Ugly Goose - Moto Guzzi 850T cafe

Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER












I have to figure out if this fender is going to work with this 18" wheel. Looks like it is off to me. I may just need to lower it some.





Starting to look like a bike again


















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Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
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Man, all that work cleaning, taping and painting the front hub and you can't even see it.

Everything going back on the bike is getting cleaned up before it goes back on. Every bolt is hit with a brass wheel and degreased. All threads are chased and I am doing all I can to make it look as good as I can without buying lots of new parts. I still don't have much money into this bike yet.


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hillsy

Over 1,000 Posts
Back in the day they used to swap the forks over to run the calipers behind the forks to get a "racer" look. Would look pretty good on your bike.


Just a thought.


Keep going ;)
 

Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
If you look at the bike when I bought it, the calipers were behind the forks. I swapped them because I like the Guzzi bird logo on the forks and wanted it to be visible.









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DJsalinger

New Member
I'm impressed. It's really coming along. Makes me feel like I'm neglecting mine.

Where did you get that seat? And what mods if any have you done to get it to fit?
I'm trying to fiberglass a similar seat for my Guzzi but it's seeming more and more not worth the effort, especially if yours is just a bolt on
 

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Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
The seat is from Dime City Cycles. It is real leather. They make the same seat in vinyl as well. I really like it. Seems comfy sitting on the bike making vroom vroom sounds in the garage but I have not ridden on it yet.


I had a bar welded to the frame in the front and two brackets in the rear to mount it. I hold it on with some R clips.








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Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
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I have a question about my rear brake. I didn't notice the gap before I took it apart. Not to say it wasn't there, everything was painted black. I made sure to keep everything together, so I am not missing anything. Is that gap between the hub and brake plate normal? I did a Google image search but couldn't find anything.













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Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
Another question.
Working on the exhaust. I want upswept mufflers. Right now I have the header and a H-pipe that ends about where the rearset is. I was thinking of these -
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/chrome-upswept-muffler-adapters.html




But I was going to wrap the header and H-pipe and then wanted stainless upswepts to match the reverse cones that I plan to get.

any idea where to get them? Or where to get some stainless (either brushed or polished) reverse come mufflers that wont break the bank?
 

DJsalinger

New Member
My rear drum has a gap. Looks ok to me. Is the gap the same size the whole way round or is it narrower in a spot(s)? It may just seem abnormally large with how clean your parts are

I haven't mucked around with exhausts yet. I'm still running BUB's my dad put on in the seventies. MG cycle, Harpers, eBay?
 

Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
Need help with rear sets
I have a cluster F going on.

What is the ideal ratio? I have indexable rear sets, should the shifter and the tab on the shift shaft be parallel? If I index it one way or the other, do I get better leverage both ways - up and down shifting?

I am going to use the shifter I have as the lever on the shift shaft since it is welded. I plan to cut it and bend it and make it accept the other end of the linkage.












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Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
The rear brake is even more funky.

See the pics. The old brake lever will have to attach to the new one, but it is on close for a linkage, I think.

Any ideas?




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adventurco

Nick Ol' Eye
DTT BOTM WINNER
I have a set of those upsweep adapters from DCC I'm not using, if you decide to go that route I can cut you a deal. Check out Cone Engineering (I think it's coneeng.com) for mufflers, they have a good selection of SS and mild steel exhaust parts.

As far as the rear sets go, you want the mounting point for the rod on the rear sets to be parallel to the shift lever. As for the brake, it may be tough to adapt the stock lever with the proximity, but it's the same principal. You may be able to rotate he stock lever so it points to 9:00, and then relocate the mounting point on the rear set to be parallel to it when your pedal is in a comfortable position. Or run a cable, which is a bit more involved but a good solution.

This is the best pic I got available of how I ran the shifter side on the 360, hopefully it helps.




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Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
adventurco said:
I have a set of those upsweep adapters from DCC I'm not using, if you decide to go that route I can cut you a deal. Check out Cone Engineering (I think it's coneeng.com) for mufflers, they have a good selection of SS and mild steel exhaust parts.

As far as the rear sets go, you want the mounting point for the rod on the rear sets to be parallel to the shift lever. As for the brake, it may be tough to adapt the stock lever with the proximity, but it's the same principal. You may be able to rotate he stock lever so it points to 9:00, and then relocate the mounting point on the rear set to be parallel to it when your pedal is in a comfortable position. Or run a cable, which is a bit more involved but a good solution.

This is the best pic I got available of how I ran the shifter side on the 360, hopefully it helps.




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can you PM what you want for the upsweep adapters shipped to 44039?

thanks!
 

Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
I have not made great progress lately.
This is due the the crazy heat & humidity and other garage projects.

I found a great deal on rims for my car, they were for sale for ever, but the seller wouldn't drop his price from $800. After more then 2 months he came down to $700 and I drove 150 miles to pick them up.

I know they are not everyone's taste, but I like them. They had huge rear drag radials on the rear - 305/30-R20. They wouldn't fit my car, so I swapped them out and sold them for $400 to some guy with a Hellcat Challenger.

next was getting our street bikes ready for a three day trip to WV and Virginia. I mounted a RAM phone mount to my wife's 1098 triple clamp nut, doing brakes on them and mounting new tires. I need to look over the clutch on my Monster as it is not releasing right a way when I pull it in. I think that I may need a new basket - last time I changed plates, it was starting to bet pretty notchy.






















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Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
Here is what I did get done.

I got the wiring put back in. It is a mess, but it turns over. I need to go one by one and replace them to get rid of the mess and extra connectors that don't serve any purpose. I plan to clean it up and wrap them.




I have a vent on the rear end. originally, there was a 3' piece of hose that went under the tank with a filter on it. I threw a gas tank vent from a dirt bike on it. If it pukes oil, I will go to "plan B"




I did pick up a velocity stack from DCC - a cheap thin aluminum one that was only $14. It fits, I will pick up another next time I place an order.










I also found a light that I like for under the seat. I need to come up with a mounting solution. Right now it is just held on with tape or with the plate on the tire. Cost $18.















 

lc4dakar

New Member
Rusnak_322 said:
Need help with rear sets
I have a cluster F going on.
The angle isn't too critical. If you zoom in you can see I have a pretty good angle on my rearset linkage. I will probably drop it one hole when I start fine tuning the bike, but it shifts fine the way it is.

 

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