New Jersey sr500 tracker/scrambler

xb33bsa said:
definately put fresh fork fluid in now
when doing set-up it does help if the suspension is warm, not like just rolled out of a cold shop
so you gonna be out shakin it down, carefully, before you even really can make too much changes
you want the stuff warm so it is as compliant as can be m oving freely,helps for setting up the sag
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fresh fluid? what happened to all this OEM stuff is better? I saved the fork oil that I drained out so I could reuse it :-\ where u from xb?
 
atf is fine and in the final bit of settup you find damping is good with it then no need to spend more money on fork oil
use a turkey baster that will slide in the top to set level of fluid mark it in 1/4" inkervalls
the amount in cc's doesn't mean anything it must be set by the actual volume of air space left in the fork at full bottom with springs removed
6" is a good starting point for most of these old bikes
5-1/2" would be more progression in the trapped air,airspring effect making them harder to bottom out
conversely with less oil
make sure at 6" that when the forks are then extended completely ,that the top of the damper rod is still submerged in fluid,flashlight look in dare
 
Bearings are good bought fuses the biggest they had was 6amp for my size not 10

Foam has arrived

That oil any good? I been using she'll rotella
 

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I'll probably stick with rotella I have some left over just didn't think I could find that recommended oil but I saw it today while looking for fork oil... But they didn't have fork oil so either I'm getting it tomorrow after work or I'm using atf cause August is coming!

Washed the front wheel gonna probably paint it tonight just gotta dry it off well...
 
Did the rotor paint, some caps, and primed my rim, hopefully I get some fork oil tomorrow I think the bike store closes around the time I get out of work... Cooked some steak lit the grill and a fire ball shot out and singed my arm hair
 

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im putting it all out there! plus you d bags told me keep the tire on! why worry about getting a dry rot tire messy I got new ones and august is approaching :o

if you could see the tape job on the rotor under all the black spray you'd love that too ::) 8)
 
so prime base clear on the wheels right? make sure the paint is thin at the bead, cover good but no heavy mill... thicker chips faster.

Should of removed the tires and painted all the way to the bead, but it will last a season... maybe.
 
I left my dry rot tire on but I am sanding and polishing the bead edge of the rim to match the rear, since I need to sand it to polish I didn't waste time taping. You could do the same if the look suites, also can't chip paint that isn't there.
 
You could of at least pushed in the valve stem...... ::)


Leaving the old tire on because you're going to change it anyway is all good and well but now you have to try and not fuck up your paint whilst removing a crusty old tire and putting on the new one.
 
hillsy said:
You could of at least pushed in the valve stem...... ::)


Leaving the old tire on because you're going to change it anyway is all good and well but now you have to try and not fuck up your paint whilst removing a crusty old tire and putting on the new one.
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I cut the valve stem off, and true if you don't use protection things can get nasty ;D
 
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