1975 Honda CB360T

OJ

Been Around the Block
Sprockets and chain both need to be 520.

You could get a fusebox that takes spade fuses as those fuses are more common these days. Inline fuse holders would also do the trick, but be less "clean" than a box.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
Sprockets and chain both need to be 520.

You could get a fusebox that takes spade fuses as those fuses are more common these days. Inline fuse holders would also do the trick, but be less "clean" than a box.
Hmm, I’m not sure if the sprocket was changed on this so I’ll have to check that. Thanks for bringing that to my attention!

I’ll have to look into space fuses as well. That’s new terminology for me. I want to make sure I’m giving each part it’s due diligence before making any replacements. So far I don’t think I’m doing half bad but it’s getting trickier the further down my list I get. My brains on information overload.

I haven’t started going on the second frame but I did build my work bench/table. Overall, I’m pretty happy with it considering I’ve never built anything that wasn’t pre-cut and drilled before. I just need to sand and seal it to protect from splinters and grime.


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ridesolo

“Kto ne riskuet, ne pyot champanskoye.”
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Looking good, Dana. In one of your earlier pictures I think I saw an original-looking front sprocket so that one is, for sure, not a 520. That nice looking rear wheel has a new looking sprocket, possible that it's a 520. Did you get any of the parts receipts w/ the second bike you bought? Anyway, you've got lots of good looking bits n pieces now, You should be able to come up w/ a nice ride.
 
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irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
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Stock CB360 is a 530 chain. 520 is a common swap for nearly all motorcycles of the era, so it's not out of the realm of normal to get a bike that's been converted to 520. As far as the rear brake, I've done a conversion from the bar to cable. It's not hard to do with the ability to weld (or possible thread and tap) a couple of brackets on.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
Looking good, Dana. In one of your earlier pictures I think I saw an original-looking front sprocket so that one is, for sure, not a 529. That nice looking rear wheel has a new looking sprocket, possible that it's a 520. Did you get any of the parts receipts w/ the second bike you bought? Anyway, you've got lots of good looking bits n pieces now, You should be able to come up w/ a nice ride.

I went back to the Common Motor page and apparently it says it's a 530 chain. Not sure why I thought it said 520. I also read through the previous owners posts here on DTT and he said he decided to go with a 530 chain and sprockets, so I guess that answers that question.

I sadly did not get any receipts. I didn't even think to ask. The previous owner has had this bike sitting untouched for a handful of years and a move, so I'm not even sure if he'd still have them.

It sounds like rear sets may be the most direct course for replacing the brake arm but I'm not opposed to figuring out a conversion. IRK, do you have a photograph posted anywhere - or can you post one - of what your conversion looks like by chance?

As always, thanks for the help. You are all awesome!
Happy Building!
 
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irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
Rear brake here. If I knew then what I know now, I would make some different hardware choices, but it worked well:

CB360_rear_brake.jpg
 

cb360tj

Cb360t
Just read your whole build so far. Great job! I have had mine for around 6 years now and this is round 3 getting it started again hahah. Damn I hope this time I finish it.
Following along!
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
Hey all!

Been a bit busy these last few weeks and haven't had the motivation to do a lot of work or post about it. Anyways, I finally found a small amount of motivation and have done the following in the last few weeks...

Although it wasn't really needed, because I had the parts and wanted the experience, I replaced the friction plates on motor number 2. They honestly just showed some normal surface rust and very minor wear. If I decide to rebuild the engine from my first bike, I may clean them up for repurposing; I imagine the friction plates one engine 1 show more wear and tear given the mileage.

The second thing I did was install my new stator from Sparck Moto. The stator was a little thicker than the original and required some modification to the casing. I purchased a Dremel a month or so ago and picked up some metal cutting disks this week. I removed three of the tabs per Sparcks instructions for fitment. It's not the prettiest job you'll ever see but I'm happy that I was able to do it all on my own. I just need to fish the neutral wire through the current wire tubing to clean it up a little, and add a bead to the end of the exposed copper before attaching the neutral wire back to the post.

After the clutch and the stator project, I received and installed my new ignition from Charlie's. I'm honestly not 1,000% certain I did it right, as the instructions left a little to be desired - even with the video - but I'm hopeful that it'll be okay.

I've got the hex bolts and screws installed on the top and bottom end that are part of the rebuild kit from Common Motor and added the starter motor back on vs. the plug the previous owner installed. My next steps for the motor are to get some new nuts and bolts to replace the old ones. I think I'm eventually going to get the engine painted but - for now - I'm focused on getting all my parts installed and getting the bike running. Then I'll break it all down for painting as many have suggested.

Next steps are to bring the current tires from both bikes to the local shop to have the tires removed. I've removed the front tires from both frames by cutting them, but both rear tires are new so I'll need help getting them off. Once removed, I'll be able to check out the seals and bearings for frame two. I'll order the rims next, get them laced and balanced, and then add tires. At least one of the two new tires is the size I want so that helps.

As is expected, I've hit a few road blocks based on my knowledge/skillset as well as tools. Luckily, a few friends have offered to help on those so that's nice. I currently have a stripped oil bolt that I can't get off one engine two (so no oil changes if I can't replace it) and the hex bolts for the clip-ons that frame two came with are also stripped. The forks have already been rebuilt by the previous owner but it's been about five years so I plan on changing the oil. The other reason I'll need to someday be able to remove the clip-ons is so that I can get the forks blasted and then painted. The previous owner painted them but I'm looking to go for black vs. the grey/silver.

Anyways, hopefully I'll be able to keep a slightly steady pace as I feel I have and keep working on ordering parts as I need them. I'm appreciate of the input you've all provided along with the answers to questions, even if they're redundant. Honestly, sometimes it's easier to ask a question vs. reading a 50 page posting and getting overwhelmed.

That's all for now...happy building!
 

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DBerkshire

Active Member
Hi guys,

No work updates on the bike, yet. I've pretty much done all I can with engine 2 until I fire it up and sync/time everything. I'm looking for OEM replacements of some of the bolts just for looks, but that's not anything worth posting.

So now, I'm looking to order a front rim, possible a rear as well, this weekend. I have a quick question though. Because tire options are a bit limited, are shouldered rims required? I'm looking to order directly from Buchanan at this point just to make life easy. I'm too hesitant to try places like Ebay for new rims because I fear I might buy the wrong ones. Maybe someday, if I do another bike, I'll be more adventurous...ha.

Once I have the rims, I'll work obviously be able to move on to the next step of getting those installed and then working my way up the bike. I think I'm going to save the detabbing until after I get everything assembled and running. Just as I am likely to order the wrong parts, I'm likely to cut off something I need.

Thanks as always!
Dana
 

Rider52

Over 1,000 Posts
I got front/rear rims and spokes from from 4n1 for my CL360.
 

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ex119x

Been Around the Block
Buchanans is very good and quite expensive. They are knowledgeable people with good customer service. I have used them for custom stuff on my racebikes. They are expensive and there are other options I use for street stuff.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
I got front/rear rims and spokes from from 4n1 for my CL360.

I considered the 4-into-1's but they were out of stock and I'm at the point of wanting to move on to rims/tires before working upwards on the remaining sections. Not sure if that's the best build route, but it's what makes most sense to me. Ground up and all. Anyone have thoughts on that?

Nice work bench!

Thanks. I'm pretty happy with it. It's a little flimsy in the center if I really lean on either side but I knew that would probably happen with the way I braced the top panel. Other than that, I painted it with a wood sealer and it was white when I thought it was clear...so the table looks a bit dirty. Meh. If I ever use it after this initial build, I'll maybe paint the table another color. I've also got down the padded mats you put in your silverware drawers to give a little cushion and grip, which has been a nice add-on.

Buchanans is very good and quite expensive. They are knowledgeable people with good customer service. I have used them for custom stuff on my racebikes. They are expensive and there are other options I use for street stuff.

Yeah, I noticed they were 2-3x's more than other brands, but some of the brands previously suggested are out-of-stock or don't confirm fitment. One site even barred me from ordering without provided the correct year/make/model and CB360 wasn't an option.

I can't remember of the top of my head, was it you who said you've used the Mike XS rims? I checked the web site and everything is labeled as Yamaha...but I'm assuming there may be some cross model fitments?
 

ex119x

Been Around the Block
I have not used Mikes XS rims. I usually find a cheap rim on e-bay or off something else I have around. The basics of getting a rim that will work is to get the right number of spokes, the CB360 is 36 spokes. The other common number is 40. So, if you get a 36 hole, 1.85 width, 18" rim for the front and a 36 hole 2.15" width, 18" rim for the rear you would be good to go. You can either use your old spokes if they are in good shape or order new sets of CB360 spoke sets. The other factor which can potentially come into play is the angle of the spokes to match a drum or disc brake wheel. I doubt that will be an issue on the 360 with Mikes rims. Hopefully somebody with experience in this particular parts combination will speak up.

Where Buchanans is really good is in putting together non stock wheels.
 

Rider52

Over 1,000 Posts
PJ used XS rims. I believe they were Mikes. I tried lacing a stock XS 18" rear rim to the 360 rear hub and it was off....way off as in I could only get one side in the spoke holes. The other side was 1" from being able to get the spokes in the holes. I was using stock 360 spokes. The XS rim laced up nicely to a stock XS rear hub, so either the spokes were junk or the stock XS rim will not lace to the 360 hub without special spokes. My 360 is a budget build so I went with the 4n1. The spokes are cad plated. If you decide to go with Buchanan, call them and tell them what you are trying to do. I've had good luck with them in the past. If this 360 was a keeper, I would use them.
 

irk miller

You've been mostly-dead all day.
DTT BOTM WINNER
I use Buchanan for most of my custom wheels where I'm lacing a hub and rim of different manufacture. Every now and then, you get lucky (stock CB550 rear wheel hub and spokes to GL1000 front rim). If it's the stock rim and matching hub, I buy the kits from wherever. Though my experience with the Taiwan kits have bee mixed. My MikesXS spoke kits for my XS seem to be pretty decent so far.
 

DBerkshire

Active Member
I'm just looking for the best fitment/installation without worrying about returns or re-selling if they don't work. I knew the CB would be a fickle creature, but darnit, I want what I want. LOL. Some web sites are showing that the rims are the fitment I am looking for - 18 x 1.85 and 18 x 2.15 - 36 spoke, but denote that they are "rear" rims. Would that be an issue?

A quick google search showed me these rims, which are slightly better priced that Buchanan's...
https://www.amazon.com/Excel-FDS406-Silver-1-85-Takasago/dp/B000GZJXQ6
https://sprocketcenter.com/excel-takasago-7000-series-rear-rim-honda-18-x-2-15.html
 

ex119x

Been Around the Block
Rear rims would have the spoke holes angled for a larger diameter hub than a front rim angled for a smaller disc brake hub.
 

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