Zoöid Third Times a Charm CB175

Though you'd like this DIY water cooling set up http://totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=93&t=61162
Im not the only one barefoot in the workshop
 
You'll cause abnormal wear on the sleeves and pistons if you attempt water cooling in that way. If you want to convert to water cooling, you'll need to shave the fins ensure the thickness of the aluminum is equal all the way around the sleeves.
 
I assumed they ground at least some of the fins away to let the water through
But would it be bettter to grind them all off exept the top and bottom?
Is the issue hot and cold spots along the cylinder walls?
 
simo said:
I assumed they ground at least some of the fins away to let the water through
But would it be bettter to grind them all off exept the top and bottom?
Is the issue hot and cold spots along the cylinder walls?
Click to expand...

Yup. Even with the sleeves, the heat doesn't conduct evenly.
 
Would have been better to water cool head, the limiting factor is heat build up in valve heads not the cylinder.
Getting heat away from exhaust valve would really help power output.
Cooler head, cooler valves Stainless or titanium isn't the best material, even though they can take more heat before failing, they don't conduct heat to valve stem very well and rely on seat contact plus incoming charge to cool valve. It's hell of a thermal shock loading going from around 1200f to 200f in a few milliseconds (always surprised me that engines don't fail more often 8) )
 
Texasstar said:
yes the Hispeed/Akunar since it is almost identical in deck height to the stock Pistons. Also we learned on our previous builds we have about .120" to play with milling off the head/cylinder. We have a cb160 head already ported and ready for 11.3-1 compression. We are curious what it will do on they Dyno ;)
Click to expand...

You sure like heat sinks; Akunar piston ; top looks as thick as a "tuner" piston; combined with those short sleeves transfer of piston heat to the cylinder wall is a risk; oil spray to the piston underside not as effective; w/11.3:1 compression, racy fuels, protection on top of the piston, combustion chamber & valve faces probably a must have. :)

PS: If you could located ABEC 9 rated bearings for the Griz.. strength could be better & precision tolerances could be more repeatable

Cheers
 
Q said:
You sure like heat sinks; Akunar piston ; top looks as thick as a "tuner" piston; combined with those short sleeves transfer of piston heat to the cylinder wall is a risk; oil spray to the piston underside not as effective; w/11.3:1 compression, racy fuels, protection on top of the piston, combustion chamber & valve faces probably a must have. :)

PS: If you could located ABEC 9 rated bearings for the Griz.. strength could be better & precision tolerances could be more repeatable

Cheers
Click to expand...
I think we will be turning down that deck in the future!


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Q said:
You sure like heat sinks; Akunar piston ; top looks as thick as a "tuner" piston; combined with those short sleeves transfer of piston heat to the cylinder wall is a risk; oil spray to the piston underside not as effective; w/11.3:1 compression, racy fuels, protection on top of the piston, combustion chamber & valve faces probably a must have. :)

PS: If you could located ABEC 9 rated bearings for the Griz.. strength could be better & precision tolerances could be more repeatable

Cheers
Click to expand...
probably won't use a chisel but this is one of the videos that was intriguing about this lathe for us. Lol Maybe we just tell Bryan he needs to run methanol? ;) http://youtu.be/CUTnnuxxH90


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crazypj said:
That's a neat lathe, should be able to get into some real 'weird' manufactured parts now.
Personally, although 'everyone' uses QCTP I'm not a big fan of them on small lathes.
Back off the compound slide to reduce the torque 'bending' tool into work or chuck (you get tapers or 'digging in' when it happens)
Click to expand...
We have it set at 700 rpm at the moment and the knurling took puts to much pressure on the compound. We will get a c type scissor knurling tool in the future.
 
That's real scary, piston skirt can (and does) crack then flies out, safety glasses don't help much (full face helmet maybe?) ;D
Get some HSS tool blanks and grind shapes.
HSS works better on small lathes particularly when machining alu, it also gets a sharper edge than tungsten carbide
A much better way to hold pistons is to make a mandrel that locates on the machined inside of skirt and use a drawbar (some all thread) through headstock to 'pull' on gudgeon pin.
This is one I made 9~10 yrs ago when messing with GSX pistons for a low compression XS700 turbo
Piston%20holder-drawbar%201.jpg

Piston%20holder-drawbar%202.jpg


You should have a set of reversible jaws for 3 jaw chuck? swap them out (follow numbers, 1,2,3, removed as 3,2,1)
Mount bar and skim to actual diameter which means your always perfect center.
I have another one mounted on square plate to use with angle vice on milling machine but can't find it at present
 
crazypj said:
A much better way to hold pistons is to make a mandrel that locates on the machined inside of skirt and use a drawbar (some allthread) through headstock to 'pull' on gudgeon pin.
I think I have some pics of the ones I've made, I'll see if I can find them
Click to expand...
thank you Crazypj that would be great! We still need to make some soft jaws for this chuck.

Which do you prefer on cutting aluminum HSS or Carbide? Also I have seen it done where the blade is perpidicular to the piston.
 
Had to edit previous post, hadn't watched the video before posting
In my opinion, HSS is best.
HSS can get gummed with alloy, use old engine oil on a brush (it works better thanWD40 or kerosene)
 
Used a parting tool for the first time of HSS for stainless (go big or go home) We are making rear sets.
4a3f3fd47184a3799e84d67464e55be9.jpg



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As long as you keep speed and feed down, HSS works fine on stainless. I used to machine it regularly. Some grades are easier than others and cut better than leaded mild steel
 
Zoöid Third Times a Charm CB175

crazypj said:
Had to edit previous post, hadn't watched the video before posting
In my opinion, HSS is best.
HSS can get gummed with alloy, use old engine oil on a brush (it works better thanWD40 or kerosene)
Click to expand...
thanks Crazypj we will need to make one of the piston holders.


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