Uncommon virago cafe

Re: Re: Uncommon virago cafe

CBPayne said:
...race bikes have longer shocks to keep the rear wheel on the ground better or more so they don't loose contact with pavement.

Daresay you won't have to worry about that. :) Dropping the rear puts you pretty close to the ground; raising it will decrease rake further...
 
Hey forget the idea of moving the rear shock mounts. That has bad idea written all over it. Im sure yall knew that.
 
Today it is raining, I've got a late start so I don't know how much I will actually get done. Im going to start doing some very important maintnance on the bike today. I know I need to rebuild/ repack the wheel bearings. I really just want to rebuild the whole front end. Then I need to change the drive shaft oil. All that fun stuff even it doesn't need it. Im the third owner and have no idea if the previous owners did this stuff. Now the bike only has 22k miles on it.
 
When you change the gear oil don't break off the breather - there's a drain hole, a fill hole, and a plastic breather on the top.
 
Got a pic? I saw the creme color plug on the top side near the u joint. Look I don't know much about bikes but I watching a vid on someone talking about shaft maintnance and mentioned changing the final drive oil and the I guess the front drive. I don't know if they ment the trans oil or if there u joint was submerged in oil. I think the viragos are just greased. I haven't had time to look at it. I went out today to get some sthl parts for my day aswell as shaft oil and kreme kit and got hit by some ladies runaway tire. ;D It could have been worse, I could be dead and not typing now.
 
Here's the pumpkin:

pqt22bkl.jpg


sorry, mine's been painted (and poorly). There are three things plugged in to it - one at 12:00, one at about 4:00 and one at 6:00. The bolt at 6:00 is the drain; the bolt at 4:00 is the fill hole, and the thing at 12:00 is a breather with a check valve. It's not particularly sturdy so if you wrench on it trying to figure out if it's the fill hole, you get to buy another one.

Now don't get hit by any more flying tires. Did that in a Volvo 240 and it did more damage to the guy it hit after my car.
 
CBPayne said:
Got a pic? I saw the creme color plug on the top side near the u joint. Look I don't know much about bikes but I watching a vid on someone talking about shaft maintnance and mentioned changing the final drive oil and the I guess the front drive. I don't know if they ment the trans oil or if there u joint was submerged in oil. I think the viragos are just greased. I haven't had time to look at it. I went out today to get some sthl parts for my day aswell as shaft oil and kreme kit and got hit by some ladies runaway tire. ;D It could have been worse, I could be dead and not typing now.

You can change the oil in the pumpkin with 80/90W gear oil; the driveshaft should be cleaned thoroughly and greased better. Use lots of grease.
 
Thanks for the pumpkin pics. So I checked the oil and it was a clear amber color so I didn't change it. I did go ahead and remove the back wheel, mainly for practice. Though I was actually there to check the swing arm up and down smooth action and for side to side free play. Everything was good. Now its a mother to get that wheel off and sort of a pita to get it back on. Also yesterday I clean the original paint from the tank and put some u-pol etching primer on it. On my days off I added two curved pieces of sheet metal to the frame to plug up that gap between the tank and the frame.
 
Research.... :) I plan on building a 2:1 exhaust and can't really find any info on header length vs the rest of the exhaust length. I have a kjs single carb on the bike and I believe thats adds low end power. So do I want my exhaust to do the same? Can some one break this down for me? I also would like to add a velocity stack to my bike. I've seen that a lot of people do not want these things mainly because they don't want to check the motor every 5K miles and rebuild it. I understand that completly. So would one of these filters prevent that?

http://www.cas4.com/Carburetors-Intakes/Air-Cleaners/Velocity-Stacks/carburetors-air-cleaners-wimmer-velocity-stack-filters.html
 
CBPayne said:
Research.... :) I plan on building a 2:1 exhaust and can't really find any info on header length vs the rest of the exhaust length. I have a kjs single carb on the bike and I believe thats adds low end power. So do I want my exhaust to do the same? Can some one break this down for me? I also would like to add a velocity stack to my bike. I've seen that a lot of people do not want these things mainly because they don't want to check the motor every 5K miles and rebuild it. I understand that completly. So would one of these filters prevent that?

http://www.cas4.com/Carburetors-Intakes/Air-Cleaners/Velocity-Stacks/carburetors-air-cleaners-wimmer-velocity-stack-filters.html

Starter length for any 4 stroke is 37 3/4" from the back of the valve head [ exhaust ! ] to the end of the exhaust. 1/2" either way on my race Triumph 500 GP engines was very noticeable.

re: velocity stax - load of cobblers spouted about these [ vs engine wear ] - as long as you have some means of stopping stones, grit, small boys being sucked into the engine - it's fine, just tune to suit.

Adjusting the silencer shape and size will "tune" the range you want - but we're not talking all out racing here [ are we ? ]
 
beachcomber said:
Adjusting the silencer shape and size will "tune" the range you want - but we're not talking all out racing here [ are we ? ]

ha! I wish. I guess I want mid range, best of both fast of the line and top end.
 
Re: Re: Uncommon virago cafe

CBPayne said:
ha! I wish. I guess I want mid range, best of both fast of the line and top end.

Keep in mind that pulling off an equal-length pipe front and back is going to be tough on the V-twin.
 
CBPayne said:
ha! I wish. I guess I want mid range, best of both fast of the line and top end.

Here's a trick we used with various 500 singles [ works with twins as well ].

Assuming a siamese outlet from the exhaust - simply move the "silencer" up and down the length. Not very scientific, but you could just hit the sweet spot for your application.

Silencers are a whole 'nother matter !!!!
 
Exhaust idea:

bhuitl5.jpg


From this thread (but don't mount your rear shock to the cylinder head like he did):

http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21023
 
There is big gap between the headlight and the guages. I really don't want to raise the headlight, so should I leave it alone or find a way to lower the guages or just raise the headlight?
 

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My first impulse would be to raise the headlamp. That's the easiest I'm sure. I can't tell if you have a fork brace on or not. I believe a raised lamp, plus a fender would balance out ok. Just my 2 cents.

One thing I noticed, your initial photos are sharp and clear, but lately they're out of focus and hard to see your work. Did you change your camera, or are you just shooting from the hip without a flash?
 
My phone is slowly deteriorating. Thanks for you two cents, Ill take a look with the bucket raised and the fender back on. I don't have brace on in that pick but there will be one. I'm not so sure about the fender...
 

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I would drop the gauges. It's going to be a pain in the neck but it'll look better than raising the lamp.
 
Gauge cluster
 

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