$50 mod thread
- Thread starter JRK5892
- Start date
jfsebastian
New Member
Guys, love this thread.
I think my $10 solo seat qualifies.
Here is the finished result. To view the process, look at my blog. japbobbers.blogspot.com
Dont want to have 6 pics here to make any eager downloaders having to wait.
JF
I think my $10 solo seat qualifies.
Here is the finished result. To view the process, look at my blog. japbobbers.blogspot.com
Dont want to have 6 pics here to make any eager downloaders having to wait.
JF
CresentSon
Over 1,000 Posts
This is more of a product endorsement than a mod, but I tried this finish by Rustoleum. I wanted a low sheen look to my aluminum bits, and after weeks of painstaking wire brushing and sanding I gave up on getting a uniform matte finish. I didn't want to spray a flat color so I went on the prowl. Picked this up at Wal-Mart for <$4 a can. One can did my aluminum drum covers and the odds and ends. Coats even and quick. Just watch for floating debris, this shyte stays tacky as hell for 10 mins...
http://www.flecto.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=21&SBL=1
I'll post some before & after at the when I hit the wrenches today. Gives a wrinkled powder coated/hammer forged look that seems pretty tough. I already accidentally dropped the front brake cover about 4' onto wood floors 6 hrs after painting with no dents or chips, except to the Wifey's floor.... oops.
http://www.flecto.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=21&SBL=1
I'll post some before & after at the when I hit the wrenches today. Gives a wrinkled powder coated/hammer forged look that seems pretty tough. I already accidentally dropped the front brake cover about 4' onto wood floors 6 hrs after painting with no dents or chips, except to the Wifey's floor.... oops.
Herm21
Been Around the Block
Koozie Seat:
There’s obviously a lot of different materials around to use as seat cushions but I happened to have a few beer koozies layin around when I did mine, so why not! They’re water proof, they retain their form and thickness real well, and they’re like a $1.00ea if you had to buy 'em!
I used 1/8” backerboard for my base, then cut the koozies up, glued them down and just layed a bit of batting over top and wrapped the whole thing in leather. One layer of koozies is enough to keep your ass nice and comfy ;D !
There’s obviously a lot of different materials around to use as seat cushions but I happened to have a few beer koozies layin around when I did mine, so why not! They’re water proof, they retain their form and thickness real well, and they’re like a $1.00ea if you had to buy 'em!
I used 1/8” backerboard for my base, then cut the koozies up, glued them down and just layed a bit of batting over top and wrapped the whole thing in leather. One layer of koozies is enough to keep your ass nice and comfy ;D !
Herm21
Been Around the Block
JRK5892 said:
Not sure I can explain how I sewed it up in any way that sounds easy, but trust me it’s really a lot easier than I’ll make it sound. I did it by hand with needle and commercial grade thread. It was the first time for me and was all trial and error, but I only had to do it twice
. I started with a large enough piece of leather to wrap the whole seat. traced an outline of the backerboard on the underside of the leather and cut it about 1” inch longer than the outline. Then took that piece, and the excess that was cut from that piece put the good sides of the leather back to back and started stitching them together following the original trace line I made. You’ll need to adjust the “excess” piece a bit as you stitch because the excess will be bigger by an inch and won’t match up (it’s the extra inch you cut). When done, trim some of that 1” off and turn it right side out and it should fit your seat cushion perfectly. Then I just glued the underside of the leather to the underside of backerboard with some silicone adhesive, and I got a seat cushion!
Herm21
Been Around the Block
Bouncer said:
Yeah, the actual seat itself is fiberglass. The build thread link is below.
The 3 bolts you see sticking out of the backerboard are lag bolts, I “dremmelled” squares in the backerboard so they fit nice and tight and JB welded them in. The bolts then run through the fiberglass seat and cross braces on the frame and are secured by wing nuts. I also drilled some holes at the end of the bolts for some hitch pins….this setup lets me remove the entire seat in about 30 seconds.
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=3568.msg28698#msg28698
jason teamshralp
Been Around the Block
saw this in another thread. It's a tip for cutting threaded rod.
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip092900sn.html
http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip092900sn.html
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Lightweight corrosion proof battery box!
So it's starting to warm up a bit here in sunny Portland and I've been getting my regular bikes ready to ride, yesterday I was concentrating on my SuperIII when I noticed that the battery box is glass filled nylon ie: really light and durable and won't rust.
It's hung from the sides with four bolts and has provisions on the bottom for another bracket. I can see where this layout would allow for all kinds of creative mountings and since it's not shiny and completely encases the battery it'll hide well in the open.
I wanted one for my 450/500T hybrid and called around to a few local wreckers and there are lots available since they used the same box in just about everything since '89. Average price has been $12.50 out the door.
Not bad in my humble opinion.
So it's starting to warm up a bit here in sunny Portland and I've been getting my regular bikes ready to ride, yesterday I was concentrating on my SuperIII when I noticed that the battery box is glass filled nylon ie: really light and durable and won't rust.
It's hung from the sides with four bolts and has provisions on the bottom for another bracket. I can see where this layout would allow for all kinds of creative mountings and since it's not shiny and completely encases the battery it'll hide well in the open.
I wanted one for my 450/500T hybrid and called around to a few local wreckers and there are lots available since they used the same box in just about everything since '89. Average price has been $12.50 out the door.
Not bad in my humble opinion.
loudest143
Insert sense of humor here---->
I had a chinese scooter before I bought my big boy bike, and I found it had numerous flaws in design from the factory. I needed to lose the stock airbox, and add a unifilter. When I did that, my oil breather hose, which was attached to the stock airbox needed to go somewhere. There was more than a tablespoon of oil gathered in the bottom of the stock box, so I didn't feel comfortable with routing the breather hose out the bottom of the bike to possibly add some 'slick' to the rear tire. It was squirrely enough to ride on 13's without adding any slidey slippery stuff on the tires!
My solution was to find something that would easily fit into the space and would be easy to empty if necessary. It also had to breathe, as that was the whole point to an OIL BREATHER. I didn't really have any ideas, other than it should be something easy to work with, so aluminum was at the top of the list. Actually free and already designed was at the top of the list, but no such luck. Something with some creative style was also in order. Space is extremely limited, as this fits under the seat, and over the cylinder head, and behind the carb. Tight fit!
Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you my less than $50 dollar mod: Martini Shaker Oil Breather.
2- 4" hose clamps, local auto store.
1- 10" aluminum flat stock, laying around the garage. It attaches to stock bolt holes, then is riveted to hose clamps.
1- threaded brake hose fitting. I drilled out the ball, and bolted the fitting into the bottom of the shaker with a washer on each side for more strengh.
1- brushed aluminum martini shaker, $8.00 at Target. (department store here in the US for you out of towners. )
The breather is easily removed from the clamps, and can be emptied into your dirty oil container and re-installed. I leave the top cap off, as the breather is supposed to be vented, and the martini strainer is just the thing for that. The liquid that gathers inside never got up high enough to splash out.
Enjoy.
Below is a pic of the scoot to give you some idea of what I was working with last winter.
loudest143
*who says drinking and driving doesn't mix? ;D
My solution was to find something that would easily fit into the space and would be easy to empty if necessary. It also had to breathe, as that was the whole point to an OIL BREATHER. I didn't really have any ideas, other than it should be something easy to work with, so aluminum was at the top of the list. Actually free and already designed was at the top of the list, but no such luck. Something with some creative style was also in order. Space is extremely limited, as this fits under the seat, and over the cylinder head, and behind the carb. Tight fit!
Ladies and Gentlemen, I present to you my less than $50 dollar mod: Martini Shaker Oil Breather.
2- 4" hose clamps, local auto store.
1- 10" aluminum flat stock, laying around the garage. It attaches to stock bolt holes, then is riveted to hose clamps.
1- threaded brake hose fitting. I drilled out the ball, and bolted the fitting into the bottom of the shaker with a washer on each side for more strengh.
1- brushed aluminum martini shaker, $8.00 at Target. (department store here in the US for you out of towners.
)The breather is easily removed from the clamps, and can be emptied into your dirty oil container and re-installed. I leave the top cap off, as the breather is supposed to be vented, and the martini strainer is just the thing for that. The liquid that gathers inside never got up high enough to splash out.
Enjoy.
Below is a pic of the scoot to give you some idea of what I was working with last winter.
loudest143
*who says drinking and driving doesn't mix? ;D
boomshakalaka
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: Cheap ass soda blaster
fuck yeah man! I was going to pay to get a bunch of engine parts blasted. Then a friend of a friend said I could use his sand blaster, but that has yet to materialize, and Im getting impatient. Ive been considering putting together my own setup.. but now Im thinking Ill just do this. The only question I have though is, what compressor should I get? It says you dont need a "big" one, but I have no clue what they mean by that.
edit: just emailed the guy who did the write up. Ill post here with any response I get from him.
troybilt said:
fuck yeah man! I was going to pay to get a bunch of engine parts blasted. Then a friend of a friend said I could use his sand blaster, but that has yet to materialize, and Im getting impatient. Ive been considering putting together my own setup.. but now Im thinking Ill just do this. The only question I have though is, what compressor should I get? It says you dont need a "big" one, but I have no clue what they mean by that.
edit: just emailed the guy who did the write up. Ill post here with any response I get from him.
