1975 Honda CB360T

DBerkshire

Active Member
Whelp...I did it. And I did it all by myself. Pretty stoked to say that - even if it seems like a simple task to some...I have completely disassembled my bike and am now re-confirming the inventory I’ve marked down as needing to be replaced.

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A few days ago I read the manual, watched the common-motor video, and attempted to remove the bearings in the front hub. I’ll preface the following story by saying I was in a piss-poor mood...strike one. I drilled the peen holes and, after 20+ minutes of letting some penetrating oil sit, and another 20+ minutes of heating the hub as shown by the common-motor video, I was unable to get the retainer piece to move. I gave it some decent whacks and noticed the aluminum piece looked a little worse in the punched out area, but figured “that’s okay because I ordered a replacement.” This is probably the point where I should have walked away; I didn’t. Strike two. I re-watched the video - added some more oil - let it soak - heated the hub and tried again. After another 30 minutes of trying to get the retainer piece to move, I decided I didn’t give a single flying F, and let loose. Strike 3. I beat the tar out of retainer piece until it was beyond mangled. Needless to say, I’ll be sourcing a new front hub as well as a retainer tool for proper removal going forward. I’m only 90% irritated at myself for being childish and destroying the hub when, with a clear head, I probably could have completed the removal. Lesson learned.

Other than that fiasco I don’t have many updates. I still need to build my little bench. I’ve gotten a few more motor parts in. I cleaned the crankcase area a bit just to assess the condition and I’m happy to see a lot of the rust that appeared to be caked in there is just petrified mud. One bummer, other than the hub, is that the underside of my frame has some damage. I’ll have to investigate repairing, or having it, repaired. I continue to research daily and assess my plan. I don’t have a timeline per se, but I’m shooting to have the bike completed - and running properly - by my birthday next March. We’ll see how that works out funding wise as I do need to budget for a couple of travel related expenses.

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That’s all for now.
Happy Building!
 

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ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
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Nice start! Welcome to Team 360. There's lots of good info for you here.
 

ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
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Only one year? Why the big hurry?

Yep, one year is downright speedy! I've come to the conclusion that I've become an Ent; my build is moving along very briskly... in Entish terms.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
I quickly figured out that - unless you have loads of money - it takes time to put them back together if you’re replacing stuff, haha; Shits expensive!

I’m curious, what would you guys do about the hole in the frame? It’s on the bottom of the frame which you can kind of see in the first image. Do I get it repaired or find a new donor

Also, thanks Jimbonaut. I have a degree in photography so, even when photographing something simple, I try to make it look nice.

Happy Building!
 

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
I've never done a 360, but the spot indicates internal rust that may have thined tthe whole bottom tube. I'd look for a donor unless you have significant welding skills because there may be a lot of cutting back to find good metal.
 

ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
DTT SUPPORTER
DTT BOTM WINNER
Yes, what he ^ said: Looks like internal rust-through. One thing about it that concerns me is that if it was sitting in storage on the side stand that rust is on the high side, it makes me wonder what's on the low side? My opinion, FWIW, is that unless you are a welder yourself or have a good friend who is, a 360 probably isn't worth putting the time and effort into doing proper repairs on the frame. I guess I'd consider working on the rest of the build; clean up the engine, perhaps do a 378cc upgrade, clean up the wheels/spokes/hubs/bearings rebuild the forks, etc. While that's going on keep your eyes open for another 360 for a doner. That, hopefully, would give you, as a minimum, a more solid frame and a tank that isn't dented.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
This isn't uncommon. It's the cradle behind the engine mounts, so the engine itself is strengthening the frame down there. I doubt the frame is hugely compromised, unless it's like that throughout. It absolutely needs repaired, but just because water settled there doesn't mean it settled anywhere else. The frame isn't a contiguous reservoir. I've had two frames that rusted through on the side stand side, and one I figured it out when the bike quit holding itself up. Check the rest of the frame, but you don't need a donor quite yet, except to buy the section of frame that needs repaired. That section of tubing is removable on CB650 frames, so it's not a major strength section.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
The rust is not ok the same side as the aide stand. If you look at the first photo it is on the part of the frame furthest from my shoes, which would make it the right side of the frame when right side up. Not sure if that changes anyone’s opinion on if it is repairable or if I should go the donor frame route. For now, I’ll focus on fixing the issue with the sheared bolt in the forks, getting a replacement hub and putting in the new bearings - front and rear - as well as the engine rebuild. Should keep me busy for a month or two.
 

ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
DTT SUPPORTER
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The rust is not ok the same side as the aide stand. If you look at the first photo it is on the part of the frame furthest from my shoes, which would make it the right side of the frame when right side up. Not sure if that changes anyone’s opinion on if it is repairable or if I should go the donor frame route. For now, I’ll focus on fixing the issue with the sheared bolt in the forks, getting a replacement hub and putting in the new bearings - front and rear - as well as the engine rebuild. Should keep me busy for a month or two.

Yeah, can see where the rust is. Me, personally? I wouldn't run this frame regardless of which side the rust is. As I said above, if I could weld or had a good buddy with skills who could I'd consider trying to fix it. It probably could be fixed, but for how much $$$ to someone who may or may not know what they are doing in the weld shop down the street? If it were something remarkable or uncommon I'd be more likely to consider it, but a 360? Not likely. If it were mine I'd keep eyes open for another frame and keep chipping away at the rest of the bits n pieces. Not sure where you are located, but have you looked at the DTT classifieds? There's a DTT member in MN selling a good looking project 360 that's pretty well along for $300.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
You're all horrible influences. I now own a second CB360. I bought the one listed in the DTT Classifieds. Someone pray for me. I'mma need it. LOL.
 

ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
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Hmmm, don't spoze that seller wants to pay a commission...

Good luck w/ your purchase and your continuing build. You should have yourself lots of options now!
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
If you end up with two titled frames and don't want both, you can get monies for one of the titles and neck. I for one, would be a taker.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
If you end up with two titled frames and don't want both, you can get monies for one of the titles and neck. I for one, would be a taker.

I have a bill of sale on both. I’m switching to using the ‘74 CB frame I just acquired.Gary said the engine was just rebuilt a few years ago but I have some mild concerns about it as - in the exhaust openings- I found what appeared to be some form of nut shell. Not sure if they got further down into the engine. I also skimmed his past posts titled “pickle” I believe and he mentioned previously some issues with something else on the engine. Unsure if that was correct so I’ll have to do some investigating this weekend. I realized the back tire size on my original donor is a 110/90 so I guess that decision has been made for me. Ha. I’ll just need to confirm if the rear rim on the new donor is still a 1.85 and that can become my front rim as it has been powder coated and has stainless steel spikes already.

My biggest issue that I’ll have to think about this weekend is that I now have an entire rebuild kit from Common Motor as well as the fork kit and bearing kit - all of which I may no longer need/use. Unless I decide to build a second bike. Lots of thoughts to process and parts to go through. Again.

C’est la vie. I’ll figure it out. Here are a few photos of the new donor.

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Happy Building!
 

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ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
DTT SUPPORTER
DTT BOTM WINNER
To me it looks like you did pretty well. I think you've got lots of opportunities there and what you don't keep you should be able to sell.
 

OJ

Been Around the Block
That looks pretty good to me. Check compression, take a peek under the cylinder head cover and if OK, adjust tappets and ignition and see if you can get it to run.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
I'll hopefully be able to spend some time on the new donor this weekend. Until then, I realized I had a few parts and questions I never looked in to or found answers for. Hoping some of your veterans will/can weigh in.

Question 1: What are my options for getting rid of the heavy/ugly brake arm? Are rearsets with a linkage the only option?

Question 2: Since I have upgraded the wiring harness and all of the other good parts, what should I do about the fuses? I'm assuming sticking with the old ones is not ideal.

Question 3: Can I use this chain? I read on common-motor that the bike takes a 520 94 link.
https://www.mfgsupply.com/520bl-oring-94-w1.html

There's other questions I have but I can't remember them all off the top of my head, so I'll save those for later.

Happy Building!
 

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