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So what is everyone's opinion about taking off the starter motor and plugging the hole. It is way more badass to kick start the thing but I am new to this stuff. I got the new pertronix ignition that will have to be set near full advance which to my understanding might make the motor kick back on me. could this little 200 bite me? or should i throw caution to the wind and go for it. 8)
Get it running right before removing starter (even if you remove all starter wiring and use a 'slave' battery for initial starting)
Practice kick starting bike until you know you can do it every time
Starter removal is pretty easy and can be done with engine in frame.
You will need to remove generator cover to get reduction gear and chain out, plus, may as well remove starter clutch at the same time.
I can supply a block off plug, or, cheap way is use freeze plug from auto parts store
Hey,
Just starting my own cb200 build and was wondering was the rearsets you bought for this build the motobits cb175 set? If so how do the linkages go for mounting? Are they fairly bolt on or will you have to modify them?
Hey Jimus, Yes The rearsets are the 175 ones from motobits which come with a set of linkage. Haven't finished the linkage yet but I didn't see any modification to the linkage needed during mockup. but i'll find out when i finalize them. The cb175 and 200 frames are nearly identical - a few odds n ends are different but same dimensions. The tabs i welded on are similar in location to where the cb175 bolt on location is. The cl pipes are handy as it is easier to fiddle with rearsets without worrying about the muffler getting in the way.
Finally got my fork tubes apart, dang smooth, no pitting down low.
I ended up having to easy-out the allen bolt at the bottom of the forks as a previous owner stripped them. Now i need to get a new set of bolts from somewhere. The hunt continues.
Another subject that has been on my mind was the standard equipment list for vermont:
Adequate tires
Horn
Headlamp
Rear number plate bracket
Tail lamp
Lenses
Only such motor fuel tanks as are regularly installed by the manufacturer
Brakes
Muffler
Motor approved with an EPA highway use certification
Rear-view mirror
So my understanding is I won't need a speedo or a tach. If I were to remove one or both or none, which would you remove?
At minimum I would have a working speedo, guessing you going slow enough can get expensive real quick if cop has issues with bikes, you have no way of fighting it
Agreed on the speedo. Cant imagine you are going to redline a cb200 so maybe do without a tach if anything. Personally I am using both a tach and my speedo on my build
Update! So I made a goal today to get the wheels laced, bearings fit, and forks rebuilt. I found allen bolts to fit the bottom of the forks and put them together with new seals and dust covers. after a few test bounces I noticed one returns a teeeeeeny bit slower than the other at the top of the extension. Is this something I can adjust to make them even? I was quite accurate to put the same amount of fork oil in both. I don't know enough about forks to understand what is causing this. being my first bike, I doubt i will notice anything on the road though. The rear wheel I had laced in a previous post was using the front spokes because I am an idiot and got the two sets mixed up. So I had to unlace the rear and lace them both. I have a plan for a truing jig I will build tomorrow. So more updates are on the way. Rolling frame here we come! ... soon...oh yea, a pic.
Maybe you have air bubbles in the forks? Did you purge the air after filling? It's sort of like bleeding brake fluid to remove air bubbles. Not sure if this the correct way, but I just filled the forks with the drain open until the fluid was draining consistently. I then filled it until the level from the top was correct. If you used this method, you can't measure the amount put in since some of it drained out. I used a long rod as a dipstick to measure the level from the top.
Leave the drain screw in, fork springs out, slide fork leg from max to min compression at least 10 times after filling with correct amount of oil.
I tend to overfill and set a level height of oil in fork (fully compressed, springs out)
I'll try your method crazypj, otherwise the cb200 manual did not state the level from the top, just fluid volume at 132cc , and no i did not bleed the forks. If someone has information on fork oil level measurement for a cb200 (or 175 is probably the same) I'd try the bleed method.
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