We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
See below: I am having a issue, I cannot figure out. My rear brakes worked fine when I took the bike apart. I marked the drum side to make sure that I reassembled the linkages in the exact same spot on the shafts. My rear sets didn't work at all at first. I then tightened the adjuster nut all the way in on the drum side and then lengthened the rear set linkage and now it works a little. Not good enough to stop the bike at speed, but at walking pace.
I know it is an adjustment issue. I want to shorten the linkage back up as the pedal is too high.
Would moving the indexable part of the brake pedal either way change anything? I think that I need to make the brake shaft turn more vs the brake pedal and I would think that only changing the mounting point height on the either the pedal or the other part would help.
I could make the linkage attach at a lower point on the end that isn't the pedal (know what I mean?) see my sketch. I could go from the right side to the left side.
Try to adjust everything so that you're working with right angles when it comes to the controls. The rearsets looks like they're indexable, so you should be able to move things without moving the location of the foot lever.
they were close to right angles when I started. that little threaded rod is adjusted out about as far as it can go (I have plenty of threaded bar to make a longer one). But it works better now that it is longer then it did when it was shorter, which I don't really understand.
I just noticed that your rear drum is 2LS, too. Make sure your adjustment on the shoes is correct. I was fighting a similar problem on the front brakes on my 360 for a while and it turned out that the shoes weren't applying equal pressure to the drum.
before I took it apart, I took a saw and made a notch on the two splined shafts and the linkage to make sure they were exactly the same when I re-assembled. They worked as good as drum brakes could prior to disassembly. that is why I suspect the rear sets are not correct.
What adjustment can I do to make the bottom shaft to move a greater arc then the shaft lever shaft?
If you remove one side of the linkage on the brake drum, then apply both brakes, you can check the linkage rod length compared to where the brake shoes stop.
What is probably happening is one shoe hits before the other and you only get 1/2 the stopping power. My bet is you will shorten the linkage rod.
If you're interested , you can re-arc the brake shoes so they contact fully with the drum. You spray glue sandpaper to the inside of the brake hub-220 grit.
Lightly apply the brakes as you turn them inside the hub. Remove and you will see the high spots. Keep turning and applying until you have full contact. Vacuum up the dust with a good vacuum, wear a mask. Old brake shoes may contain asbestos. If this scares you, there are brake and clutch companies that can do this process.
I think one of my issues is that the old brake directly acted on the shaft. Now with my linkage, the stub on the brake lever is shorter then the stub on the shaft, so for any given travel, it is turning less degrees. Is that colorectal thinking?
I can shorten the one, but not lengthen the other.
I road it about 6 miles tonight.
Need a little tweaking still but I have Saturday for that and Sunday is the Distinguished Gentleman's Ride - Cleveland. I set that as my goal to get it road worthy.
I still cannot find a cool headlight that I like and I will need shocks and a horn eventually.