1981 GS750E (GSX750E) Dented Cafe Racer ( Currently doing GSX-R USD conversion)

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
With more than 4 inches of trail, you should be stable, even when the front dives and back lifts under hard braking. Won't need a stabilizer.
 

LKS

Been Around the Block
With more than 4 inches of trail, you should be stable, even when the front dives and back lifts under hard braking. Won't need a stabilizer.
Great! When I planned the fork-swap, I was afraid of getting too much trail and a slow turning bike. But this might ok then?
 
Last edited:

pidjones

Over 1,000 Posts
Great! When I planned the fork-swap, I was afraid of getting too much trail and a slow turning bike. But this might ok then?
Well, it won't turn like a sport bike, but it should be Ok. That is in the ballpark of many standards.
 

LKS

Been Around the Block
Well, it won't turn like a sport bike, but it should be Ok. That is in the ballpark of many standards.

That's what I hoped for :) I'm not sure how well the Koni shocks perform. They're Koni 7610 with five way rebound adjustments (now sold as Ikon 7610) that I god for free because they needed a rebuild. If they're too bad, I'll rather buy some longer shocks and shave a little off on rake and trail that way.
 

LKS

Been Around the Block
Not much happening.. but I got some stuff in the mail; A HEL brake line for the rear (they were on sale for some models) and an original (I hope, it says "made in Japan" on the sleeve) clutch cable. The clutch is extremely hard to pull, and I don't want to search for other faults before I've eliminated the cable as the source.

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Jimbonaut

Over 1,000 Posts
DTT SUPPORTER
The clutch on my KLR was so stiff it gave me an rsi in my left elbow. Since then I've replaced the lever and the cable and it made a huge difference, especially the cable.

One other thing I did was to lengthen the clutch actuator arm on the clutch assembly itself. This gives move pull on the clutch itself but requires less effort to do so (something to do with physics!) and it really helped. I wonder if you could do something similar? Here's the before -

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and the (pre-grinder and paint) after - with a ¼" piece of steel added in to add length -

OUQakPRh.jpg
 

LKS

Been Around the Block
The clutch on my KLR was so stiff it gave me an rsi in my left elbow. Since then I've replaced the lever and the cable and it made a huge difference, especially the cable.

One other thing I did was to lengthen the clutch actuator arm on the clutch assembly itself. This gives move pull on the clutch itself but requires less effort to do so (something to do with physics!) and it really helped. I wonder if you could do something similar?

That's smart :) The arm on the GS is already pretty long and I have a new lever.

I don't know how hard the clutch should be to pull, but it's so hard that i have problems twisting the actuator arm by hand, and I'm average strength (I guess). I've heard the clutch basket can get grooves that make the clutch stick, so if the new lever and cable don't work I'll open the clutch and check that next
 

LKS

Been Around the Block
Started to do the wiring for the controls. I'm drilling a hole in the clip-on tubes for the wires (from inside the controls) and I'm running the wires inside nylon sleeves for protection and looks. I wont bother with Weather Pack connections as the connections will be inside the headlight.
I've removed the screws from the switch-terminals and soldered on wires to make sure they don't vibrate loose. I'm aware of the opinions on soldering from earlier discussions, but my opinion is that a few soldered points aren't any problems.




 

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