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Dry rings - never. But you do need lots of light load relatively high RPM.
Just because there are always more answers than questions.
Take the head and barrels and dowel pins to the machinist and get then to center the cutting tool on each bore and machine the squish band concentric to the bore to the width of the bore.
You have to make a special cutter to do it properly, it isn't particularly difficult but could be somewhat time consuming
I'm with XB, (up to a point. ;D )
Dry rings, oiled piston skirt, cylinder dry.
Spinning over a couple of times while starting won't cause excessive wear anywhere and 3,000 rpm blip will throw enough oil from big end to lubricate all the 'splash' area's on lower cylinder
I've tried the 'slather everything, lightly oil everything and everything in between and now go with 'dry' cylinder.
Cylinder is washed out with mineral spirit after honing to size, very poor lubricant but probably enough for kick-starting until 'splash' takes over.
Top end (cams, chain etc) gets flooded as does flywheel/big end area
We will have the squish done correctly... But this head is the guinea pig. There are many heads at Wells racing that the combustion chamber looks like Chernobyl. That is why we chose this head first. It is the best cooling and if you have ever been in Texas during July it hotter than hell in Texas for breaking in an air cooled engine but we are getting a polar wind from Canada Thursday and Friday (thanks Tim) But we will pull LUCKY into the air conditioned shed for a complete cool down after each time we heat soak.
If we are going to have issues we need to know now. We have some parts that have been sitting on the bench ready for the game. We are building plan b. 200 sleeves into a 175 cases. We have another 175 complete engine bottom end we have been prepping.
We are pulling Lucky's engine tomorrow so we can install Victorias engine. All the variables that you normally deal with on start up in a new chassis we won't have to deal with. All we have to do is install Lucky's electronic ignition and we will be ready to test and break in.
What if you have all these variables that most engines don't. You are using a head that had to be drilled out for one ear. Pistons that haven't been proven. You have pushed your cam chain to its limit. The cylinder sleeve thickness is pushed to its limit. This is really your second engine even though you have assembled and disassembled a dozen times. Do you lightly oil your ring on assembly to the piston? Wipe off the excess? But seating is crucial to the other parts of the puzzle. Just some questions running though my head....thanks guys we appreciate all the wisdom and input. This is almost as suspenseful as watching the Bachelor...
Oil in piston ring grooves is OK.
You only need a spot or two
Face of ring should be dry
As for squish, depends how irregular?
It may improve fuel air mix or it may do nothing
Irregular squish just means that the squish effect and the quench effect won't be quite as good as if the surfaces were perfect, but unless it's horrendous, it should work - just not quite as well.
Bathtub head is not so much irregular as incomplete - like two crescent shapes rather than one complete annulus.
Irregular squish just means that the squish effect and the quench effect won't be quite as good as if the surfaces were perfect, but unless it's horrendous, it should work - just not quite as well.
Bathtub head is not so much irregular as incomplete - like two crescent shapes rather than one complete annulus.
This proves that the major gains are at the valve seat. Our stock intake number with the same cam was 39 cfm and the only change we made was to serdi cut the valve and seat. 4 cfm improvement that is massive.
Talked to an engine builder today and he said he bought a GXR uncrated it at the track filled it full of oil and then broke it in doing a 3 hour endurance race...and redlined it from that point on lol
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