1974 CB360 Fallin' Ditch Hell Ride

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Can't remember what I was looking for but I found advancer with magnetic trigger a few days ago.
It's from the Dyna that failed on Brendon's bike, didn't realiseI still had it hanging around.Probably try it with Hall Effect sensor sometime (if we don't get blown away by hurricane Matthew ;D )
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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It's red. They're really bright too. The magnifying lens gives these lights a large spread.


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xb33bsa

New Member
srsly cool bike
also srsly the brake arm i'm not saying it will fail but if i was gonna design one leaving the fail door open i would copy that
it will probably be fine as long as you keep a few micro grams of air in the brake line
but with sticky tire on pavement and you panic stomp. or just playing back it in ..............
see, i have personal experince and have seen a swingarm bent up at 90 degrees on oene side just from the bolt coming out of the stay arm and as the drum brake plate rotated it clamped on the brakes and it was on dirt
safety issue dude thats all,as soon as you put a bow in a compression member all normal thoughts of strength fly out the window
it allows initial flex, thats what leads to the failure ,well not failure continued bending ,its like it gives the energy momemtum, to try to exsplain it and the more it bends the weaker it gets
im just sayin theres no reason to have it be a weak part
you could seeze the oportuinity to make something artful AND trick looking and strong by going around both sides of the shock with an oval hoop (round was my first thoght but the shock tilts a bit during travel)or a girder section
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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xtop20A said:
you could seeze the oportuinity to make somrething artful trick looking and strong by going asround both sides of the shock with an oval hoop (round was my first thoght but the shock tilts a bit during travel)or a girder section
10-4, Cap'n. I'm with ya. Bought some round tubing for just that. I'll have to spacial order the oval jawns.


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irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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Poncho said:
With the can protection, why not rotate it around bottom side and use a smallish stay to swinger?
You read my mind. I originally had intended to run it underneath, especially with how close the shock fit in.
 

xb33bsa

New Member
good enough for king kenny
i decided i needed mine up top because intended use could include baby heads
now in this photo is something very interesting that i never knew till now !
i did know kenny worked with S&W that was his rear shock sponsor,those are s&W on the rear they were very good in the day
what i did not know was that his tt bike shown here, tt has a jump you know,i did not know he ran long travel suspension on the TT bike you can see that in the length of the rear shocks and the amount of exposed rod
the front forks are 78 or so yz forks notice the leading axle i am guessing they were shortened a bit from stock but his wheel travel is at least 7" front and back could be 8 this would give him huge advantage over the old school harleys tri and bsa that had 4-5 inches tops his ease control when landing the jump must have gained him a second or 2 per lap
 

xb33bsa

New Member
irk said:



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hey i admire your skills in getting shit done quick but here i go again
i am not making it up but the connection point has a very poor moment
the caliper has my guess and its close, 3-4 times the leverage on the hanger of stay,you welded on the
swinger than it would if it was a correct angle of moment see both kenny's lashups kr and me and view any others
see the force that the stay is trying to overcome is directly related to the path of the caliper if it was allowed to rotate with the disc
between the axle the axis of it and the center of clapper pads contact and the attachement point if you draw 2 lines it is way off 90 degrees
90 degrees is optimal when adjusting chain this angle changes a bit you just want it close to 90 and the attachement point on the clapper hangar for stay needs to be as far as practical from axle center

its like if you could drive a post in the ground with 50 ft of chain and a big fucking hook and you did the calculations and everything will hold with a bit to spare to stop the train as long as the post is center on train track but you cant have it that way so you plant the post right as close to the tracks as you can not 30 ft from the tracks if you do the train then has nearly 2to1 mechanical advantage
if you were to put a triangle gusset in front of that sweet piece you welded on, 3/32 is plenty thick ,run it full legth of the arm you welded on and forward 6" with speedholes,it look great and it could eliminate that flex which will ,lead to failure,because the way it is now it is being bent,with a past 45 degree sideways motion not pulled straight shot tension at all ,it is being more bent than pulled ,and with a high leverage ratio, the bending is happeniong,when the brakes come on
but it is just too wrong to use, everything is overloaded when it simply need not be,thats all
besides have you observed when axle is slid fr to back like for chain adjustement ?what you have effects a much greater change than it would if done like i promote
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
xb33bsa said:
hey i admire your skills in getting shit done quick but here i go again
i am not making it up but the connection point has a very poor moment
the caliper has my guess and its close, 3-4 times the leverage on the hanger of stay,you welded on the
swinger than it would if it was a correct angle of moment see both kenny's lashups kr and me and view any others
see the force that the stay is trying to overcome is directly related to the path of the caliper if it was allowed to rotate with the disc
between the axle the axis of it and the center of clapper pads contact and the attachement point if you draw 2 lines it is way off 90 degrees
90 degrees is optimal when adjusting chain this angle changes a bit you just want it close to 90 and the attachement point on the clapper hangar for stay needs to be as far as practical from axle center

its like if you could drive a post in the ground with 50 ft of chain and a big fucking hook and you did the calculations and everything will hold with a bit to spare to stop the train as long as the post is center on train track but you cant have it that way so you plant the post right as close to the tracks as you can not 30 ft from the tracks if you do the train then has nearly 2to1 mechanical advantage
if you were to put a triangle gusset in front of that sweet piece you welded on, 3/32 is plenty thick ,run it full legth of the arm you welded on and forward 6" with speedholes,it look great and it could eliminate that flex which will ,lead to failure,because the way it is now it is being bent,with a past 45 degree sideways motion not pulled straight shot tension at all ,it is being more bent than pulled ,and with a high leverage ratio, the bending is happeniong,when the brakes come on
but it is just too wrong to use, everything is overloaded when it simply need not be,thats all
besides have you observed when axle is slid fr to back like for chain adjustement ?what you have effects a much greater change than it would if done like i promote
Alright, so making sure I get ya. I have three potential hanging points highlighted. Three potential stay positions and directions marked by arrows. If I understand, the best mount and direction laid out is #1, which also means a stay of about 12 inches mounted with clevis.
 

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