Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
Lol i guess i did cheat a little. The thread is not normal as you say. I stole an adaptor off my bike pump that screws down over the valve quite a long distance and it went to a nut then a rod....it was janky and i was careful not to break the valve but it worked also adding a little pressure in the bladder helped the end plug pop out.
I received my tail light from china today and it came with a little surprise!
What may be in that little box you ask?
Why it is a leather necklace with a cross, and skull and crossbones dongle!!!!! Who over there in asia thought it would be fun to send me this little trinket? I dunno, but who cares, I am not religious but it made my day ;D
So, I went to the bar last night... Here is a pic of the local bar kitty licking it's...... business.
I also got my Pertronix 1847a ignition in the mail.
The issues are these:
The ignitor is riveted on to the plate, going to have to drill it off. The other is i believe i need to remove 2 of the magnets from the sleeve and I am unsure how to do it.
Built a spray booth in the basement. Also got some cheap wire to hang up a bunch of parts. I have a sweet respirator so i am feeling ok about the location...
Also I drilled holes in my front hub. and will file them out with a round back file.
I got another puzzle piece in the mail as well.
I have some stuff to do now! I am starting to lose my mind as the multitude of projects mount
Here I finished filing the holes and sanded them, and polished a little. but i feel as though i will need to take the final grit up a notch and polish again.
This is before much sanding occurred.
Here I am done with a little polish but the light here really accentuates the flaws.
I ended up filing the holes into little scoops to help aid air flow into the brakes. Now I need screen material to jbweld onto the backside. is there a recommended material for this? I am guessing stainless or aluminum screen. just need to find a source for this.
I would stick with aluminum (same material as the hub) unless you really want the vents to stand out and then you could use a brass screen. But depending on the color plans for the rest of the bike the brass may not look good.
I found these, got a couple but haven't used them yet
https://ventmastersstore.com/shop/open-screen-w-18-mesh-c-23_39.html
It's going to be easier than JB Weld.
I worked on the pertronix magnet sleeve. getting two of the magnets out is proving to be quite a hassle. are there any tricks to this? i don't want to demolish the sleeve too badly. as you can see the magnets only are seated in about half of the sleeve. can I cut the whole chunk out without adverse effects? what have other peoples experiences been?
On to some more fun things, priming day. letting the primer sit for a while was boring.
I mixed 8 oz primer and 8 oz catalyst and this was enough to prime most everything. I will need to make a little more as i went too heavy and sagged in a few spots and needed to rub it down with a little thinner.
filtering it into the sprayer
Here you can see the spot on the frame that sagged as it is back to metal.
and the tank i did last, had the gun just right and the primer was behaving nicely
I think it would probably be easier to just get a new one made or even make one?
You could probably make it from fiberglass tape and epoxy, wrapped around something right diameter until you get thickness you need.
Should also be stronger than the original
I will liberate those magnets if it is the last thing i do! .... finished the prime coat on the parts, forgot the top of my fork tubes but i need to rebuild the forks anyway.
It is a little misty in my basement as my coats of black go on. even with the chemical filters on my respirator i had to come up for air
I have been trying to decide what to do with my rusty muffler, I want to chop it off, but running straight pipes will (from what i've researched) cause the bike to run poorer unless the carbs are adjusted/rejetted. I don't weld so a 2-1 is tough. I was thinking i could build little pipe tip inserts that give a little back pressure, dampen the noise somewhat and disrupt harmonic reversion but it seems like a project for someone who knows what they are doing.
Problem is pipe length, you need to extend them to about level with rear axle.
Long shallow megga's work real well on 175, guess 200 won't be much different?
Maybe some 2-1/2" pipe with reducer and baffles would work?
In my opinion, fitting inserts into stock pipes isn't usually a good idea as it causes too much back pressure unless the pipes were way too large diameter in the first place
Jackpot! Finally liberated the magnets from the sleeve with some hot sparks flying from my dremel tool as I ground them out. end result.
I will clean it up a little with a utility blade before putting it on the bike.
With the muffler i have ground off the old rusty one and just have the cl header pipes. At 1.375" OD I am thinking two of these:
http://belloffroad.com/i-7654755-dynomax-41231-pipe-elbow-90-degree.html
One of these(chopped in halfish):
http://belloffroad.com/i-7654228-dynomax-41920-pipe-connector.html
To make a 2-1 after it is shaped and welded up. The 1.5 OD end of the elbow should slip over the 1.375 OD of the headers with a little wiggle room for clamping. The 1.5 OD straight bit will be used with this I hope:
http://www.supertrapp.com/product_sections/cat.asp?CatID=35
anyway, that seems like the final project so for now i'll keep puttering on everything else.
If I were you I would keep the pipes as is, maybe drill out the baffles a bit to rough up the sound or sell them and buy some after market pipes (if you can find some). Those stock pipes rock though.
Belloffroad has pretty good prices.
The inside diameter of pipes is much smaller but your plan should work well and give good flow.
You will have built in anti reversion with dual skin original head pipes 8)
Hopefully it will work as expected. the muffler project will be a fun task for later. For today I coated the final round of gloss black on everything. It took some time to sand everything after the first coat, quite a lot of nooks and crannies to get to. A wipe down with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to clean up and dust particles and i was ready to go.
Again the mist built up and I had to beat a hasty retreat.
I then drilled my pertonix ignitor off of it's plate.
Also today i wanted to prep my new chain that as cached in nasty old oil sitting in it's package for so long.
I told it to brush it's teeth and go to bed...don't forget to floss with purple power
That was round two. The first round turned into a brown sludge power.
The best price I found on the supertrapp muffler that i want is here:
http://www.heeters.com/ScooterPerformance.shtml
The muffler would end up being 140$ for the core and the body, not too shabby, and i can tune it to my desires...
Oh and I almost went steam punk with the exhaust and considered making a 2-1 with one of these!!!
http://www.jsharones.com/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=47655&idcategory=2879
I threw this idea out when I considered the weight of this solid brass thing. ;D And the angle is all wrong, i'd have to do some serious tube bending.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
also adding a little pressure in the bladder helped the end plug pop out.
