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Honda rarely give oil levels
I prefer to use it though, doesn't matter what forks you have, you can always set 6" from the top and test
Then, increase oil by 10mm at a time until you like the way it rides.
Small diameter forks (30~33mm) don't normally need more than 15mm height adjustment on oil level, 43mm forks can be as much as 2"
The air on top of oil acts as a secondary 'spring' as fork compresses, has no effect until last 1/3 of travel
springs out, that's why you start around 5"~6" from top with forks compressed
How much was the starter plug, doesn't seem right selling something 'unfinished'
Leave the drain screw in, fork springs out, slide fork leg from max to min compression at least 10 times after filling with correct amount of oil.
I tend to overfill and set a level height of oil in fork (fully compressed, springs out)
So here is what i've been up to. I got the wheels trued today. after building a quick stand in the basement the wheels came together easily. I got them as close as I could to center and straight as I could. My max variance was too small to measure, a bit smaller than .5mm i think. .5mm is the standard value in the honda service manual. anyway to some photos.
This is the stand I built, the paint stir sticks were my rim guides and they were adjustable (clamped em). I trued them both in 2.5 hours, and gave each spoke a good flick test to make sure that each one was tight enough. So i threw on the rubber after a struggle I came upon the using a plastic bag trick and pop! on they went. still needed to use a mega screwdriver to lever the last 1/3 of the last side.
So I bought these cheap michelin tires 2 years ago.... finally on!. I chucked one back on the stand to show you guys the setup (the tire was off the rim when I trued)
Man that was satisfying. I still haven't learned how post a quote of someones post from earlier. I search around for the answer.
he charged 36$ for it. you use the same oring that comes with the starter motor and you are supposed to install it with the case cracked and with threebond. He suggests tapping the case to add a screw on the outside but there hasn't been any blowouts with either setup. however, the 360 plugs you make PJ seem better, as it has a rim on the outside and screws to hold it in place on the inside. I wish you made wee little 200 plugs PJ (I will probably be purchasing 1-2 360 plugs off of you PJ for two CL360's I picked up for 200$ Projects for the future!
Work on the bike continues. So I have a frame "rolling" ish...
Makes me want to dive into my motor... again. This is my "new" favorite tool. It is a hand impact driver. It has many attachments and you thwack it with a hammer to drive a screw one way or the other. It was my grandfathers before he died. It is the BOSS! I have never stripped a screw using it and it gets out every screw I use it on. It is more controllable than a battery hammer drill. and again....never strips screws. I don't know how but it doesn't.
My baby...
and what does my baby do? make quick work of side covers!
MMMMM Sludge
And the valve area needs love.
The first time I went digging into the engine was just to unstick it. It was not to hard. wd40 and whacking the pistons with a wooden dowl and a rubber mallet. This time however, I am going in to clean and inspect everything... and even the daunting.... lower case! .... tomorrow
I baggied and labeled all the motor parts for easy organization.
First removing the origional stuck as F@#$ header pipes I bunged up my fins a bit
but what is THIS!? sitting to my left...
Yes motor number two whose headers came out nice and easy.... with such pretty fins.....
Blah blah blah. Here is where I am at.
I am having an issue getting the fin section where the pistons live off the lower case. Before I whine too much though I am going to check the manual to see if I am missing something other than brute force... anyway tomorrow
Did you get the bolt at the back of the cylinders?
If so, also look for a pry section/area to put a flat screwdriver in. Don't hammer the cylinder with a rubber mallet. You'll break the fins. Try a little heat from a torch or heat gun.
The base gasket is heat activated, years of heat cycling have glued it down real good
Single edge razor blade tapped into the gasket should work (split gasket in two)
Be real careful as the blades can shatter.
When one edge lift, the rest will come up reasonably easy.
Then the hard work starts getting all the gasket material off cases
I ended up using a chisel and gently tapped around the seams splitting the cylinders and the case. being careful not to mar any surfaces. So there is nothing left to dismantle.... my god what have I done. what a pile...
I now have everything ready to clean. I fear the reassembly will be a bit of a learning process though. Shop manual you haven't let me down so far(crosses fingers). need to get my hands on some ThreeBond, can one use threebond for the case and the side covers and top end? or just the case? anyway the motor seems to be in good shape all around. I will be checking measurements as I reassemble to make sure bits are still in spec. I will need to get a new snap ring and washer for the shift arm as the ring broke due to being quite corroded, so was the washer.
got a little cleaning done in my plastic bin bath of purple power
the clutch side cover looking sharp.
I also put in my stainless bolt order at "allensfasteners.com" they seem like relatively ok prices for individual sizes and randoms. they also have some interesting products that may be useful for people here.
Like : http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=9079M
aluminum/steel gas cap and bung if you make your own tanks... there are other sizes too
I also liked these http://www.allensfasteners.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=1000003
mmmmmmm stainless clamps. I am sure these things can be picked up elsewhere but I just stumbled on these...
I should get everything i need except a few random stainless things I can grab at a local place. they will be more $ per item at the store but for a bolt or two I am not worried. I also purchased several (3) tubes of 1207B Threebond, cheap too, for 13.95$ per 3oz. tube. It is the "good" stuff so i read. It has better high build properties for the gaskets that need some height. I will also pick up some 1194 for the lower case as there was no real gasket height there just a tight seal. What threebond products has everyone used? what did you like /didn't like? Does anyone have any application tips for the any of these products?
Ok so today was a "ton" of fun! I have a friend who has a friend.... who has a machine shop. We went up there and did some mods to my set of shocks that i bought from asia. Here we are making a nice face to have the screw set on. I like to call this machine drill press 5000.
then we used some of these bits. One to drill the hole. then a bit to ease the edge then line it up and tap it.
drilling
tapping
oh need a spanner to take apart the body of the shock? lets make one from scratch.
Here he is grinding a tiny metal stud some thousandths thinner to fit into the holes of the plug on the shock.
Then he stamped out a hole in some metal to fit around the rod on the shock then drilled exact holes to fit the studs pressed in. didn't need to weld em. I'll take some pics of the finished products and add some more details in a few minutes.
You'll need a little circular wedge shaped piece to fit in circlip groove (after you remove circlip)
Without it the piston ring will catch and you can't get damper rod out of body
I made peg spanner out of hex aluminium then used a big wrench on it ;D
Machine shops 8)
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I'll fashion something though. It even needs an o-ring. however it is nicely machined and so is the nose adapter. 
