs. I could probably get away with it and paint.

Anyone ever do this? Was it as hard as I think that it will be? I am guessing that any mistake will be more visible in the polished aluminum then it was with the light gray primer frame.









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Perter

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That bike comes together really well! Congrats with the job so far.

Regarding saving the tabs off: They are probably for the fender support for the original (heavy) fenders and you could remove them with no issues. They are not on my 1000SP for instance, but there the brakes are on the underside of the legs too.

I would think the best result would be if you can have someone with a lathe to remove them, this is how people shave lower legs on choppers without front brakes. But I'm not sure if it's possible with the other brake tabs that needs to stay? Alternatively, I would suggest to cut them a little above the surface with an angle grinder or similar and file the remaining tab down by hand or with a dremel - carefully, so you don't make a flat spot.

I would think proper care and polish would do the job - and if it doesn't you can paint them same way you just painted the motor

Good luck - very interesting project to follow

Per
 

Rusnak_322

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Playing with ideas for the tank logo. Would be slightly lower after I fill in the circle indents.
This is just etch primer and rattle can silver paint.






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