1977 BMW R100/7 Sarcoplasmic Cow Hellride
- Thread starter irk miller
- Start date
Got you covered, Doc.
Started building the subframe for my seat.
Started building the subframe for my seat.
Rear fenders are sort of a struggle for me lately. I have a hard time finding exactly what I want on the market. So far, a cut up and reshaped XS fender is doing the job. I’ve shaped it to go over the frame hoop and to tuck neatly into the seat. I’ll tie it all into the frame better once I sort out how I want it to look under the seat. I also need to make some adjustments to the seat pan for a cleaner fit and finish.
There will be side covers and such, so it shouldn’t seem that way when it gets further along. I love the pipes where they are.
I added in a subframe base, which hopefully helps tie the visuals together.
Subframe complete, minus any mountings.
A small update. The process has begun to swap to spoke rims. I’m running a Borrani rim in the rear and in good “run what ya brung” form, I wrapped it in a Shinko 700 Trail Master. I have a line on an Akront front rim to match shoulders. I’ll either run a BMW or GL1000 front hub.
I’m also mocking up a potential gauge with the light I want to run. I was expecting to run the stock gauges, but they are just hugemongous and didn’t look right with this size light. You also see a handlebar swap to a more upright Renthal.
Up next will be a post of me trying to restore the handlebar switches that were hacked up in a previous life.
I’m also mocking up a potential gauge with the light I want to run. I was expecting to run the stock gauges, but they are just hugemongous and didn’t look right with this size light. You also see a handlebar swap to a more upright Renthal.
Up next will be a post of me trying to restore the handlebar switches that were hacked up in a previous life.
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Making my own air box delete, since the market doesn’t have one that I like. I want the full profile, while the rest round out the “hump” at the back of the box. Plus, they can cost as much as $400.
Step 1: Make a plaster mold of the two halves, then cast them in solid plaster.
Step 1: Make a plaster mold of the two halves, then cast them in solid plaster.
Molds done for the first set of masters. I’ll fill these with plaster, then carve them down to be the final masters.
One side carved down. One side not.
And the master put together to match the seams:
I’ll likely fill the crossover openings, but holding steady for now.
And the master put together to match the seams:
I’ll likely fill the crossover openings, but holding steady for now.
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Waiting on some graphite powder to make a mold for the air box. In the meantime, let’s build some spoke wheels. Running high shoulder rims, with a Borrani back and Akront front.
In the pic is the rear wheel complete, but the front is a 17” wheel from another build to test fit as a roller until I get the 19” rim. The TL front end with GL hub, YZF600r rotors and GS500 Tokico calipers is my favorite way to do a USD swap on vintage rides.
To make it happen, I need the hub to fit a 17mm axle. Stock GL is 15mm. I bore the hub to 47mm, since the world doesn’t make 42mm x 17mm x 14mm bearings. They do makes lots with a 47mm OD. I also have to bore the bearing retainer tube to 17mm ID and flatten out the tabs in the clips to manage the new bore.
In the pic is the rear wheel complete, but the front is a 17” wheel from another build to test fit as a roller until I get the 19” rim. The TL front end with GL hub, YZF600r rotors and GS500 Tokico calipers is my favorite way to do a USD swap on vintage rides.
To make it happen, I need the hub to fit a 17mm axle. Stock GL is 15mm. I bore the hub to 47mm, since the world doesn’t make 42mm x 17mm x 14mm bearings. They do makes lots with a 47mm OD. I also have to bore the bearing retainer tube to 17mm ID and flatten out the tabs in the clips to manage the new bore.
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